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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
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And a gratuitous rear shot. Please notice my classy use of 3' lengths of freebie CAT5 remainders for speaker wire.
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#32 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#33 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Look like a good candidate for phase plugs ![]() dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#34 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'm actually using one wire from each pair for + and the other wire from each pair for -. Sounds just the same as using the 10' lengths of standard 10ga speaker wire that I run in the living room.
They call the cone material "pearl mica P.P." so I'm not exactly sure what its made from. It feels somewhere between a treated paper and propylene. I had thought that they might do better mounted vertically. I've actually had the fresh pieces foam core to make baffles for that set up for several months now. Just haven't come across the proper time/motivation quotient needed to get me to do the work yet. I'm interested in trying to mod these with phase plugs. The whizzer is paper, and the dome in its center is about 3/4". Kensai |
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#35 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon - USA
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I'm wondering how low these B200 OB mounted go before you get to -3db? See, I'm interested in playing with these, but I don't have the cash for any more than (2) B200 drivers. I do have a HSU Research VTF-2 sub that crosses over up to about 125hz, but I'm not sure if I'm going to leave a big hole in the spectrum trying to do this.
Assuming the these speakers will mate with the above subwoofer, would this system be able to do double duty with home theater as well at moderate levels? |
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#36 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Relieved of doing bass these should be more than adequate to do HT.... dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon - USA
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Hmmm, so then how do you determine the correct width of the baffle to tune the bass response so that is is easily crossed over to the sub? Adjusting the baffle width is a type of Baffle Step Correction (new concept to me) is it not?
How does width vs height of the baffle play out? Wait, maybe I shouldn't be asking all these questions. I think I've just about talked myself into a pair of these
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Bavarian Forest
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I did some simulation to compare them to my Ciare HX201, they also do well in a 2 meter folded TL.
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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To give one example, a 26" wide baffle will begin to run into baffle-step issues (-3db point) at around 175Hz I believe.
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#40 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon - USA
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I always see OB and references to the width of the baffle. What about the height? I would think that both have to be taken into account, but have no idea what the relationship should be.
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