Yaqin SD-CD3 Tube Buffer - upgrading caps

Socket adapter

Oh yes, that's it .... instead of 6n8 schematic to put 6n1p-EV?
What should be the anode voltage + B =?
thank you and cheers!:cheers:

Is not a 6n1p a 9-pin tube and the CD3 is wired with 8-pin sockets? You would have to replace the sockets or acquire/make 9 -> 8 pin socket adapters which are somewhat costly.

Two New Tube Adaptor ECC85 6N1P 6H1N to 6SN7 or 6N2P to 6SL7 Free Shipping World | eBay

Why not put in two premium name-brand 6SN7 or 6SN7GT? Done, 2 minutes!
 
S

I'll put 6N7GT, it the sound gives ? We need some changes in the schematic?
thank you

This is I think the second or third time you have left out the "S" :eek:

6n7GT would be a different tube that exists but is probably wired differently.:headbash:

You WANT a 6SN7 or 6SN7GT or maybe 6SN7GTB 317 × 173 - en.wikipedia.org



There seems to be a good commentary on 6SN7 variants here:

https://www.tubeworld.com/6sn7.htm

There are some comments below about another more extreme MOD idea involving the 7193 single triode tube a MOD I may eventually DO:

AudiogoN Forums: Preamp Deal of the Century

More commentary about 7193 conversion:

6SN7GT vs 12au7 [Archive] - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
 
Hey guys, how are you all? I have been reading this thread with much interest, I just got one of these baby's and am looking to change the capacitors, BUT...

I've never done this before, I am going to learn how to solder first, then buy the capacitors, but I need help.

1) What wattage should the soldering iron be?

2) Do I need to buy a multimeter, and why and how do they work?

3) Does anyone know what the size of the blue caps are in the tube buffer so I can get correct size ones to replace them?

If I have missed anything out, or if there is anything I should know about changing caps, please let me know, I'm just a novice.

thanks
 
Hi guys!
Is the schematic should be like this?
 

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tazzo said:
If I have missed anything out, or if there is anything I should know about changing caps, please let me know, I'm just a novice.
Sorry to be boring, but my advice is "don't do it". The risk of damage is quite high if this will be your first soldering job, and the most likely outcome is no change at all in the performance of the unit. The second most likely outcome is that you break something, and then have insufficient knowledge to fix it.

There is a circuit diagram in this thread (I forget where). That will tell you the value of the caps.
 
Hello again. Hope you like the schematic.

I'm not a tech, though I've built some kits in my time. I'd appreciate some observations and corrections from the techs in residence.

First, judging from the schematic I've submitted, I'd say that all the capacitors and the 680 & 100K resistors are in the signal path. I concluded that the 20K resistor is not. I'd appreciate any corrections.

Second, in the interest of properly orienting any capacitor upgrades, could someone point out the source and destination or ground sides of the capacitor positions judging from the supplied schematic?

Third, a very vexing issue. There's no damn difference whether my unit is on or off. That is, the system continues to play music when I shut off power to the Yaquin. There's no sonic difference whether on or off. When the unit is turned on, it's 'instant on' with no tube warm up, or turn-on thumps, and likewise when I turn the Yaquin off, there is no shut-down thump and the music continues to play merrily along.

Is it plausible that this unit acts as a 'straight wire' connection when powered down? Or have we been scammed? It just seems improbable that an active circuit would behave like this.

My connection scheme is DAC > Yaquin buffer > passive stepped attenuator > amp.

Any help is more than appreciated.

See post #113!!;)
 
Mono-Block question cont'd

I don't understand your question, but a buffer cannot be used as s monoblock or any amplifier as it provides no gain by design.

the tubes used in this buffer are dual triodes, and each tube has those triodes wired in parallel in the circuit, so, in a way you are already getting both segments of each tube, per-channel. If you found a way to mono-block as you say, I doubt you would hear anything much different. Now, it is more likely that sonics could be impacted/changed some by tube swapping, or modding to take the various other options like 6F8G, {or if I had a CD3, maybe the 7193}. Or just try better 6SN7s. 6n16b-v might be a simple experiment, solder some leads to a pair, or use socket-savers to adapt them.