Gainclone building contest details (from BrianGT group order)

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BrianGT

BrianGT

Retired diyAudio Moderator
Joined 2002
chipamp.com
#1
For those who participated in the group order for the gainclone kits/pcbs. The last of the orders were shipped out last tuesday (3/30). Everyone should receive their boards/kits soon, so here are the details to the contest that I am organizing:

Here is the link to the current gallery:
http://www.briangt.com/gallery/nigc

I urge everyone to start finishing the projects soon and begin mailing me pictures. I will be giving out a free pcb set for the first 20 people to e-mail me finished pictures of their amplfiers built with the kits. Pictures must show an amplifier in a finished state, showing the completed unit, and a view of the insides. [between 2 and 12 pictures accepted] Please size pictures down to 800x600 (so that my e-mail box doesn't get flooded with 20meg attachments) and e-mail them to me.

(offer limited to 1 free pcb set per person participating in the group order)

Rafal 's amplifier is a good example of the bare minimum:
http://www.briangt.com/gallery/nigc-rafal
but the more pictures, the better!

Once I have a large number of entries, and an updated webpage, I will award a more substantial prize for what I feel is the best unit in the gallery (sorry Peter, your amps don't count, since they look too good, and might discourage competition)

--
Brian
 
#5
the insulated version. i'm rrunning it on 22v secondaries (which gives about 32 V dc)

thinking again, it might not only be the caps & other stuff that need burning in. for all signal wiring i'm using silver wire. WHen i made my most recent interlinks i used the same silver wire. Only after a day or two of fulltime playing did the bass kick in.

I really like the sound of this stuff, 0,4 mm thick. Bass goes nice and deep and highs are really clear (but still smooth).

The insides of the case have gotten a little messy and i still have to put some copper foil on the edges for shielding but otherwise it's finished.

/matti
 
#6
I think the "building design contest" is a good idea to get people to show off their creative designs!

Peter, your design looks AMAZING! I want to make something similar for my next GC case... Could you explain a bit on a few things?

1) Where did you get the screws? If they are aviation screws, where can I get regular torx screws? 🙂
2) How did you get the screws to stay in the wood? They appear to have machine screw threading...
3) What type of wood is that?

Thanks!
 
#7
It is Zebrawood. After tapping the holes (in wood), I applied a lot of crazy glue to harden the surface and did the tapping again. It is pretty strong now.

The screws were actually bought locally, surplus. There are numerous mail order outlets dealing with those type of fasteners, and Home Depot carries limited assortment of those as well😉
 
#11
Hey, no fair! I speak for all newbies. This Daniel guy is a ringer, straight up. He'll take the proverbial "1st" and "3rd" thus demonstrating his avarice competitive nature.

PS: I scored some MAJOR-ULTRA-COOL black anodized heat sinks today. NO CHARGE my brothas! Nada - zip -bupkis.
 
#13
chipco3434 said:
Hey, no fair! I speak for all newbies. This Daniel guy is a ringer, straight up. He'll take the proverbial "1st" and "3rd" thus demonstrating his avarice competitive nature.

PS: I scored some MAJOR-ULTRA-COOL black anodized heat sinks today. NO CHARGE my brothas! Nada - zip -bupkis.
Click to expand...

Maybe I will have to have more than one prize category 🙂

--
Brian
 
#16
Peter Daniel said:
It is Zebrawood. After tapping the holes (in wood), I applied a lot of crazy glue to harden the surface and did the tapping again. It is pretty strong now.

The screws were actually bought locally, surplus. There are numerous mail order outlets dealing with those type of fasteners, and Home Depot carries limited assortment of those as well😉
Click to expand...

Crazy Glue is an anaerobic, the screw/wood joint has to be pretty tight to begin with. (Loctite manufacturers a number of adhesives for just this purpose - I remember one of the people from Caterpillar tractor talking about the specialty anaerobics they used to hold the fasteners "better".)

I have used marine epoxy for exactly this process -- drill the hole slightly larger, fill with marine epoxy, set, redrill with the appropriate tool and tap.
 
#17
I have used marine epoxy for exactly this process -- drill the hole slightly larger, fill with marine epoxy, set, redrill with the appropriate tool and tap.
Click to expand...

Very good!...especially with the addition of "high density" and "barrier coat" fillers to the mix. That's WEST System stuff. The other cool product usage is a mixture of their aluminum powder with graphite powder to make very nice rebuilds for rudder posts.

Isn't this ?
www.sailinganarchy.com
Click to expand...
 
#18
jackinnj said:


Crazy Glue is an anaerobic, the screw/wood joint has to be pretty tight to begin with. (Loctite manufacturers a number of adhesives for just this purpose - I remember one of the people from Caterpillar tractor talking about the specialty anaerobics they used to hold the fasteners "better".)

I have used marine epoxy for exactly this process -- drill the hole slightly larger, fill with marine epoxy, set, redrill with the appropriate tool and tap.
Click to expand...


A good trick with "Crazy Glue" (any cyano-type stuff) if you need a reinforced - or much "harder"- joint is to either dust the joint (or create a fillet) with plain old baking soda and then add a few drops of the glue. Ends up hard as a rock!

Alternatively, they do make versions of the glue which are more like a gell with some additional gap-filling properties.
 
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