Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

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kevinkr

kevinkr

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Joined 2004
kta-hifi.net
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aparatusonitus said:


Hi valo,

I used to have the same problem...found a few wary tiny cracks in display PSB board as well as main board. Use a magnifying glass and light bending to see offending PCB traces, solder them and you'll be back in business.
Click to expand...

This is very good advice, these boards are ROHS compliant and the solder connections do not handle flexing at all well. Look for connectors and components that have intermittent or open connections as well as possible cracks in the pcb. I have had problems with several of the connectors.

If you never over-voltaged the board the fact that you did not isolate the regulator tab from the heat sink should not have a bearing on the current problem you are seeing. Much more likely that some handling issue has occured. I assume you do take some rudimentary precautions against static electricity. (AKA ESD)
 
Erik van Voorst

Erik van Voorst

Member
Joined 2006
members.ziggo.nl/e.van.voorst/
Valo

You really got me curious now.....are you saying that in your Post 2506 we can see an OPEN (modified) Forsell and a CLOSED Forsell....I find that hard to believe....

I do am very interested in the cap 1 Farad story...maybe you have the links where these pics come from...or maybe you can tell more about it since I do not see this as off-topic...
 
valo

valo

Member
Joined 2003
polarboing.com
kevinkr said:


This is very good advice, these boards are ROHS compliant and the solder connections do not handle flexing at all well. Look for connectors and components that have intermittent or open connections as well as possible cracks in the pcb. I have had problems with several of the connectors.

If you never over-voltaged the board the fact that you did not isolate the regulator tab from the heat sink should not have a bearing on the current problem you are seeing. Much more likely that some handling issue has occured. I assume you do take some rudimentary precautions against static electricity. (AKA ESD)
Click to expand...


Hi again

I have been looking for cracks but no luck and the connectors looks fine too, its sad it did sound werry well and i was just about to finish the project ... but i guess my regulator or static electricity did murder it ..

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.



I did make my frame just like this one that Peter Daniel did , my regulator looks the same too but i dident use any isolation , so gnd on the reg has the same potensial as the mechanism

Anyway i did order two JVC RC-EZ51 today i got them verry verry cheap .. so i hope i learn from my mistake :)

Thanke for manny good tips
 
valo

valo

Member
Joined 2003
polarboing.com
Erik van Voorst said:
Valo

You really got me curious now.....are you saying that in your Post 2506 we can see an OPEN (modified) Forsell and a CLOSED Forsell....I find that hard to believe....

Its the same cdplayer, more pictures here in the norwegian forum hifisentralen

I do am very interested in the cap 1 Farad story...maybe you have the links where these pics come from...or maybe you can tell more about it since I do not see this as off-topic...
Click to expand...


I dont know so mutch about this player all i know is that it was modifyed buy an Norvegian guy called Birger Lund maby he is in this forum ..
 
aparatusonitus

aparatusonitus

Member
Joined 2004
valo said:
I have been looking for cracks but no luck and the connectors looks fine too, its sad it did sound werry well and i was just about to finish the project ... but i guess my regulator or static electricity did murder it...
Click to expand...

Hi valo,

Before you dump it tell me one thing: when you hit the door switch in order to read the TOC, what is the output voltage of your regulator and for how long? If it is much lower then ~7VDC for few sec, it can't read TOC for sure, I've tried it.
 
B

Badge

Member
Joined 2004
My unit is up and running. All that I need do is cut and install the top plate. The chassis is a two compartment box cast out of aluminum. It weighs 13 pounds. The rear compartment houses the power supply and the front has the transport. The display is separate from the chassis and mounted to the wood face. Wood sides and face are lace wood. Thanks to Peter and all here who helped.http://gallery.AudioAsylum.com/cgi/gi.mpl?u=4933&f=CDtransport.jpg
 
D

da-breuer

Member
Joined 2008
need help to buy a cd transport

hello, my name is daniel,

i found this thread because i whant to build a diy cd-player.

I've search for an jvc rc ez 31b but i don't find it, no one in shops and in ebay the same.

So is there an alternativ Player i can buy to get the transport out of them?

Sorry my english is very bad, but i hope you can help me.

thx daniel from germany
 
valo

valo

Member
Joined 2003
polarboing.com
Re: need help to buy a cd transport

da-breuer said:
hello, my name is daniel,

i found this thread because i whant to build a diy cd-player.

I've search for an jvc rc ez 31b but i don't find it, no one in shops and in ebay the same.

So is there an alternativ Player i can buy to get the transport out of them?

Sorry my english is very bad, but i hope you can help me.
Click to expand...

Hi you may use the JVC RC-EZ51H, and its easy to find in youre local shop cheap... iam using the EZ51



read more here
 
F

fraserh

Member
Joined 2008
Hello! I've given up on this, very happy with my ps1. If anyone still wants the mech for this then let me know. I have 2

I was in ASDA tonight and i'm pretty sure i saw the boombox sitting innocently on the shelf. I'll double check next time i'm there.. if anyone's still looking for one then let me know.
 
Erik van Voorst

Erik van Voorst

Member
Joined 2006
members.ziggo.nl/e.van.voorst/
For the very last time I disassembled everything in order to sandpaper, clean and paint it....
 

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