They look sharp. Are those some Tang Band titanium drivers? I still have a couple older ones with neodynium magnets.
That was the "easiest" way to mount them. I started this project "for fun" a few years ago and had many thoughts, but ran into some issues like the bamboo is maybe about 1/4" thick and I never considered that I should have mount the tweeters horizontally - things much ended that way.
Even if the sound reasonable, I never considered them to become state of the art Ultra High Fidelity speakers, but somethings I could hang on a wall in my bedroom or in the kitchen...
-is that DIY though?
(..looks like Duo Mezzo XD's, at least in the foreground, couldn't guess what the loudspeaker is in the background of the first pic..)
BTW, REALLY nice clean listening room.
It is DIY ScottG.....
In the back are previous speakers ....also DIY....Altec 414/811/806/ Fostex FT96.
I made it both for a client.
Alot of work and time to do that right.
Like Duo Mezzo I use active on Beyma woofers and passive on Davis.
In the back are previous speakers ....also DIY....Altec 414/811/806/ Fostex FT96.
I made it both for a client.
Alot of work and time to do that right.
Like Duo Mezzo I use active on Beyma woofers and passive on Davis.
Attachments
It is DIY ScottG.....
Astounding work! I almost got fooled.. well I was fooled into thinking "hey, that is not diy"
^ LOL!
Yeah, it's exceedingly impressive work.
When looking at it - it looked MOSTLY like the Duo.. BUT the top horn looked larger (and perhaps the entire loudspeaker looks larger); also - the base (near the feet) looked a little different.
Still, it was so close that I was having a really hard time thinking it wasn't a Duo.
Astounding "fit and finish" for anything DIY (..or really, anything at all).
Yeah, it's exceedingly impressive work.
When looking at it - it looked MOSTLY like the Duo.. BUT the top horn looked larger (and perhaps the entire loudspeaker looks larger); also - the base (near the feet) looked a little different.
Still, it was so close that I was having a really hard time thinking it wasn't a Duo.
Astounding "fit and finish" for anything DIY (..or really, anything at all).
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Active 3way : Seas 10" PHL 6.5" Scan Speak 1"
I had my Najda DSP used only as a preamp/source selector for years, now I've gone to a full active setup : Seas CA26RFX - PHL 1280 - Scan Speak R2604-8320.
Mid and tweeter are powered by IcePower 50ASX2, bass section by a Hypex plate amp. I've reused an existing 65l sub cabinet for the bass section, boxes are not already finished but all is sounding VERY GOOD IMHO. I was pleasantly surprised by the sound quality of the tweeter and the bass section consdering their price. Crossover LR2 accoustic at 250 Hz and 2100 Hz + delay on tweeter.
I had my Najda DSP used only as a preamp/source selector for years, now I've gone to a full active setup : Seas CA26RFX - PHL 1280 - Scan Speak R2604-8320.
Mid and tweeter are powered by IcePower 50ASX2, bass section by a Hypex plate amp. I've reused an existing 65l sub cabinet for the bass section, boxes are not already finished but all is sounding VERY GOOD IMHO. I was pleasantly surprised by the sound quality of the tweeter and the bass section consdering their price
. Crossover LR2 accoustic at 250 Hz and 2100 Hz + delay on tweeter.Attachments
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Joined 2009
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It is DIY ScottG.....
In the back are previous speakers ....also DIY....Altec 414/811/806/ Fostex FT96.
I made it both for a client.
Alot of work and time to do that right.
Like Duo Mezzo I use active on Beyma woofers and passive on Davis.
I have built a 2-way sealed box active speaker using Eighteen sound 10NMB420 and NSD1095N with XT1086 horn and Hypex FusionAmp FA123. The drivers are 16 Ohm versions and the box is made by professional carpenter. The build is based on a Ruutinassakka (gunpowder pouch), but I made it active, thus I named it Aktiivinassakka (active pouch). I could post full build description and details if anyone wants to read it, but I think the world is full of 10" + horn-CD already
I'm relatively new to speaker building, so here are a few points I discovered. I used an existing design from a reputable designer, only made it active and used higher Ohm versions of speakers. That mid-bass driver is really a mid-range driver and it took a ton of EQing to get it go under 100 Hz. The hf driver is attenuated 30 dB lower than the bass! But luckily the Hypex works wonders with its DSP and with BTL config there is more than enough power available for domestic SPL. I'm crossing them to subs (at 80-100 Hz), but that's hardly necessary for most music of my taste. The bass driver is high-passed at 65 Hz but with my settings it still plays lower and with better feeling of power than my previous speaker, which is similar design, but a passive ported box, without high-pass, with 8" bass driver from the same brand. That was unexpected, but a fortunate surprise.
All in all I'm very happy with how they sound and when they are crossed to subs the mid-range improves and then they really sound fantastic! I will continue to keep tweaking DSP settings and probably add analog attenuation. I may even add a discrete woofer to help with bass reproduction, although that would mostly give me more SPL, which I don't need right now.
Nice work!
How is the FA123 with the 16ohm speaker and CD?
I have 8ohm woofer and the 16ohm 4594HE coax CD.
Im not sure If I need to go with 253. I dont think I need more than a watt
Nothing wrong with having headroom. I have a several hundred watts hooked up to a 4594.Nice work!
How is the FA123 with the 16ohm speaker and CD?
I have 8ohm woofer and the 16ohm 4594HE coax CD.
Im not sure If I need to go with 253. I dont think I need more than a watt
Nice work!
How is the FA123 with the 16ohm speaker and CD?
I have 8ohm woofer and the 16ohm 4594HE coax CD.
Im not sure If I need to go with 253. I dont think I need more than a watt
With the CD+horn it's almost a no-brainer to use high-Ohm driver, because it has much more sensitivity than any woofer. Hiss is still there, but I seldom use them in nearfield and when I do, the hiss doesn't bother me. I need resistors to passively attenuate the CD, without resistors it's -30 dB compared to the woofer with my dsp settings!
I'm running the woofer in bridge-tied load configuration. The woofer is rated 90 dB / W, so doubling driver impedance looses some woofer sensitivity. The mismatch is partially/mostly caused by my dsp settings, which are currently tuned to extend the bass response down to 65 Hz, which is very low for this particular driver. Nevertheless, the woofer has great output for my home use and it's aided by a couple of subs, there is about 20 dB headroom for most of my use, so no problems there.
NB! Choosing higher power FusionAmp doesn't make your high-Ohm-drivers louder, because the amplifier doesn't output more voltage! All NCxxxMP modules become voltage-limited in power for 8 Ohms or higher speaker drivers. Going BTL, like I did, helps, but the loudness is the same in NC122MP and NC502MP. If I needed more SPL, I would need another woofer for bass duty and leave the NMB420 to do mid-rage duty, in which it excels. So choose your drivers fit for the job!
PS. I too considered those BMS drivers at first, but decided to go with a well-known design, which was a lot cheaper. My listening room has changed from the initial plans, so I might be able to go that way some tiem in the future.
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Thanks for all the info!! So from the 123 do you think I can get 10W usable at the mid-part of the 16oh 4594?
It says: Power (8Ω) 2x75Wrms + 1x100Wrms and the ncore distortion diagram fro 8ohm look really good up to half the rated output (in 8ohms though).
How do you calculate the wattage based on the voltage limit you are talking about? (or maybe Im missing something?)
Cheers
It says: Power (8Ω) 2x75Wrms + 1x100Wrms and the ncore distortion diagram fro 8ohm look really good up to half the rated output (in 8ohms though).
How do you calculate the wattage based on the voltage limit you are talking about? (or maybe Im missing something?)
Cheers
There are many calculators in the internet that can point you to the right direction, but according to Ohms law, power consumption halves when we double impedance. So FA123 NC122MP modules 125 W into 4 Ohm = ~62 W @ 8 Ohm = ~31 W @ 16 Ohm. Bridging doubles the available power, so we could get ~62 W @ 16 Ohm. Note that in practice amps are not always able to double power when halving impedance, this here is a mathematical model.
What this basically means is that FusionAmp will output the same voltage at max volume than into lower Ohm driver, but the drivers impedance (or resistance for dc) will limit the current that passes through, so it totals to less power being consumed. The drivers sensitivity is per consumed Watt, so when wattage drops, SPL drops. This is what the big boys told me.
I think you can use the FusionAmp FA123 and its HF channel alone for the 4594, if you use a passive crossover for its coax inputs (they sell one, ready made), and cross it to woofers at 500 Hz or higher. Watts are reduced to 25 W @ 16 Ohm, but with 118 dB sensitivity you can go deaf with just one Watt... That would give you 2 amp channels for woofers, so you can put them in BTL, like I did, and enjoy great sound loud as hell, like I do Or you can go creative and use two woofers and have an amp for each.
Anyway, when choosing higher Ohm version of a driver, you can expect it to be less loud, but generally easier for the amplifier. Whether SPL is a problem or not depends on your requirements, for home use usually not a problem. But if you are gearing for a stadium gig, you will need to plan more carefully. This is useful knowledge if putting more than one driver into an amp channel. I have never had a chance to compare sound quality of two impedance versions of the same driver, so I cannot comment on that, but I'd expect them to be quite similar. Some say higher Ohms are better.
What this basically means is that FusionAmp will output the same voltage at max volume than into lower Ohm driver, but the drivers impedance (or resistance for dc) will limit the current that passes through, so it totals to less power being consumed. The drivers sensitivity is per consumed Watt, so when wattage drops, SPL drops. This is what the big boys told me.
I think you can use the FusionAmp FA123 and its HF channel alone for the 4594, if you use a passive crossover for its coax inputs (they sell one, ready made), and cross it to woofers at 500 Hz or higher. Watts are reduced to 25 W @ 16 Ohm, but with 118 dB sensitivity you can go deaf with just one Watt... That would give you 2 amp channels for woofers, so you can put them in BTL, like I did, and enjoy great sound loud as hell, like I do
Or you can go creative and use two woofers and have an amp for each.Anyway, when choosing higher Ohm version of a driver, you can expect it to be less loud, but generally easier for the amplifier. Whether SPL is a problem or not depends on your requirements, for home use usually not a problem. But if you are gearing for a stadium gig, you will need to plan more carefully. This is useful knowledge if putting more than one driver into an amp channel. I have never had a chance to compare sound quality of two impedance versions of the same driver, so I cannot comment on that, but I'd expect them to be quite similar. Some say higher Ohms are better.