Kees,
Good to hear from you - it's been a long time. It looks very nice but that is not necessary to cut the top and bottom panels to fit the curve. They can extend beyond the tractrix profile and provide additional stiffening ribs. Why are you cutting them to match the curve?
Good to hear from you - it's been a long time. It looks very nice but that is not necessary to cut the top and bottom panels to fit the curve. They can extend beyond the tractrix profile and provide additional stiffening ribs. Why are you cutting them to match the curve?
It is not cutting but to gleu the horn flare on the sidewalls I need to flatten it because it is not, the I get a gap between the curve and the sidewall and I can not glue that.
I do not change it, the inside of the conical part is inside untouched, but outside is higher because of the conical form. The corner of the conical part of the horn changes, it starts oke, but then I get a bigger inside slit towards the mouth and so need to flatten that with that slef made file to get it equal.
I try to explane that in english but I am not so good at that, so pictures explane the problem I hope.
Why i did remove the panels outside the horn is to make it easy to get it done, I have used thinner panels, half of the used thickness, and when ready I gleu one on top and bottom and have that good thickness again.
regards
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Ok, I see... you are gluing the curved wall to the edge of the flat panel. I glue the edge of the curve wall to the flat of the flat panel, so all the panel needs to be is, well, flat. 🙂 You need something to hold the curved shape in place while the glue dries. I suppose the edge of your flat wall is serving that purpose. In my case, I use hot melt glue which hardens in 45 seconds so the shape is held by my hands.
Hi
You need to now, this is wood, it needs a good surface to glue on, it will be very stiff when ready.. I do not need to keep the curve be hold because it is clammed and gleu it and now it stay of itselfs in form.
regards
Well one is ready so far, so I can go test it with the small visaton frs8m.
It do dry now, and I think it is quite stiff now, I do glue a plate on top and bottom, I did separate the total thickness of the top and bottom in two, so I get a more easy wat to build it.
regards
kees
It do dry now, and I think it is quite stiff now, I do glue a plate on top and bottom, I did separate the total thickness of the top and bottom in two, so I get a more easy wat to build it.
regards
kees
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And with construction woodglue who do rise also to fill gaps.
Thanks for the nice writing.
Now the speaker part is next, a little box and then the bassunit I have to find who has some efficienty.
I ask myself are the woofers of the synergy also not horn loaded? here just a bandpass do the stuff. I have to find out the holes for the injection in the horn, I can file of but not back. so I just measure and try.
Ohh I have to say I do not need bass extension to 50 Hz, 80-90 hz is fine, the rest coming from a tapped horn, so 80 will be the best and less difficult in that horn, I do not use a 12 inch woofer but 8 inch x 4 or 10 inch x 2..
regards
kees
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Juhazi,
Thanks for the kind words! I had bad resonances with one layer of foam core. I was audible and measurable as harmonic distortion. I then used constrained layer damping
Here is before and after CLD on the bigger 1.0x scale horn:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/259293-prv-5mr450-ndy-fast-applications-13.html#post4036324
This is what I also do with top and bottom, glue a extra plate on it so bass units have room.
I have a very long wish list if its comes to diy audio. And I am still working on some of my projects.. But seeing your work Kees, puts the horn build higher up the list.
I have the Visaton drivers in a "foam board" Cornu spiral which I build because of the enthusiasm about foam board.....by a well known member of this forum🙂
Like your build Kees (and sanding-broomstick).
R.
I have the Visaton drivers in a "foam board" Cornu spiral which I build because of the enthusiasm about foam board.....by a well known member of this forum🙂
Like your build Kees (and sanding-broomstick).
R.
Thanks a lot, yes the broomstick was needed because of the conical part who change up the tractrix flare and need sanded equal to close the edges of tractrix part against the top and bottom, if you understand my english 😀. For the bass section I go need try simulate again, I go use the philloips baswoofers, one on both sides and hope to have enough sound, it is for high end in home, not outside PA. But I think seen the holes in the horn corners that I do need two of them on one side, I do not now if one hole will work as bass injection.
En ja vijlen heel veel vijlen, je moet er wat voor over hebben🙂
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Which Philips drivers would that be? I currently use the AD12200W/8 in a BR cabinet....which I like very much.. They are completing my OB Philips AD12202M/8 at the moment.
R.
It are the AD8066 W4, has 92-94 dB watt I go measure them with this jigg who I have special build for speaker measuring, it has a own 6 watt class b amp on board so I spare computer outputs.
regards
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Ah! That looks nice. I one of my projects I am going to the AD8065 with "Co" woofer (passive radiator).
R.
R.
I have seen on site that phillips have to high Rs but this is because the rubber is more stiff after so much years, after use it will go down again, or a new rubber wil help.
MFB I go not use, this what I do now is just enough, I have to learn akabak again to put phillips in a design a delay with coils in the crossover, but a bessel do fine.
regards
regards
MFB I go not use, this what I do now is just enough, I have to learn akabak again to put phillips in a design a delay with coils in the crossover, but a bessel do fine.
regards
regards
Not so far, I am busy to make the throat adapter for the visaton, then a plastic pipe for the back of the speaker, so I can make an small back chamber.
so Follow me, I do post results. The bass part comes later, I have to design bessel allpass for time correction and a normal cross over, I am more curious
now about how the visaton do, and how wide it will go.
regards
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Thanks the pictures looks really good and can understand you curious to see how Visaton full ranger perform in the horn before the probably hard process to do the math right for LF injection points and the complicated physical box building environment for woofers, have best process : )
I see the throat will be 1 cm longer and some smaller because of the speaker plate there, but I go sim to see how it do influence it, I think not of little.
regards
regards
I have made a tube closed chamber behind the visaton, used pvc for that, I need to mede the connections on the outside to get it airtight.
This chamber will be very small, I presume how smaller it is the better the respons on high frequenties. I go sim that in akabak.
regards
This chamber will be very small, I presume how smaller it is the better the respons on high frequenties. I go sim that in akabak.
regards
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You don't want it too small or it won't be able to reach the lower frequencies as well and you may have resonances and a constricted sound. I made a box that goes around driver, circa 2.4 liters and lined with foam.