I'm kicking around ideas for a relay board for the amp controls instead of having all the external wiring and relays. Added rail disconnect mosfets would be simple enough to trigger from the power relay feed. I'm trying to figure out what route to go with power relays for the main transformer. I use some automotive 240V rated T90 relays that would do this task. I'm undecided weather to use them of a solid state approach.
I also have a question about European mains supply. With respect to ground, is there a 240VAC and 0V feed or do they use two 120V feeds?
I also have a question about European mains supply. With respect to ground, is there a 240VAC and 0V feed or do they use two 120V feeds?
I sacrificed usability in favor of "visual design" minimalism, using one red led for everything
Sure, more leds/colors are easier to see across the room. That's the great benefit of this design - enhancement flexibility
Whats wrong with "fancy" .... the UNO is SO easy to use.
I have decided -
- standby is dim green
- startup is bright green
- speakers on is bright yellow
-faults are combinations of flashing red/green.
(I can't get rid of the green and still have "standby"
)Colors are far more "final" than brightnesses (as indicators), especially with these higher efficiency new LED's ...
. the 4.7K "standby" resistor actually might have to
be 10K-15K to actually get a dim green.
All this with one extra digital port and one external 270R on the LED cable.
And , I tested my "summer mode" script - where a thermal fault won't shut down
..... but switch "tubes" to turn on a fan - it works so good - VERY pleased !
PS- 6V triggers offset , about 60C thermal (w/mje340) , the 2 "ice-storm" brownouts triggered
the AC , and 2.1+V gets the overload.
(tested all - below) That's the better control module !
AC "creep" considerations,neon AC indicator - totally overbuilt - but it's controlling a 1KVA... better safe than
sorry !
OS
Attachments
Whats wrong with "fancy" .... the UNO is SO easy to use.
I have decided -
- standby is dim green
- startup is bright green
- speakers on is bright yellow
-faults are combinations of flashing red/green.
(I can't get rid of the green and still have "standby"
Colors are far more "final" than brightnesses (as indicators), especially with these higher efficiency new LED's ...
. the 4.7K "standby" resistor actually might have to
be 10K-15K to actually get a dim green.
All this with one extra digital port and one external 270R on the LED cable.
And , I tested my "summer mode" script - where a thermal fault won't shut down
..... but switch "tubes" to turn on a fan - it works so good - VERY pleased !
PS- 6V triggers offset , about 60C thermal (w/mje340) , the 2 "ice-storm" brownouts triggered
the AC , and 2.1+V gets the overload.
(tested all - below) That's the better control module !
neon AC indicator - totally overbuilt - but it's controlling a 1KVA... better safe than
sorry !
OS
I was getting a DC fault at 2V. A slow rise to around 1V would trip it too. Maybe the change of transistors is an issue?.
I haven't looked to far into the coding because I don't want to mess up a good thing but If the LED dimming is done with PWM you may be able to just shorten the pulse widths.
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Jeff , any further integration would sacrifice serviceability. and adaptability.
On this thought , you could integrate everything (bridge/caps/fet switches-whole PS )
into a unit dedicated to the "normal" DIYA amp (60-100W -vssa).
but for subs and monster amps - separate is better and more flexible.
OS
I think the power sections are all basically the same. They all have a mains transformer, dual rails and speaker outputs to switch. The only difference is the number of channels.
I'm thinking of a separate power board stacked under the control board. I think serviceability might actually be easier because of the fewer wires to disconnect. We need to definitly hook you up with a better solder sucker though.
Actually , this is good for the "symasui"
.6V won't hurt no speaker.
That's 6V instant - 3+ after a few seconds will also trip it
(I tested both "behaviors")
Using those mpsa42's instead of 5551's might of changed the trigger level.
How the heck can you "mess up" the coding ?
Worse case the wrong relay or a led won't flash.
You can always go back to a working script , as well.
Or , forget a "curly" in the main loop - board does NOTHING
still won't ruin it !
OS
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Actually , this is good for the "symasui"
6V won't hurt no speaker.
That's 6V instant - 3+ after a few seconds will also trip it
(I tested both "behaviors")
Using those mpsa42's instead of 5551's might of changed the trigger level.
How the heck can you "mess up" the coding ?
Worse case the wrong relay or a led won't flash.
You can always go back to a working script , as well.
Or , forget a "curly" in the main loop - board does NOTHING
sill won't ruin it !
OS
I'm very good at screwing up coding.I can modify hardware easily but coding always turns into a disaster. I haven't had the time to learn enough about it.
Same as "reverse engineering" hardware.
I RE'ed Val's coding and added my previous knowledge of
java to it. The comments really helped , as well.
Arduino site has thousands of analog / digital scripts to play
with , too.
Cool stuff - I can think of a 1000 uses for this thing !!
OS
Yes they are cool. My main problem with them is if I start messing with coding the day disappears. I loose track of time. I've learned to just dump code on and go or I won't get anything else accomplished.
I actually started experimenting with them when my backstop on my shear packed it in. 5 years later I'm still using a tape messure.
Check out Fritzing sometime. Loads of examples there too.
ready to rock ! ... almost.
Just a few more questions -
One for Jeff -
On the solid state relay boards -
Could you give a close-up photo so I can see how you
position the "adapter pins" . I'm going to have to shave a centimeter
off the tops of the PCB's to fit my case. Maybe a little
more as the big foil is the actual speaker voltage ??
Any other hints/tips on them would be appreciated.
For Valery - On scripting
I can't seem to get any "action" (operation) out of D12/D13.
D4/11 work perfect and I just substitute "HeatingLED2"=D11 plus add
digitalwrites to run my bicolor led.
I want to make the bi-color work but free up the heating , in case someone
would want my cool setup for a "valve job"
Do D12/13 digital pins require different commands ?? - Arduino says they are
digital but not full PWM like D2-11. I know D13 flashes the built in UNO/nano
led.
Can I post the fine tuned 2 led script , or is it a secret ?
PS - (below) is bright yellow during softstart/pre-speaker run.
I have dim green ,> yellow ,> bright green ,> + red/orange for alarms (super fancy -
still one led + inline 270R hooked to "heating").
Any 1A 12V walwart trafo salvaged can be used for this board ,as well.
OS
Just a few more questions -
One for Jeff -
On the solid state relay boards -
Could you give a close-up photo so I can see how you
position the "adapter pins" . I'm going to have to shave a centimeter
off the tops of the PCB's to fit my case. Maybe a little
more as the big foil is the actual speaker voltage ??
Any other hints/tips on them would be appreciated.
For Valery - On scripting
I can't seem to get any "action" (operation) out of D12/D13.
D4/11 work perfect and I just substitute "HeatingLED2"=D11 plus add
digitalwrites to run my bicolor led.
I want to make the bi-color work but free up the heating , in case someone
would want my cool setup for a "valve job"
Do D12/13 digital pins require different commands ?? - Arduino says they are
digital but not full PWM like D2-11. I know D13 flashes the built in UNO/nano
led.
Can I post the fine tuned 2 led script , or is it a secret ?
PS - (below) is bright yellow during softstart/pre-speaker run.
I have dim green ,> yellow ,> bright green ,> + red/orange for alarms (super fancy -
still one led + inline 270R hooked to "heating").
Any 1A 12V walwart trafo salvaged can be used for this board ,as well.
OS
Attachments
You can cut the relay down to the top of the mosfet pad. I can only get a picture of one side of the relay board. You will need to drill the pads on the relay to 1/16" to fit the header pins through. Polarity on the 12V pins doesn't matter but you will need to chop the excess pin off the top of the lower one or it will touch the upper one. You likely see by now why I want to mount them on the main board. These are a PITA.
Attachments
Just a few more questions -
One for Jeff -
On the solid state relay boards -
Could you give a close-up photo so I can see how you
position the "adapter pins" . I'm going to have to shave a centimeter
off the tops of the PCB's to fit my case. Maybe a little
more as the big foil is the actual speaker voltage ??
Any other hints/tips on them would be appreciated.
For Valery - On scripting
I can't seem to get any "action" (operation) out of D12/D13.
D4/11 work perfect and I just substitute "HeatingLED2"=D11 plus add
digitalwrites to run my bicolor led.
I want to make the bi-color work but free up the heating , in case someone
would want my cool setup for a "valve job"
Do D12/13 digital pins require different commands ?? - Arduino says they are
digital but not full PWM like D2-11. I know D13 flashes the built in UNO/nano
led.
Can I post the fine tuned 2 led script , or is it a secret ?
PS - (below) is bright yellow during softstart/pre-speaker run.
I have dim green ,> yellow ,> bright green ,> + red/orange for alarms (super fancy -
still one led + inline 270R hooked to "heating").
Any 1A 12V walwart trafo salvaged can be used for this board ,as well.
OS
Hi OS,
With regards to D12/D13 - there's no difference with the other digital outputs (except PWM, that you have mentioned). Did you initialize them in "Setup" section? Like this (example for pin "SpeakerOn"):
pinMode(SpeakersOn, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(SpeakersOn, LOW);
With regards to publishing the script - I'm ok with publishing some fragments, but I don't like to publish the whole firmware for "security" reasons. I'm also no problem with sending the firmware to community members personally. Just you know, if somebody will want to "steal" the design and sell the "counterfeit" boards on e-bay, the firmware is the key component - the board is a "brick" without it
Cheers,
Valery
Hi OS,
With regards to D12/D13 - there's no difference with the other digital outputs (except PWM, that you have mentioned). Did you initialize them in "Setup" section? Like this (example for pin "SpeakerOn"):
pinMode(SpeakersOn, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(SpeakersOn, LOW);
With regards to publishing the script - I'm ok with publishing some fragments, but I don't like to publish the whole firmware for "security" reasons. I'm also no problem with sending the firmware to community members personally. Just you know, if somebody will want to "steal" the design and sell the "counterfeit" boards on e-bay, the firmware is the key component - the board is a "brick" without it
Cheers,
Valery
Yup - I could not wait. "Absorbed" the whole arduino site last night , all functions/
variables/structures are "in" me now.
not only did I get D12/13 going , but made second "mini loop" to auto reset after
thermal ( to test out my new-found knowledge
).This thing REALLY rocks now. The designed LED just did level changes which
were hardly noticable , even the flashes had just the low/high 12 and 7 V. Not
much "contrast"
that why I did what I did.Now I have ...
-Red - standby
-Green /w red flashes on inrush
-Green - good
- and Red flashes for alarms.
"Tubes" are restored.
Just 1 common anode dual LED with a 470R resistor on the anode.
The original LED is a onboard indicator for the main /standby start sequence.
(script file is 3.5K now )
Just rename any LED function to the appropriate choice of 3 outputs.
I respect keeping the script from counterfeiters/ and other vermin. That's why I asked.
(below) Is the "deadly" power supply running safely on the control board.
OS
Attachments
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Just use the drop-in industrial SS relays. (below) 12V opto triggered 50A device.
Used these to fire up indoor growroom halogens
(tomato's).Keep anything like this OFF the control board. Below relay mounts to a plate
(aluminum) to dissipate that max rating.
PS -Have 200A versions of these relays (3 to a heatsink) controlling the whole freezer section
of a supermarket. They refurbished , I took what was in the e- waste bin - they worked !!
Edit - our 30A contact relays just see the inrush through the resistor and the second one
just feeds an additional 5V rise in cap voltage. Neither relay is seeing any real surge.
once the relay is closed .... don't matter. Val's "overlap" has both relays feeding the
caps after "inrush" , as well.
OS
Attachments
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Just use the drop-in industrial SS relays. (below) 12V opto triggered 50A device.
Used these to fire up indoor growroom halogens
Keep anything like this OFF the control board. Below relay mounts to a plate
(aluminum) to dissipate that max rating.
PS -Have 200A versions of these relays (3 to a heatsink) controlling the whole freezer section
of a supermarket. They refurbished , I took what was in the e- waste bin - they worked !!
Edit - our 30A contact relays just see the inrush through the resistor and the second one
just feeds an additional 5V rise in cap voltage. Neither relay is seeing any real surge.
once the relay is closed .... don't matter. Val's "overlap" has both relays feeding the
caps after "inrush" , as well.
OS
Those modules are expensive! I've got some 25 amp triacs and driver modules coming to experiment with. I think I'm going to design a power module to run the transformer and disconnect the rails on shutdown. It'll be easy enough to interface with the existing control board. While I'm at it I'll put the solid state speaker relays directly onto the control board too. With some shorter caps the control board will be considerably smaller then too.
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