Sony SA-W303 Subwoofer

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Put a 50Hz sine through it (or better yet, a play it at tuning frequency to avoid excursion problems) at full power. Measure the voltage across the speaker, and measure it's impedance. From there, you can work out power.

I've found 50W to be quite loud through my sub, so I don't understand why some people need kilowatts to get their subs working properly.

unlucky me...no Testing Tools...ill Just Gestimate.

the Sony AMP is better than alot of Commercial Low wattage ones ive heard before...it never Distorted Obnoxiously like the ones from Durabrand and such did...

but i Already ****** the Amp Up...dont know if ill be able to fix it...im Better off just Grabbing the Dayton 70 Watter.
 

a Dayton Classic Woofer doesnt seem like a Sub Driver....id Go For a Tangband Instead...i Put a Daliquist Buyout Sub in mine...probably lost a little output since the Woofer is 12 Ohms.

The SA-W303 Enclosure isnt Terribly Good either...tuned Rather High...and Chuffs Excessively Around the Tuning Frequency.

i never did measure the Ohm Rating on the Original Woofer...but the Amp did get Rather Warm Driving my 8" Tangband (which is 4 Ohms)
 
Peerless 835004 SDS 6-1/2" Woofer 4 Ohm

Specifications: *Power handling: 40 watts RMS/110 watts max *VCdia: 1" *Le: 1.0 mH *Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.5 ohms *Frequency response: 38-6,000 Hz *Fs: 37.8 Hz *SPL: 89.5 dB 1W/1m *Vas: 1.38 cu. ft. *Qms: 5.35 *Qes: 0.27 *Qts: 0.26 *Xmax: 3 mm *Dimensions: A: 7.15" (6.45" across flats), B: 5.75", C: 3".

Tang Band W6-1139SI 6-1/2" Subwoofer

Specifications: Power Handling: 50 watts RMS/100 watts max *VCdia: 1-1/2" *Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.6 ohms *Frequency range: 38-800 Hz *Fs: 38 Hz *SPL: 83 dB 1W/1m *Vas: 0.416 cu. ft. *Qms: 2.65 *Qes: 0.47 *Qts: 0.40 *Xmax 13 mm *Dimensions: Overall diameter 7", Cutout diameter 5-1/2", Depth 3-5/8".
 
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