That was just an example.
What about:13.5uF + 6.2 = 19.8uF
13.5uF + 7.5 = 21uF
Either combo will work. Just an example though. Solen PB is also a reasonable choice. I think it's the same cap but a little more expensive.
In this example, the Clarity ESA's are overkill. Your goal is to be cheaper than the Mundorf MKP's right? If I were you I'd stick with the MKP's so you can compare and listen for yourself the effects on your sound quality the bypass cap has. But, if you can't find them, another choice for the same money is the Clarity PX series
Best,
Erik
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Just wanted to point out you aren't the first person to try to modify their 9.1's. I found an Italian site of a discussion about them, and even here several existing old thread. Sadly they didn't have a great guru like me (hahaha) to guide them.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...y-benefit-replacing-old-electrolytic-cap.html
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php?topic=38774.180
This is for the 10.1, but the cap crossover looks identical, the user measured his coils though. Sadly the woofer crossover is not nearly the same one:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/272143-inside-wharfedale-diamond-10-1-a-4.html
I'm trying to find out if anyone knows what those inductors are though, I'd love to see you replace that woofer coil before the 20uF caps.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...y-benefit-replacing-old-electrolytic-cap.html
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php?topic=38774.180
This is for the 10.1, but the cap crossover looks identical, the user measured his coils though. Sadly the woofer crossover is not nearly the same one:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/272143-inside-wharfedale-diamond-10-1-a-4.html
I'm trying to find out if anyone knows what those inductors are though, I'd love to see you replace that woofer coil before the 20uF caps.
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Hi Pico,
Yes, you are right of course! But the issue is price. DATS is very accurate and $99 plus gives speaker parameters.
The only LCR meters I know of which are as accurate are $300 or more. If you know of a cheaper alternative, please post a link.
Erik
Now that IS pretty cool!
Do you happen to know if it can do distance calculations?Best,
Erik
Since I'm not an ARTA user, Ivo is a better person to answer any questions.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/76977-arta-46.html#post4549087
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/76977-arta-46.html#post4549087
Never mind. Doing some research I figured out a better way to do this with what I have. ARTA looks very cool though, especially for free.
Best,
Erik
I have spent just over £50 in caps resisters and damping for my Wharfdale 9.1.This morning after spending a fair few hours last night damping the cabinets and replacing the 20 uf cap with two 10uf mundorf mkp in parallel i started to listen to them.After listening to them for a couple of minutes i thought id better turn of my sub and it wasnt on.The difference the mods have made to these very cheap speakers to my mind for very little outlay is amazing .Im not stupid easily led and very opened minded and dont believe in fairies.I dont want to get into an argument.Maybe its because they are very cheap that changing things do make a difference.I would of thought if you did the same mods with expensive speaker it would make little difference.Like i said thank you all for your input and knowledge.Next for me in the new year is modding my t amp as i now have the bug .
It has been suggested that i could change the driver to full range .What do yo think.
It has been suggested that i could change the driver to full range .What do yo think.
Hi Hixy,
I am in the camp that the sound you hear is additive effect of everything in series with the drivers. The other camp, which I do not subscribe to, is that your drivers need to be high enough quality to tell a difference. What I do agree with is that you won't be able to turn a cheap tweeter into a very good one no matter how many caps you add.
Your own experience has shown shown that inexpensive speakers are quite revealing in capacitor differences. I think in more expensive speakers the difference would be more about what quality of caps you start from, and might not be in the right direction, just depends. On the other hand, a higher quality driver (which may or may not be in an expensive speaker!) justifies more expensive parts.
I wouldn't change the driver. I think those are nice as is. If you want to change drivers, you might as well go off and start building your own speakers. Besides, you just spent all this money improving the crossover, why go crossoverless now? Enjoy your results and look to a new project.
Best,
Erik
I am in the camp that the sound you hear is additive effect of everything in series with the drivers. The other camp, which I do not subscribe to, is that your drivers need to be high enough quality to tell a difference. What I do agree with is that you won't be able to turn a cheap tweeter into a very good one no matter how many caps you add.
Your own experience has shown shown that inexpensive speakers are quite revealing in capacitor differences. I think in more expensive speakers the difference would be more about what quality of caps you start from, and might not be in the right direction, just depends. On the other hand, a higher quality driver (which may or may not be in an expensive speaker!) justifies more expensive parts.
I wouldn't change the driver. I think those are nice as is. If you want to change drivers, you might as well go off and start building your own speakers.
Besides, you just spent all this money improving the crossover, why go crossoverless now? Enjoy your results and look to a new project. Best,
Erik
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Hey Hixy, I am curious though, did you ever try just the woofer caps, or did you make that change with dampening materials?
I am really super curious to know how much of an effect that can have, I've never done that experiment by itself. I always thought the improvements would come from the series coil, so if you showed otherwise it would teach me something.
Best,
Erik
Firstly i changed the tweeter cap sto a mundorf and the resister to 2r7 12w mra12 mills,Just doing that the difference was amazing so i thought id change the 20 uf for the same mundorf but 2 x10uf in parallel also i damped all the surfaces with 10 mm felt.The speakers are completely different to what they were but i dont know if there better in a proper hifi sense of the word but they do sound nicer to me
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