An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I've found a glue gun with the clear glue sticks works well. The clear glue stays a little softer and dampens vibration well. I glue any larger parts in place.
Party relays !!
Running 200W peaks makes these SS relays increase only 5C .... that's all.
Used an oral thermometer whilest cranking the snot out of the slewmasters.
(below ) is my "hackjob" on the relay PCB's ... reduced foil makes very
little difference.
Tried the MJE340 thermals , needed to use an external heat source - can't
get the amps warm at all , even at 200W !
I feel "safe" now to shake the house. I ran without relays for a while -
ABSOLUTELY no sound quality changes - SS relays are quite "transparent".
Audiophools who think 2 MOSFETS will "sour the sound" .... what a joke !
OS
Running 200W peaks makes these SS relays increase only 5C .... that's all.
Used an oral thermometer whilest cranking the snot out of the slewmasters.
(below ) is my "hackjob" on the relay PCB's ... reduced foil makes very
little difference.
Tried the MJE340 thermals , needed to use an external heat source - can't
get the amps warm at all , even at 200W !
I feel "safe" now to shake the house. I ran without relays for a while -
ABSOLUTELY no sound quality changes - SS relays are quite "transparent".
Audiophools who think 2 MOSFETS will "sour the sound" .... what a joke !
OS
Attachments
thanks Valery.. out of stock in RS
is'nt it will damage the input with large negative voltage?
Hi Jeff, it's actually not expected to go off completely
Dimeed light indicates standby. As soon as soft-start sequence is initiated, the led goes a bit brighter. As soon at the amp is fully on and the speakera are connected, the led goes full brightness.
R1 goes to ground.
Hi Jeff, it's actually not expected to go off completely
Dimeed light indicates standby. As soon as soft-start sequence is initiated, the led goes a bit brighter. As soon at the amp is fully on and the speakera are connected, the led goes full brightness.
R1 goes to ground.
Okay. I've hooked a tiny LED up this time. It must just be brighter. I've never noticed it staying dim before.
What , Jeff .... the script I sent you don't work ?
Val's indicator was alright , but my kids leave the amp on and
I just wanted a very verbose indicator of status. (where the LED will actually
turn off- or change color).
I had the same issue with the brightness contrast levels , a much higher value
R22 worked , but this also depends on the type/color (Vf) of LED.
OS
Val's indicator was alright , but my kids leave the amp on and
I just wanted a very verbose indicator of status. (where the LED will actually
turn off- or change color).
I had the same issue with the brightness contrast levels , a much higher value
R22 worked , but this also depends on the type/color (Vf) of LED.
OS
I just had a mje340 out on leads to torch up with a bic lighter to test for operation.
I left the mje in circuit during operation (listening tests).
Absolutely no unexpected (false) triggering or other errata with this board. All 3
of these control boards are "right on". I do not compliment often , but these
are pro controllers.
I wish I was your neighbor
, you most likely have a few small "housekeeping issues" with both the control board and slewmaster wiring.
Mine is 110% !!
I you posted VERY detailed photo's of all your wiring/layout , I'm sure me or
Val could spot one of these "housekeeping issues".
PS - I actually have my control board ground isolated from the chassis. I might
run one more 20ga green wire to my main chassis star - but .... Nothing is presently
wrong - should I bother ??
OS
I just had a mje340 out on leads to torch up with a bic lighter to test for operation.
I left the mje in circuit during operation (listening tests).
Absolutely no unexpected (false) triggering or other errata with this board. All 3
of these control boards are "right on". I do not compliment often , but these
are pro controllers.
I wish I was your neighbor
you most likely have a few small "housekeeping issues" with both the control board and slewmaster wiring.
Mine is 110% !!
I you posted VERY detailed photo's of all your wiring/layout , I'm sure me or
Val could spot one of these "housekeeping issues".
PS - I actually have my control board ground isolated from the chassis. I might
run one more 20ga green wire to my main chassis star - but .... Nothing is presently
wrong - should I bother ??
OS
I could use a hand with the housekeeping but I don't think I'd want a neighbour with a 250 watt Slewmonster.
Don't chassis ground your protection board. There would be no advantage to it and it would just bypass your ground loop breaker and chassis ground your audio ground.
I've got a little burn in time on the amp now. I'm going to take it apart and recheck VAS current and voltages. I'll take a couple pictures of my hook up while it's apart.
Will this take 100 volt rails and what is the max current?
Looks good too.
No bouncing relays here or on the output either...
PERFECT
Will this take 100 volt rails and what is the max current?
Looks good too.
No bouncing relays here or on the output either...
For 100V rails it will require adjustment of a couple of resistors in the DC offset sensor.
Relays will most likely be required in the main trafo AC circuit, providing its soft-start, unless we come-up with the relay-free solution for that as well
Relay free solution is in the works. All the parts are waiting. Just need some time to breadboard.For 100V rails it will require adjustment of a couple of resistors in the DC offset sensor.
Relays will most likely be required in the main trafo AC circuit, providing its soft-start, unless we come-up with the relay-free solution for that as well
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