The Drawings in dvg-format
hifiZen
Is it possible to get a copy of your drawings in dvg-format? I´m trying to make new drawings my selves in order to build a pair A166 mkII “Layertone-style”. It would be very useful to have your drawings to verify my drawings so they mach the original as much as possible.
/Forsman
hifiZen
Is it possible to get a copy of your drawings in dvg-format? I´m trying to make new drawings my selves in order to build a pair A166 mkII “Layertone-style”. It would be very useful to have your drawings to verify my drawings so they mach the original as much as possible.
/Forsman
Attachments
Hmm sorry, AutoCAD (at least, the old version I have) does not have an option for exporting to .dvg format.
If you would like a .dwg file I am happy to provide it, though I'm not entirely sure you should use my drawing as a reference - it's currently the version most removed from the original design. I don't feel especially confident with it, and would still like to get my hands on whatever dimensions, handwritten notes, or other drawings anyone out there has, which refer to something closer to the original design.
If you would like a .dwg file I am happy to provide it, though I'm not entirely sure you should use my drawing as a reference - it's currently the version most removed from the original design. I don't feel especially confident with it, and would still like to get my hands on whatever dimensions, handwritten notes, or other drawings anyone out there has, which refer to something closer to the original design.
Sorry for my bad spelling. I mean .dwg (AutoCAD).
I have full understanding if you don’t want to share a drawing that doesn’t feel accurate enough, especially in respect to Ron’s original design.
However I would be very grateful for any drawings of the curved design as well as the flat panel design, to compare and work with. I’m looking at the drawings I can find and I’m trying to figure out how the curved design should look like. But the only thing I’ve found on the curved design is the pdf-file posted on planet10´s site. I took that pdf-file and imported the picture of the curved design into AutoCAD and have tried to redraw the drawing, see the image below.
As far as I understand, that curved design in the paper is labelled Rev: D and the flat panel design in the same paper is labelled Rev:G. Does any one knew if the drawings labelling are complying with the design order Ron is explaining or is the curved design labelled Rev: D actually the re-design (no.3) made by Tony?
/Fredrik
I have full understanding if you don’t want to share a drawing that doesn’t feel accurate enough, especially in respect to Ron’s original design.
However I would be very grateful for any drawings of the curved design as well as the flat panel design, to compare and work with. I’m looking at the drawings I can find and I’m trying to figure out how the curved design should look like. But the only thing I’ve found on the curved design is the pdf-file posted on planet10´s site. I took that pdf-file and imported the picture of the curved design into AutoCAD and have tried to redraw the drawing, see the image below.
REC1 said:
As far as I understand, that curved design in the paper is labelled Rev: D and the flat panel design in the same paper is labelled Rev:G. Does any one knew if the drawings labelling are complying with the design order Ron is explaining or is the curved design labelled Rev: D actually the re-design (no.3) made by Tony?
/Fredrik
Attachments
No problem about sending you the CAD file, I just don't think it's ready for prime-time yet. Anyway, it seems I have one more correction to apply, so I'm working on that. Send me an email, and I'll send you what I've got.
Yes, I would love to have the center points and radii from that rev D plan - it appears to correspond to no. 1 in Ron's lineage... the curved design extrapolated from the original straight taper, but that's a guess on my part.
Reading the other thread, it appears as though maybe bobmar has those curve dimensions... I've emailed him to ask if he can send me that info.
Yes, I would love to have the center points and radii from that rev D plan - it appears to correspond to no. 1 in Ron's lineage... the curved design extrapolated from the original straight taper, but that's a guess on my part.
Reading the other thread, it appears as though maybe bobmar has those curve dimensions... I've emailed him to ask if he can send me that info.
Hello Forsman
I also want to build these speakers was wondering if you have made drawings, or get drawings of the curved version? Looking to try sonido 144 in my but has a couple of 166 also,
Regards
Sweden
På svenska
Hej Forsman
Hej Forsman
Jag vill även bygga dessa högtalare undrar om du har gjort ritningar, eller fått tag på ritningar till den böjda versionen?? Funderar på att pröva sonido 144 i mina men har ett par 166 också,
MVH
Sweden
I also want to build these speakers was wondering if you have made drawings, or get drawings of the curved version? Looking to try sonido 144 in my but has a couple of 166 also,
Regards
Sweden
På svenska
Hej Forsman
Hej Forsman
Jag vill även bygga dessa högtalare undrar om du har gjort ritningar, eller fått tag på ritningar till den böjda versionen?? Funderar på att pröva sonido 144 i mina men har ett par 166 också,
MVH
Sweden
Good news! Turns out, Bobmar had a hardcopy of Ron's original rev G. drawing, complete with all the dimensions - x,y coordinates mostly - and was kind enough to send me a scan of it (Thanks Bob!).
So, now that I have the original dimensions to work from, I'm pretty sure I can straighten out the errors in my existing plans, and produce something faithful to the original design.
Stay tuned folks, I'll be re-working the CAD file this week...
So, now that I have the original dimensions to work from, I'm pretty sure I can straighten out the errors in my existing plans, and produce something faithful to the original design.
Stay tuned folks, I'll be re-working the CAD file this week...
Yes. I'll post the final drawings here when they're ready.
First step is to re-create an accurate set of plans for Ron's original 166e version. This is almost done.
Then I will produce a second plan, modified for the 166es-r. I am thinking this should include a slight re-shaping of the compression chamber, for better airflow around the huge magnet. With the existing design, the magnet blocks most of the area between the cone and the CC. Maybe this doesn't really matter so much, but looking at the plans I have made so far, it seems too restricted.
Probably I will add a bit more height, and maybe slide the driver up a smidge. The final piece of the puzzle is to reduce the total volume of the CC. I'll leave it deliberately oversized, and then add filler blocks as needed. This in turn means that I will probably design in an access hatch to the CC, or maybe a removable baffle instead. Not sure which - right now I'm focused on getting the basic plan right, and I'll work out the other details later.
First step is to re-create an accurate set of plans for Ron's original 166e version. This is almost done.
Then I will produce a second plan, modified for the 166es-r. I am thinking this should include a slight re-shaping of the compression chamber, for better airflow around the huge magnet. With the existing design, the magnet blocks most of the area between the cone and the CC. Maybe this doesn't really matter so much, but looking at the plans I have made so far, it seems too restricted.
Probably I will add a bit more height, and maybe slide the driver up a smidge. The final piece of the puzzle is to reduce the total volume of the CC. I'll leave it deliberately oversized, and then add filler blocks as needed. This in turn means that I will probably design in an access hatch to the CC, or maybe a removable baffle instead. Not sure which - right now I'm focused on getting the basic plan right, and I'll work out the other details later.
yes please do, it's about time i use my 166es-r 8•)
i don't have ideal corners and will be limited to rooms in the house with at least one side being a exterior wall of plywood faced/shingles or brick but have run out of options.
i tried to convince myself that the fostex rec. blh design could be built with only one sheet of baltic birch per side panel rather than two as in their plans.
my reasoning being that it looks like the fostex cut sheet layout doubled the side walls to efficiently get eight 4' long side panels from 3'x6' sheet's of lesser grade wood than baltic birch which typically comes in 5'x5' and is denser and stiffer than lesser grade stock.
thinking that the denser baltic birch side pannel done in one complete 4'L sheet will be about as stiff and just as "anti resonant" as fostex's plan of two 3'L + 1' L staggered at each sides pair to = 4' of mdf, std. construction ply or home depot, lowes birch ply.
not doubling the side walls would significantly reduce the weight of each speaker to ~10lb more than the austin sans deflector.
i don't have ideal corners and will be limited to rooms in the house with at least one side being a exterior wall of plywood faced/shingles or brick but have run out of options.
i tried to convince myself that the fostex rec. blh design could be built with only one sheet of baltic birch per side panel rather than two as in their plans.
my reasoning being that it looks like the fostex cut sheet layout doubled the side walls to efficiently get eight 4' long side panels from 3'x6' sheet's of lesser grade wood than baltic birch which typically comes in 5'x5' and is denser and stiffer than lesser grade stock.
thinking that the denser baltic birch side pannel done in one complete 4'L sheet will be about as stiff and just as "anti resonant" as fostex's plan of two 3'L + 1' L staggered at each sides pair to = 4' of mdf, std. construction ply or home depot, lowes birch ply.
not doubling the side walls would significantly reduce the weight of each speaker to ~10lb more than the austin sans deflector.
Re: yes please do, it's about time i use my 166es-r 8•)
i didn't double the side walls on the 166esr austins i built, was going to double them later if i liked the cabs, & thought they needed it.
if i planned on keeping/using them long term i definitely would.
you can feel the sidewalls vibrating, and hear a "echoey" sound from the back wave.
-- may be partly from the side wall vibration?
(not just the long, dissimilar back wave path length to the front wave).
i don't know about not doubling the side walls being a good idea, unless light weight is more important than sound quality...mp9 said:
i didn't double the side walls on the 166esr austins i built, was going to double them later if i liked the cabs, & thought they needed it.
if i planned on keeping/using them long term i definitely would.
you can feel the sidewalls vibrating, and hear a "echoey" sound from the back wave.
-- may be partly from the side wall vibration?
(not just the long, dissimilar back wave path length to the front wave).
hifiZen said:
Thank you very much, but I have to wait with emailing you. I´m still under moderation on this forum and can´t send mail to other members yet.
Sweden said:
I have no better material to work with than the plans posted on planet10 site and the drawings posted by hifiZen in this thread. I’m putting my hope in hifiZen´s work with the hardcopy from Bobmar.
Still, I would be very happy if someone had a copy of the curved design, labeled Rev: D on planet10 site, in high resolution or a hardcopy. The drawing posted there is in .pdf and in not so high resolution which makes it hard to redraw it in AutoCAD.
/Forsman
My 166esr are still in the box sitting idle untouched for a few years now... I've been thinking Hiro (frugel-horn, spawn) the only cabinet worth it but now, if these plans come out, I might consider it instead. Much harder build but better results.
Plus I have two nice corners so even the deflector is an option.
I also thought about sending them to Planet 10 for the full spa treatment... enable, phase plugs, extreme basket and magnet smoothing for lack of a better term while I build Hiro or A166esr.
At the moment I have two electrovice wolverine LT-15 on JE labs open baffles. Nice but very wide baffle, I need something less imposing in the room.
thanks
paba
Plus I have two nice corners so even the deflector is an option.
I also thought about sending them to Planet 10 for the full spa treatment... enable, phase plugs, extreme basket and magnet smoothing for lack of a better term while I build Hiro or A166esr.
At the moment I have two electrovice wolverine LT-15 on JE labs open baffles. Nice but very wide baffle, I need something less imposing in the room.
thanks
paba
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