Aluminum MK2 Design Preview

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My problems with the signal input on my panel gave me a chance to do more testing with the system.

I received the 3x3" fresnel lens to see how it worked when compared to a round glass lens as a pre-condenser... and after testing I can say that I didnt see any difference. It worked just as well as any of the round condensers I've used in the past.

I dont think I'll be using a pre-condenser... simply because a 3 lens condenser system really isnt needed with this setup. Putting the bulb totally inside the pyramid makes such a big difference that using one would be overkill. The spherical reflector & heat absorbing glass stay though.

My next pics will include new aluminum air tubes which will be mounted to each side of the pyramid with fans for cooling of the light chamber. Which is the reason for the holes in the sides of the pyramid above the bulb cutouts in previous pics :)
 
Just wondering how your cooling tubes will be set up? Will they come straight out to the sides of the enclosure? Or will they incorporate a bend to limit light leaks? I've been wondering how you'd cool your trapezoid for a while now.
I'm also curious how you will change your bulb when it dies. Have you incorporated some kind of hatch into the trapezoid or some sort of easy way to get at the bulb when it pukes out? I've had a few interesting ideas for this. Just wondered what your plan was.
You PJ certainly looks to be turning into one of the nicest on the forum. You certainly set out to make a quality design. I love the fact that you used all aluminum, and I will be doing the same when I build my PJ. I also have decided to go with a 400W MH system, since I can get the ballasts for next to nothing from my electrician buddy. I can't justify spending the money on the 250W setup just to save a little space, and lose light.
I was totally bummed when you started having LCD problems. I was hoping to see some screenshots of that bad boy fired up.
Did you take the bum one back to circuit shitty yet?
 
faithblinded, thanks for the compliments. Yeah, I was ****ed about the LCD too. Funny thing is I went with the CMV so I can just open it up and install it. Unlike my last nec 1560m which I had to modify the flex cable. Looking back now, I would have been better off just buying another 1560 and doing it again :) Oh well. Next time. But now, after all this I really want to see how this cmv looks... so I'll try to fix the problem since it's just the controller.

The bulb extends through the pyramid. So to change bulbs all you'll have to do is open a door on the side panel of the enclosure and unscrew the bulb. Only 1" of the bulb is exposed on the butt end, so the majority of the bulb sits totally inside. There are really 4 holes cut into the sides of the pyramid itself.1 cutout for the bulb and one 4" cutout overlapping for the air tube. The air tubes will also be aluminum and sit just above the bulb extending outward to 2 - 80mm fans mounted on the sides of the box mainly put in place to cool the heat absorbing glass. Since I dont think I've posted pics of the bulb screwed in with the pyramid in place I'll take some more detailed pics both before and after I install the tubes. The top of the pyramid is capped off with a sheet of UV treated Lexan for both UV and heat control. The fresnels sit on top of that and get barely warm to the touch with this setup.

John
www.diybuildergroup.com
Coming Soon
 
A Lot of progress actually! I solved the condenser lens issues and found a lens that should even work with crusers 17" project coming up. I'm also working on a few diy triplet and zoom lens combos with great results so far. I'll have more pictures over the weekend.

I'll be selling the condensers, along with other key parts of the design in the coming weeks as this project comes to an end and a new site I'm working on goes up.

Things should get interesting over the next few weeks :)
So keep your eyes open!

www.diybuildergroup.com
Coming Soon!
 
Hey mccamp82,

Thanks! Yeah I have made some more progress. I finished up the cooling system and got to polishing and painting. I'll be posting more pics and stuff very soon. Side projects kind of got me sidetracked.

I still have the LCD issue with this CMV. Looks like I may have to buy a new monitor being that I cant find the part I need. If thats the case I'll go for a different monitor even if I have to extend the flex cable. I havent seen any new monitors posted recently... so it might be a good idea.

Thanks again
John


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soon!
 
I'm taking some more construction pics of the box and light chamber tonight... so I should have new updates very soon.

I also picked up a new LCD. I wasnt happy with the CMV at all so went back to NEC. I'll be going with a NEC/ Mitsubishi Diamond Point V50LCD-BK. It arrived today and I already started taking it apart. Specs are native XGA, 500:1 contrast, rapid response

It's very thin so I expected a flex cable. I wasnt disapointed :) But good news is I'll be putting together a flex cable extension kit that should work on most .5 pitch LCD's out... not just this one. It will be solderless so no worries :)

Again, pics very soon


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OPENING THIS WEEK
 
Heres a shot of the extended flex cable tested and WORKING before the original backlight is removed to make testing easier.
 

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lol, your right ACE... But even as a desktop monitor it wasnt up to spec. No way was it 400:1 and the dittering was bad! I really think all of the liquidvideo's and any other no name brand that use the 1512 number are all the white labels. (search 1512 white label to find the specs)

Both the 1560M and now this DiamondPoint are MUCH BETTER then the CMV side by side before break down.


JCB


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TOMORROW!
 
jcbklyny said:
After a second look the flex cable on the Mitsubishi Diamond Point V50LCD-BK is 20 poles with a .5 pitch. Same as the Samsung 152 I believe (Mr Kh can confirm that).


JCB


Yes I can :p Samsung 152T .5mm pitch 20 connectors.


Like I said on the diybuilder forum, great work on your new site, if you guys haven't already checked it out, it's worth a peak.
 
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