Just keep it the same form factor .... I hated tearing my amp apart for the second time.
I have not heard it for over a week now
.PS - less AC wiring and wire runs - I can't imagine any quieter than the "dead quiet"
I had before - MUCH roomier inside now !
OS
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We used to use those Crydom SSR, many moons ago, they failed alot, don't seem to like compressors, switched back to the old contactor
Pretty easy to make your own SS relay, go over kill on the triac ratings, a 40A triac (BTA40-700B), MOC30xx trigger and a snubber.
I think that MOSFETs have much less losses than triacs do, but could be wrong.
OS, where are your green patch boots, I can see your toes!! That PS looks rather heavy
Yeah , I did drop a 400VA on my toes ! Ouuchhh ! "That PS" would break them.
PS - listening to "that PS" now - WOW ! SS relays and amps run nearly at
the same temperature whether they idle or I am shaking the house !
(I finally finished it !!) Alan Parsons never sounded this "effortless"
.OS
below 1 = simple
Below 2 = with protections (refined).
You could put 2 complete relays on a 25mm X 50-70mm small pcb with quick
connects. I would not integrate this on the main controller itself.
PS - don't put the holes near the edge - "fat" AC wiring + connects have to
be pushed on hard
.Edit - I still see nothing wrong with those 2 automotive 30A conventional relays -
they really are being used quite "lightly" , even with my big "deadly supply".
Those "real" relays are cheap and easily serviced/sourced - should last forever.
OS
Attachments
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below 1 = simple
Below 2 = with protections (refined).
You could put 2 complete relays on a 25mm X 50-70mm small pcb with quick
connects. I would not integrate this on the main controller itself.
PS - don't put the holes near the edge - "fat" AC wiring + connects have to
be pushed on hard
OS
That's the circuit I've been looking at. This will be a stand alone module. I might make it stackable under the control board and swap the control terminal blocks for board interconnects. I'd like to use heavy barrier strip. I hate those stake on quick connects. On board in rush resistor as well. Power in from mains - power out to transformer. No external wire mess.
I don't mind mechanical relays. T90s would work good here. I just want to build some SS relays just for the experience. I mainly just want to remove some clutter in my amps with a power module.As I stated - what's wrong with the standard relays ?
I'm "horsing" my amp now (abuse in the greatest degree).
There is just no strain on anything ??
Relay cycle life is anywhere from 50K-1M. would the kids
really turn it on/off that many times ?
OS
Size and coil power dissipation are the only negatives.
I see few negatives for ckt #1 other than cost and Pd for the triac. Do not really see what ckt #2 buys you, other than more parts or the old way to do before MOC3xxx were introduced. Before that they used trigger transformers.
I have a Intel SDK 8085, hex keypad, what a PITA to program (hand coding) without even an assembler (luxury at that time)
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The other possible issue with mechanical relays would be contact bounce from vibration. It could be a problem in a plate amp. It's not usually an issue in automotive relays though.
Circuit 2 is to protect against false firing of the triac due to dirty mains.(This is why I do projects like this. I learn lots fast while designing)
Circuit 2 is to protect against false firing of the triac due to dirty mains.(This is why I do projects like this. I learn lots fast while designing)
"Clutter" ?? I must admit the larger control board made for a spread out clutter
on my first attempt.
This one is nice and compact , all the AC is right at the 1KVA trafo.
I actually have the whole "deadly supply" /control board in under 1/2 sq. ft.
Layout and my modular approach actually gives me room for bigger
caps now - I really don't think I need them
Way too much power !!But for a sub ... SS might be the way - I'm worried by what I KNOW goes
on inside with my 10' tangband .... I'm going to pot the amp caps , threadlock
all the interconnects (aquaseal urethane "goop")
Edit - T90 ? oh ... microwave relay - yes .. common parts !
OS
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I'm accustomed to seeing vibration damage in trucks with millions of kilometers on them so I likely worry too much about it. I've seen wires chewed through by the ties and loom that are supposed to protect them. Older through hole circuit boards and early SMT wave solder boards used to crack solder joints and spit components out. It's amazing where a screw or nut can end up when they rattle out. They don't always fall down. They can easily fly upwards from bumps or other moving parts. These sub amps definitely need a lot of thought."Clutter" ?? I must admit the larger control board made for a spread out clutter
on my first attempt.
This one is nice and compact , all the AC is right at the 1KVA trafo.
I actually have the whole "deadly supply" /control board in under 1/2 sq. ft.
Layout and my modular approach actually gives me room for bigger
caps now - I really don't think I need them
But for a sub ... SS might be the way - I'm worried by what I KNOW goes
on inside with my 10' tangband .... I'm going to pot the amp caps , threadlock
all the interconnects (aquaseal urethane "goop")
OS
Hi,
just for your information and consideration. I successfully used the Omron SSR Mouser part number 653-G3NE-220TL-USDC5 to turn ON/OFF my amplifier with no problems. Just as a warning there are two types of SSR one with zero crossing and the non zero crossing. I used the non zero crossing since I used my own zero crossing circuit to turn ON/OFF the amplifier. Just required one output port. At the beginning I used the discrete components one using the MOC3020 with the Mouser triac Part Number 511-BTA25-700B but then decided why invent the wheel when you can buy it already built in a black module so I decided to buy the Omron black module.
Attached it is a picture showing both SSR the black module from Mouser and the discrete component one.
just for your information and consideration. I successfully used the Omron SSR Mouser part number 653-G3NE-220TL-USDC5 to turn ON/OFF my amplifier with no problems. Just as a warning there are two types of SSR one with zero crossing and the non zero crossing. I used the non zero crossing since I used my own zero crossing circuit to turn ON/OFF the amplifier. Just required one output port. At the beginning I used the discrete components one using the MOC3020 with the Mouser triac Part Number 511-BTA25-700B but then decided why invent the wheel when you can buy it already built in a black module so I decided to buy the Omron black module.
Attached it is a picture showing both SSR the black module from Mouser and the discrete component one.
Attachments
I use my own design PIC based DC protect and power up delay timer.
I use the fact that a PIC input changes from zero to one at 2 volts.
This means I don't need a A2D or any comparators to monitor the speaker voltage. I just use a potential divide before the PIC input pins.
I use one pin for positive going signal and another pin for negative going signals.
If the PIC sees DC for more than 500mS it turns off the relay.
I use the fact that a PIC input changes from zero to one at 2 volts.
This means I don't need a A2D or any comparators to monitor the speaker voltage. I just use a potential divide before the PIC input pins.
I use one pin for positive going signal and another pin for negative going signals.
If the PIC sees DC for more than 500mS it turns off the relay.
Yes, a lot of thought (and testing/trial and error). I have been running my sub with the amp externally.
Down where the trafo goes (bottom), standing waves in the enclosure keep
vibration to a minimum. Near the top where the port is has unreal vibration.
I might wrap that poor little wolverine in foam neoprene (it is nearest to the top).
Control PCB (and relays) are down near the trafo (at the bottom).
OS
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