Low Jitter clock generator to upgrade Cd player or transport !
Hello guys !
I plan to upgrade my CD-104, and reading all this post, after some caps upgrade, i think maybe wthis will be interesting upgrade !
Would you tell me your opinion?
Can be orderd with clock you prefer for aditional 20 bucks @ http://diykits.com.hk/OPA.htm
Also, is on eBay @ this moment:
Low Jitter clock to upgrade Cd player Usb to spdif dac
... and i need some good technical advice how to connect this upgrade to CD-104
Regards !
Hello guys !
I plan to upgrade my CD-104, and reading all this post, after some caps upgrade, i think maybe wthis will be interesting upgrade !
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Would you tell me your opinion?
Can be orderd with clock you prefer for aditional 20 bucks @ http://diykits.com.hk/OPA.htm
Also, is on eBay @ this moment:
Low Jitter clock to upgrade Cd player Usb to spdif dac
... and i need some good technical advice how to connect this upgrade to CD-104
Regards !
a good idea but ....
note that these older 14 bit players have a lower clock speed of 4.2336 Mhz, so you may have to use a 74HCT74 to divide a higher clock frequency. Alternatively you could approach them and see if they'd do a lower frequency clock version ? There are plnety of variants of the CD104 that could use a straight drop-on clock.
A number of people have done this the diy way and have had good results , for example here :
CD 104 clock upgrade
and also here :
Japanese CD34 mod site
note that these older 14 bit players have a lower clock speed of 4.2336 Mhz, so you may have to use a 74HCT74 to divide a higher clock frequency. Alternatively you could approach them and see if they'd do a lower frequency clock version ? There are plnety of variants of the CD104 that could use a straight drop-on clock.
A number of people have done this the diy way and have had good results , for example here :
CD 104 clock upgrade
and also here :
Japanese CD34 mod site
Hi Komigenie,
I have used a KWAK clock with good success in these old Philips players (CD304) using the original 4.2336 Mhz crystal. The KWAK clock responds to a variety of frequencies and can be put together on a perf board. There is a write up on this at http://www.diyparadise.com/clock.html
My kwak clock is built on a PCB with SMD components that I got from a club project.
I also have used a Hagclock in a later model Philips Cd473. Both clocks performed well but I haven't compared them head to head in the same player yet.
Jim indicated that his hagclock should be able to run on these low frequencies but I have not tried yet.
http://www.hagtech.com/hagclock.html
I did find that a preregulated power supply for the kwak with seperate transformer improved its performance.
Cheers
Rich
I have used a KWAK clock with good success in these old Philips players (CD304) using the original 4.2336 Mhz crystal. The KWAK clock responds to a variety of frequencies and can be put together on a perf board. There is a write up on this at http://www.diyparadise.com/clock.html
My kwak clock is built on a PCB with SMD components that I got from a club project.
I also have used a Hagclock in a later model Philips Cd473. Both clocks performed well but I haven't compared them head to head in the same player yet.
Jim indicated that his hagclock should be able to run on these low frequencies but I have not tried yet.
http://www.hagtech.com/hagclock.html
I did find that a preregulated power supply for the kwak with seperate transformer improved its performance.
Cheers
Rich
me too. From these pictures it looks more like the 2 boards have their own screened 'box', but the boards look standard Philips
http://www.dcaudio.kgb.pl/grundig7550.htm
http://www.dcaudio.kgb.pl/grundig7550.htm
yes - I remain to be convinced about the 7550. It looks to be a OEM'd Philips machine . I do like the simplicity of the frontal design - some Philips models have lots of clashing colours and logos. However it seems to have a reputation for being better than a standard Philips , though it's hard to find any evidence to substantiate this . The Meridian and Mission variants had reworked analogue sections, but the 7550 looks to be completely standard.
I also subscribe to the LS3/5a forum on yahoo, as I have a pair of the Goodmans variety, and some manufacturers versions are considered better than others despite all conforming to a rigorous BBC specification. So some makers have more credibility than others
I would love to see either a schematic or photo of actually what is different in the 7550 from a standard Philips 104/304Mk1 ?
I also subscribe to the LS3/5a forum on yahoo, as I have a pair of the Goodmans variety, and some manufacturers versions are considered better than others despite all conforming to a rigorous BBC specification. So some makers have more credibility than others
I would love to see either a schematic or photo of actually what is different in the 7550 from a standard Philips 104/304Mk1 ?
Hallo everybody!
I've got a cd-104. It is functioning normaly. But there is one thing that bothering me. I opened the cover and noticed that some resistors and capacitors in a reverse side of the PCB are resoldered or, maybe, changed. I mean the little ones. Somebody used a lot of solder and it obvious that somebody repaired it earlier. Mainly the resistors and caps around sa7000 and in the output stage in bouth channels. Why did they do it? The only way to find the answer is to trace all connections and part nominals. Therefore, please somebody give me a compelete service manual on english. My E-Mail is solid_snake (AT) ukr.net
By the way, I saw some pictures of CD-104 in this forum, and I noticed that the transport mechanism in my player is different than in those on pictures. Others uses brushless CD drive motors, mine is not, also in my player transport is metalic, in others is aluminium (or..., could I be wrong?). And it looks compeletly different. Could it be CDM-0? My player is silver, not gray, maybee the oldest model.
I've got a cd-104. It is functioning normaly. But there is one thing that bothering me. I opened the cover and noticed that some resistors and capacitors in a reverse side of the PCB are resoldered or, maybe, changed. I mean the little ones. Somebody used a lot of solder and it obvious that somebody repaired it earlier. Mainly the resistors and caps around sa7000 and in the output stage in bouth channels. Why did they do it? The only way to find the answer is to trace all connections and part nominals. Therefore, please somebody give me a compelete service manual on english. My E-Mail is solid_snake (AT) ukr.net
By the way, I saw some pictures of CD-104 in this forum, and I noticed that the transport mechanism in my player is different than in those on pictures. Others uses brushless CD drive motors, mine is not, also in my player transport is metalic, in others is aluminium (or..., could I be wrong?). And it looks compeletly different. Could it be CDM-0? My player is silver, not gray, maybee the oldest model.
Hector Gonzales said:
Hi Hector, service guide is on it's way (12Mb !). Your player sounds very interesting. I assume it says it is a CD104 on the front ? Are you able to post some photographs ? The soldering you mention may be someone trying to solve the warm up/griplet problem by trial and error . Replacing the tiny surface mount caps around the TDA1540's is a recognised tweak, but not one I'd be brave enough to attempt
Hector Gonzales said:
As far as I know, all CD104 had the CDM1 transport which were metal. However, I have a REVOX B226S which is also listed as having a CDM1 but in fact has a CDM4 variant( I have one in aluminium and one in plastic). These were later than the CDM1. So your CD104 could be a late version. (I think it is sometimes refered to as CDM1 mk2)
Although most were all black, some were dark grey with a lighter colour drawer, some were all silver and there were some (very rare) gold versions not to be confused with Marantz models!
all black :-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Philips-CD-Pl...ryZ19642QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Light Grey :-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Philips-CD-10...ryZ19610QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Silver :-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PHILIPS-CD-10...oryZ3272QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Variation :-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Philips-CD-10...ryZ19610QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Andy
HI,
I have a cd7550 that is not working.
I rebuilt the ground soldering and controlled power supply voltages.
Upload regularly cd and laser pickup is positioned at the centre of the CD, then I see that you turn on the laser and 3 times up and down to the focus, but then not turn on the CD.
If detachment of the connector 29 of tray motor control cd begins to run (in practice forced the signal "DO").
So I exclude a problem to the spin motor circuit.
What can I control?
Maurizio
I have a cd7550 that is not working.
I rebuilt the ground soldering and controlled power supply voltages.
Upload regularly cd and laser pickup is positioned at the centre of the CD, then I see that you turn on the laser and 3 times up and down to the focus, but then not turn on the CD.
If detachment of the connector 29 of tray motor control cd begins to run (in practice forced the signal "DO").
So I exclude a problem to the spin motor circuit.
What can I control?
Maurizio
poynton said:
Ciao,
Yes i remake the ground connection with a wire on both board , i clear the lens.
The system not found the focus and then not spin the disk.
Is it possible know if system not find the focus?
I do not think that I would be broke pickup,
I would try every other possibility.
