That's whats so frustrating about this, Ive tried all the obvious things.Ive turned the tuner wheel one way & set the tuner cursor at one end wrapped the string around every which way & back again but nothing seems to work? As I mentioned before I have a book with 500+ different diagrams for rewinding radio tuner cords back on and none of them remotely looks like this spring with its 1-2mm movement? The morale to this story is ""Don't buy Philips"" If you want customer support.
I know what you mean but I have it here right in front of me and that will NOT work.When I pulled the tuner unit out, the pin was in the hole? When I take the spring out and put it back in its a bit of a struggle to get the pin back in the hole so I cant see it falling in the hole by accident. If I disengage the spring pin it makes the string shorter and harder to get back on than it was before..
Looking at the pictures, you might have it backwards. The string might wind onto the drum from the bottom, rather than double back onto the drum as you have it in the pictures. One clue is that there is enough string to wrap around the drum - if it was meant to go the way you have it, there would be no need for it to wrap right round the drum. Also, most tuning scales go up in frequency left to right, and most tuning capacitors go up in frequency (down in capacitance) clockwise as viewed from the drum side. The way you have it appears "backwards".
So, start with the tuning pointer at the low end of the scale, tuning capacitor plates closed. (The drum will be slightly stiffer to turn at the low frequency end of its setting - maximum capacitance.) Check that the capacitor "opens" as the pointer moves towards the high frequency end of the scale.
You appear to have the string attached to the spring correctly, but you need to lift the pin on the end of the spring out of the little hole it's in. I think it could actually go on either side of the spoke with the little hole in. Pick whichever side gives the right amount of string and the right tension. You might find that having the pin in the hole makes the string exactly the right length, then lifting it out applies the right tension. This would make sense from an assembly point of view - the assembler would put the spring end in the hole, run the string around the pulleys and pull it up snug against the pins in the drum and tie it off, then release the spring to apply the right tension.
Edit: that said, it does look rather convenient for the spring end to be in the hole. If it was that way when you opened it, it's definitely a puzzle.
So, start with the tuning pointer at the low end of the scale, tuning capacitor plates closed. (The drum will be slightly stiffer to turn at the low frequency end of its setting - maximum capacitance.) Check that the capacitor "opens" as the pointer moves towards the high frequency end of the scale.
You appear to have the string attached to the spring correctly, but you need to lift the pin on the end of the spring out of the little hole it's in. I think it could actually go on either side of the spoke with the little hole in. Pick whichever side gives the right amount of string and the right tension. You might find that having the pin in the hole makes the string exactly the right length, then lifting it out applies the right tension. This would make sense from an assembly point of view - the assembler would put the spring end in the hole, run the string around the pulleys and pull it up snug against the pins in the drum and tie it off, then release the spring to apply the right tension.
Edit: that said, it does look rather convenient for the spring end to be in the hole. If it was that way when you opened it, it's definitely a puzzle.
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Hi,
Lack of method seems to be the problem.
In the above its clearly too short, so it doesn't wrap around
the white wheel. I'm sure the spring works as I described.
If unwrapped from the white wheel its too long, no problem.
Wrap it round the two pulley's near the tuning knob. Better ?
Enough to wrap the tuning knob to get it tight ?
Wrap it round another pulley, and carry on until it is tight.
It may wrap around all the pulley's.
For final tightening I reckon you lift off the pulley on the
bottom right, get the number of turns on the knob right,
slip the cords behind the spring and then replace the pulley.
Thought the original final tensioning looks to be
have been done by the plastic screws in the wheel.
rgds, sreten.
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This is with the tuner and cursor set to the low frequency end of the scale with 4 turns around the tuning knob and spring disengaged?
Attachments
Hi,
Lack of method seems to be the problem.
In the above its clearly too short, so it doesn't wrap around
the white wheel. I'm sure the spring works as I described.
If unwrapped from the white wheel its too long, no problem.
Wrap it round the two pulley's near the tuning knob. Better ?
Enough to wrap the tuning knob to get it tight ?
Wrap it round another pulley, and carry on until it is tight.
It may wrap around all the pulley's.
For final tightening I reckon you lift off the pulley on the
bottom right, get the number of turns on the knob right,
slip the cords behind the spring and then replace the pulley.
Thought the original final tensioning looks to be
have been done by the plastic screws in the wheel.
rgds, sreten.
I know your trying to help Sreten,but you've got a few things about face,there are no plastic screws in the white wheel they are anchors for the tuning cord,and if the string was meant to go around the pulleys a few times then it would have been like that when I first pulled it out because of the clips holding the pulleys on.The bottom right pulley is melted on permanently?
Just a quick idea that I don't think has been mentioned. There are two sets of pegs holding the ends of the cord, one set has screwdriver slots. I think these were used to tighten the cord once it had been set up, like a guitar string. Can these pegs be loosened, If they can be loosened then I would suggest getting some more cord, (they used to sell it in electronics stores but I supose a fishing store would have something useable). Wind the new cord around the mechanism in any way that pleases you, set the spring up any way that will provide tension, tighten the screwdriver slot pegs so that the mechanism works reliably, apply some new red gunk and it should last for years. You might be able to re-use the original cord.
Those pegs are just pegs,not screws the splits are just for extra grip for the cord.
Well it looks like Ive tried everything so far,so I'm going to give it a rest and come back to it later before I start jumping up and down on it.LOL.
Would it be possible that the hole the spring fits into is to hold the spring until you have the string everywhere it needs to go and then release the spring from the hole to apply pressure? Leave the spring in the hole, run your string, snug it up through the spring and string termination and anchor it down, and then release the spring to put tension on it.
Just a guess. I've done a few. Have fun..
After reading more, is this the original string?
Just a guess. I've done a few. Have fun..
After reading more, is this the original string?
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That's what anyone would logically think but the pin was in the hole when I first looked at it,so they haven't released it at the factory when it was set? One thing Ive noticed is that when the strings are going in opposite directions on the white wheel I only get half tuning on the scale,if I set it at low frequency the cursor will only travel halfway(to the middle) and if its set at high frequency its the same deal it will only go halfway(to the middle) So I'm obviously winding it on wrong.Looks like I might try with the white wheel halfway and the same with the cursor and see what happens? LOL
Hi,
You complain far too much, and are very wrong. The wheel
clearly has screws that are threadlocked by the red compound.
The bottom right pulley is no different to the rest of them.
YMMV but I'm sure I could get it to work quickly and
its your pedantry that is simply stopping you fixing it.
rgds, sreten.
To the contrary,Your way off the mark again. I haven't complained in the least and I don't know how you could come up with that scenario? I merely informed you that your interpretation of the photos was wrong. As I said before The ""screws"" are in reality tie lugs,they are a part of the white wheel mold and the slits you can see is for the string to be wedged in before wrapping around the posts and gluing.As for the reality of the bottom right hand pulley the top of the pin is melted if you care to look so it cant be removed.Yes but I suppose your right that you could get it working quickly and its only pedantry that's stopping me,Yeah,that makes sense LOL
I didn't read everything in detail but is it possible the white wheel on the tuner is 180 degrees off? Did you remove the wheel from the tuner and possibly put it on wrong?
You can't let a string kick your butt.. LOL
After looking at one of your pics, is it possible that you're wrapping the string the wrong way around the white wheel? Instead of going 90 degrees from the idler pulley around the white pulley, simply go straight from the idler, across the white pulley and around one wrap and proceed to the second pulley. That may make up the difference in the length..
Just a thought..
You can't let a string kick your butt.. LOL
After looking at one of your pics, is it possible that you're wrapping the string the wrong way around the white wheel? Instead of going 90 degrees from the idler pulley around the white pulley, simply go straight from the idler, across the white pulley and around one wrap and proceed to the second pulley. That may make up the difference in the length..
Just a thought..
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