The Amp on the SA-W303 Might Not Even allow 19 Hz to Pass....mine seemed to have a Mild High Pass Filter on it..Frequencies Below 30 Hz had less Power than those Above 40 Hz.
also SnoopKatt the Sub Went Together Fairly Easily...to Access the Driver you'll need to Remove the Front Plastic Panel which is Secured With Glue.....i Just Pried mine off....it Broke a Few of the Pegs that Fit in the Glue Filled Holes in the Particle Board Enclosure...but enough were intact To Fit Well...i dont think a 7" Driver would Fit as the Original Driver is 6 1/2".
also SnoopKatt the Sub Went Together Fairly Easily...to Access the Driver you'll need to Remove the Front Plastic Panel which is Secured With Glue.....i Just Pried mine off....it Broke a Few of the Pegs that Fit in the Glue Filled Holes in the Particle Board Enclosure...but enough were intact To Fit Well...i dont think a 7" Driver would Fit as the Original Driver is 6 1/2".
So I'm torn between the Peerless one and the Silver Flute 6.5" one that Cokewithlime posted. The other ones were 7", and I'm going to take form109's word that those won't fit. Depth-wise, they are both under 3.7" (although the SF one cuts it very very close). I'm leaning more towards the SF one just because it's a lot nicer, but for $10 that Peerless one is still a great woofer. Either way, I feel like I'd end up buying the SF one eventually, even if the Peerless one worked, because I'd want something higher quality. I probably won't order for a week or two because I need to finish up another project, but I'll still think about it.
By the way, have a lot of people done this (put better drivers in pre-made speakers)? Seems like going around and buying old speakers for their cabinets may not be a bad idea!
By the way, have a lot of people done this (put better drivers in pre-made speakers)? Seems like going around and buying old speakers for their cabinets may not be a bad idea!
Just to throw in a curve, I personally wouldn't purchase anything until you take apart your current sub and measure the driver and cutout for it - I've done enough house renovations over the years that sometimes making assumptions in advance about measurements and what might work are usually wrong - lol
This is why I did mention the 7" sub choices - my guess is that there is probably enough "slop" in the current cutout for the 6.5" current driver for a 7" to fit without any modifications
Alright, I got the front grille off pretty easily (I pried just a little at each side of the grille, and it came off neatly), and I took out the two screws, but I don't see how to get off that plastic cover without completely destroying it. Even though I took out the two screws, it's still in there very tightly. How did you get that plastic piece off?
Here's a pic, so far it looks identical to form109's:
Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/e80504101953j
snakehips, I'd like to just use the amp, but I'd rather keep the enclosure just for simplicity's sake. Thanks for the amp info; I was very curious as to what they were using.
Here's a pic, so far it looks identical to form109's:
Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/e80504101953j
snakehips, I'd like to just use the amp, but I'd rather keep the enclosure just for simplicity's sake. Thanks for the amp info; I was very curious as to what they were using.
"Dual reflex bandpass box"
6th order bandpass springs to mind. The Subwoofer DIY Page - 6th Order Bandpass Systems
The small plastic grid in front of the driver does not count as a port. It's more for driver protection from physical damage. It's a standard vented box.
.... Perhaps I missed something?
6th order bandpass springs to mind. The Subwoofer DIY Page - 6th Order Bandpass Systems
The small plastic grid in front of the driver does not count as a port. It's more for driver protection from physical damage. It's a standard vented box.
.... Perhaps I missed something?
1/3 of the cover is restricting radiation. Look how far out the grill is from the woofer. If the enclosure was a standard vented box, then the grilll would be simple like on my Sony HTCT100.
Think of the SAW having a shallow front port and very long rear port. BP2's can have a 1 to 5 front & rear chamber ratio.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Think of the SAW having a shallow front port and very long rear port. BP2's can have a 1 to 5 front & rear chamber ratio.
EBP is the efficiency bandwidth product. It is used as a guide to determine whether a speaker will work better in a ported or sealed enclosure. It is defined as Fs/Qes.
Speaker Box Calculations
Speaker Box Calculations
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I'd accept it as a slot-loaded driver, although the slot area to Sd ratio isn't enough to cause any major change to the airflow. Therefore, I still stand by it being a standard vented box. A small plastic grid does not constitute a port.
1/3 of the driver appears to be restricted. A head-on photo would show that much less than that has restricted airflow.
Chris
1/3 of the driver appears to be restricted. A head-on photo would show that much less than that has restricted airflow.
Chris
The Grille is Simply to Protect the Woofer...and make the Box Look a
little Nicer.....it doesnt Contribute anything Signifigant to be a Part of the Enclosure...once Again...this is Simply a Bass Reflex (Vented) Box.
The Amp on the Sub is Perfectly Fine for Multimedia.....the Way the Amp is made might make it difficult to Replace with anything other than a Replacement Stock...since the Amp is a Metal Plate that Screws into a Plastic Casing Glued into the Particle Board Enclosure.
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i Simply Pried it off with a Phillips Flathead Screwdriver....since the Pegs on the Grille that Fit into the Holes on the Plastic Front Panel are Glued in some Pegs will Loosen up...others Broke.
i Pried the Plastic Front Panel off too....it also had Pegs Molded into the Plastic...these Pegs Fit into Recessed Holes Drilled in the Particle Board...also held in by some sort of Glue....Prying once Again loosened some Pegs and Broke Others....Try not to Pry too Hard as the Panel could Crack..or break all the Pegs off....if you Break only a Few its Alright.
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