Absolutely great posts! I have been using the big 400 watt mogul base MH for a while now and I felt like I was in the dark ages compared to the compact bulbs everyone was using, but just could not see throwing down that much money for the compact. My whole MH set cost me round $60.00 - I just purchased a commercial MH light, tore it apart and took out the ballast, base and bulb.
I've been struggling over building an enclosure due to wavering between accomodating this bulb or waiting until I could spring for the compact. This has given me tons of ideas and it looks a hec of a lot better than my poor ugly OHP I modified for that big bulb with an electrical box hanging off the side for my switches and an outlet, together with a computer power supply for the fan hanging off the other-side with it's cord wrapped around and plugged into the outlet.
I bet I win the contest for the ugliest OHP modification to-date.
Keep it coming on this thread!!!
I've been struggling over building an enclosure due to wavering between accomodating this bulb or waiting until I could spring for the compact. This has given me tons of ideas and it looks a hec of a lot better than my poor ugly OHP I modified for that big bulb with an electrical box hanging off the side for my switches and an outlet, together with a computer power supply for the fan hanging off the other-side with it's cord wrapped around and plugged into the outlet.
I bet I win the contest for the ugliest OHP modification to-date.
Keep it coming on this thread!!!
thanks Lori... I see alot of people moving back to the larger but slimmer 400 watt MH bulbs in future designs... so we're not alone 
. YWH plans on using on for his next box, which should be interesting.
Cruser, The bulb sits about 9.85" long inside the socket. The MOL and physical bulb size info is on the pdf spec sheet. (I believe it was already posted earlier in this thread)
I got a lot of work done on the box today and all I have left is to mount the mirror and projection lens. I managed to finish everything else... so later on I should finally have some result shots for you. I just have to borrow a da-lite screen from work until I make my new one. I have white walls in the room I'm using the unit in, but their glossy so it's really sucks for projection.
I'll also have some final construction pics and such... so keep your eyes open.
www.diybuildergroup.com
Coming Soon!
. YWH plans on using on for his next box, which should be interesting. Cruser, The bulb sits about 9.85" long inside the socket. The MOL and physical bulb size info is on the pdf spec sheet. (I believe it was already posted earlier in this thread)
I got a lot of work done on the box today and all I have left is to mount the mirror and projection lens. I managed to finish everything else... so later on I should finally have some result shots for you. I just have to borrow a da-lite screen from work until I make my new one. I have white walls in the room I'm using the unit in, but their glossy so it's really sucks for projection.
I'll also have some final construction pics and such... so keep your eyes open.
www.diybuildergroup.com
Coming Soon!
jcbklyny,
I have talked with you about the nec 1560 a lot before. Contact me if you are interested in a project with me and ace3000_1.
jarretttowe@hotmail.com
Contact me privately, this is a capital venture and I dont want to disclose the details on the forum.
Thanks,
JT
I have talked with you about the nec 1560 a lot before. Contact me if you are interested in a project with me and ace3000_1.
jarretttowe@hotmail.com
Contact me privately, this is a capital venture and I dont want to disclose the details on the forum.
Thanks,
JT
400 watt lamp
JC,
Is there anything wrong with using the larger sixed metal hallide bulbs such as this one? http://www.1000bulbs.com./product.php?product=549
If this is not a good type of bulb for projectors then what about this? http://www.1000bulbs.com./product.php?product=549
One more question...If the second option is a lot better for projector building, can you tell me if this ballast is compatible with it? http://www.1000bulbs.com./product.php?product=801
I would like to go with the bigger, cheaper lamp if it will be good enough for a projector. I am going to be building a custom enclosure of my own design i guess. It will very similar to cruser's projectors. I don't really care about the size thing. All I care about is picture quality. I will be using pyramids, a condensore, and a reflector. Any help you could give me is very appreciated.
BTW, i love your projector. Very impressive.
JC,
Is there anything wrong with using the larger sixed metal hallide bulbs such as this one? http://www.1000bulbs.com./product.php?product=549
If this is not a good type of bulb for projectors then what about this? http://www.1000bulbs.com./product.php?product=549
One more question...If the second option is a lot better for projector building, can you tell me if this ballast is compatible with it? http://www.1000bulbs.com./product.php?product=801
I would like to go with the bigger, cheaper lamp if it will be good enough for a projector. I am going to be building a custom enclosure of my own design i guess. It will very similar to cruser's projectors. I don't really care about the size thing. All I care about is picture quality. I will be using pyramids, a condensore, and a reflector. Any help you could give me is very appreciated.
BTW, i love your projector. Very impressive.
That bulb is very yellow 4000 Kelvin
Film is projected at 5600 Kelvin.
You could correct that on the LCD.
The way you could do it is to project a 18%gray card and make your adjustment to that.
What you would want to do is:
1) get a 18% gray card from a photo shop.
2) take a photo of it
3) project it.
4) hold up the real gray card
5) now adjust the LCD till the card and projection look the same.
You also may want you set your gamma to 1.7
Film is projected at 5600 Kelvin.
You could correct that on the LCD.
The way you could do it is to project a 18%gray card and make your adjustment to that.
What you would want to do is:
1) get a 18% gray card from a photo shop.
2) take a photo of it
3) project it.
4) hold up the real gray card
5) now adjust the LCD till the card and projection look the same.
You also may want you set your gamma to 1.7
OOps
Sorry, thisis the bulb that i meant to put as the second link http://www.1000bulbs.com./product.php?product=4555 is the bulb that i was talking about for the second one.
Sorry, thisis the bulb that i meant to put as the second link http://www.1000bulbs.com./product.php?product=4555 is the bulb that i was talking about for the second one.
I thought that most of these bulbs people use are around 4000-4200 color temp. Will the difference be that noticable? You're sayingi can correct the color difference using the color controls on the monitor? Sounds okay to me. I guess i just need to know if there is anything wrong with it due to it being a larger buld. I noticed the arc length is 40 mm. Is that too long? I probably will just skip the condensor anyway. I will just use the bulb in a tube with a homemade reflector, like the one cruser used in The Silver streak. anyway, thanks for the help
To be honest the diylabs 250watt setup has the same specs at 4000k and 65 cri. Now I'd say thats way too low for projection... but people seem to use it without trouble so you can try it. My bulb has a much higher temp ratings and color rendering... which is what you should look for.
With the 400 you really dont need a condenser... but it does help.
Any large 400 watter will work. Look at brainchild's projector... he uses the big hump bulb... but a small arc is what you need. The smaller the arc the easier it is to find and place your optics getting the most out of your bulb. 40mm is rather large... I'd say twice as big as you really want. My big 400 has a 27mm arc... only 2 mm off the little 250 watters. So when looking for a bulb no matter what size or wattage you'd want to look for lumens, color temp, color rendering and arc size. As much lumens as possible, 5000 or higher color temp, 85 or higher color rendering and arc size under 30mm. 24-28 would be ideal.
Thanks for the comments btw... some problems with the lcd has held up some final screen shots... but hey, now I have more time to finish my new ideas on the box right. Hey I gotta look at it in a good way or I'll get frustrated.
Any questions you have feel free to ask... I'll help you in any way I can.
I'm going to be selling the bulb I'm using now. Ushio UHI-S400DD. I dont have a final price yet... but will soon.
With the 400 you really dont need a condenser... but it does help.
Any large 400 watter will work. Look at brainchild's projector... he uses the big hump bulb... but a small arc is what you need. The smaller the arc the easier it is to find and place your optics getting the most out of your bulb. 40mm is rather large... I'd say twice as big as you really want. My big 400 has a 27mm arc... only 2 mm off the little 250 watters. So when looking for a bulb no matter what size or wattage you'd want to look for lumens, color temp, color rendering and arc size. As much lumens as possible, 5000 or higher color temp, 85 or higher color rendering and arc size under 30mm. 24-28 would be ideal.
Thanks for the comments btw... some problems with the lcd has held up some final screen shots... but hey, now I have more time to finish my new ideas on the box right. Hey I gotta look at it in a good way or I'll get frustrated.
Any questions you have feel free to ask... I'll help you in any way I can.
I'm going to be selling the bulb I'm using now. Ushio UHI-S400DD. I dont have a final price yet... but will soon.
hey, thanks a lot JC. Sorry to hear about the LCD troubles. I hope you get it figured out soon as I know it can be very frustrating. If you come up with a price for the bulb, i would be quite interested. Can you tell me what type of ballast it uses and where i could get one for a good price? Thanks
jcb????
As for ballasts and bulbs.
This is the light I tore down.
http://www.hubbell-ltg.com/products/psg4page/industrial/blballast.pdf
Mogul base
I have the 400 watt multi tap (product code 8 under the voltage chart)
Under the 400 watt description is says "MH, pulse start MH, HPS or E-reg
I have it wired at 120v
Do you know if this will fire the UHI-S400DD USHIO lamp you have previously mentioned, because now that you compare the specs on the lamps, I'd like to try this bulb. I can locate your bulb, it says it is an HPS retrofit.
Thanks
As for ballasts and bulbs.
This is the light I tore down.
http://www.hubbell-ltg.com/products/psg4page/industrial/blballast.pdf
Mogul base
I have the 400 watt multi tap (product code 8 under the voltage chart)
Under the 400 watt description is says "MH, pulse start MH, HPS or E-reg
I have it wired at 120v
Do you know if this will fire the UHI-S400DD USHIO lamp you have previously mentioned, because now that you compare the specs on the lamps, I'd like to try this bulb. I can locate your bulb, it says it is an HPS retrofit.
Thanks
BTW, I know some people have thought of using a fresnel lens in place of the condenser since rectanglar condensers are hard to come by at the right size... but I havent heard about any solid results yet either way. So I ordered a 3x3" fresnel lens w/ a 2.6" focal length to try it out. This will make it a 3 fresnel design (all behind the LCD) which as long as I can keep the pre-fresnel cool enough... should yeild a brighter image corner to corner then any round or semi-round condenser I can find.
I should have it by tomorrow or Monday. I'll let you know how everything goes.
PS-
The big 95mm condenser I have now works great... but it's focal length actually shrinks the focal length of my top fresnel by at least 7 inches! Which just wont do. Plus being that it's round you can still notice a VERY slight difference in light output along the very corners of the screen. VERY, very slight... but expect from a round condenser. (I say very slight because out of all the people I had look at it I was the only one who noticed it)
I should have it by tomorrow or Monday. I'll let you know how everything goes.
PS-
The big 95mm condenser I have now works great... but it's focal length actually shrinks the focal length of my top fresnel by at least 7 inches! Which just wont do. Plus being that it's round you can still notice a VERY slight difference in light output along the very corners of the screen. VERY, very slight... but expect from a round condenser. (I say very slight because out of all the people I had look at it I was the only one who noticed it)
So, let me get this correct. You are are using a MH lamp with a ballast meant for high pressure sodium, and this bulb was specifically designed for this purpose to produce the specs you quoted. The site I found the bulb said it "turns orange to white" which I assume basically means takes out the yellows and is a whiter light.
So, the MH ballast, I have, though it says it will accomodate a HPS bulb, will not fire this bulb, or if it did, the bulb would not run at the quotes specs?
I'm just trying to get all of this straight
Thanks
So, the MH ballast, I have, though it says it will accomodate a HPS bulb, will not fire this bulb, or if it did, the bulb would not run at the quotes specs?
I'm just trying to get all of this straight
Thanks
http://www.ushio.com/files/UltraArc0903.pdf
Thats the pdf spec sheet of the bulb. To be honest I dont know whether or not your ballast will fire it. The specs only mention an s51 ballast type and I never tried to fire the lamp with a regular mh ballast.
The lamp was designed to bring regular MH bulbs into existing HPS fixtures since HPS bulbs run towards the yellow end of the spectrum. Icecap is making a 400watt 120v electronic ballast that will fire any MH or HPS bulb... so if you did get it to fire with another ballast I'm sure it would run to spec no matter what ballast you have.
I picked this odd retrofit bulb just because of the specs... I didnt have an HPS ballast. But when compared to most other 400 watt MH's on the market... the specs are better overall with the UHI-S400DD
Thats the pdf spec sheet of the bulb. To be honest I dont know whether or not your ballast will fire it. The specs only mention an s51 ballast type and I never tried to fire the lamp with a regular mh ballast.
The lamp was designed to bring regular MH bulbs into existing HPS fixtures since HPS bulbs run towards the yellow end of the spectrum. Icecap is making a 400watt 120v electronic ballast that will fire any MH or HPS bulb... so if you did get it to fire with another ballast I'm sure it would run to spec no matter what ballast you have.
I picked this odd retrofit bulb just because of the specs... I didnt have an HPS ballast. But when compared to most other 400 watt MH's on the market... the specs are better overall with the UHI-S400DD
I'm also using T15 bulbs, I have a native MH one and a Conversion bulb (by Venture - they only make 3 250W T15 bulbs I have the universal orientation one and the hps conversion one) both of them fire and run fine on my 250W M58 - I assume the conversion bulb is also designed to work with a HPS ballast - but like I said works fine on my MH ballast.
[EDIT: Lori your ballast says it will do MH and HPS so I think either way you're kinda covered.]
[EDIT: Lori your ballast says it will do MH and HPS so I think either way you're kinda covered.]
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