Installed Xsim and im like what the hell but will have a look tomorow evening and see if i can use the software and do the schematic.Thank you all very much for your input
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It's really easy. You only have 5 types of devices to worry about when tracing out your crossover:
1. Copper lines on the PCB or wires are the lines. Put them in after your components are in XSim.
2. The white square is a resistor.
3. The --| |-- is a capacitor.
4. The --UUUU-- is a coil aka inductor.
5. Of course, the speakers are self evident.
XSim schematic Steps:
Put your parts down. Rotate them with "R" use the picture some one else posted as a guide to arranging them.
Wire them together OR place the end points on top of each other. XSim is nice that way. To add copper/wiring hold down the mouse on one end of a part and drag to the next. If there's a black dot, it will connect.
Right click and "Tune" to select the part values. Ignore anything you don't understand. For now also you don't know your coil (i.e. inductor) values so leave them at default.
Save a pic of your schematic for us and post it here.
The goal of this exercise is for you to learn how the PCB translates to a schematic, and vice versa. Don't just follow the example schematic blindly. Look at your board, and start from the amplifier connectors and try to work your way towards one specific driver.
Trace out one driver at a time. Go from the red terminal, and try to get to your tweeter. On your way to the tweeter you will probably discover the 8.2uF cap or the resistor. Probably one then the other. So, jot this down on paper, something like this:
o------[ Pretend this is a resistor symbol, a rectangle ]-----||------[]<
That's a really horrible way to represent it, but that's how you would draw it out in XSim.
For ease of drawing, we use the ground symbol to say "these are all going to the amp negative terminal" so you don't have to draw every single return line. You can though. Attach one to the other tweeter terminal.
Do the same for the woofer.
Done!
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IMO, that's good advice for any changes. Change one speaker at a time.
It is different than the common practice of changing both drivers and then declaring that the sound is better than 'remembered' from days or weeks before, which requires the mythical 'golden ears'!
If done right, she'll be needing it on a frequent basis - at least for a while - so pace yourself, and try to avoid the internet - it's full of bad things that can waste your time and rot your brain
like this forum
right i have changed the resister and the cap on the treble side of things on one speakers and they sound different so something has happened the only way i can explain it is the treble sounds different and also like its a foot closer to me .Where before voice were dead central they are now off centre towards the speaker with the changed caps .The new resister is 12 watt where the old one was 7 so is it that
HI Hixy,
In general, no, going from a 7 to greater wattage should not change the sound, however the larger the resistor is in W, the less noise they tend to have. Whether it's even possible to hear such low noise at all I doubt, but there you have it. I believe this is most noticable in low voltage applications with lots of gain instead of speakers.
The only thing the wattage changes is the safety margin. Depending on where a resistor is in the crossover, it can get very hot very fast, or not hot at all. The higher the wattage, the greater the heat the individual part can dissipate without affecting it's performance. So long as you go to equal or greater wattage you will always be fine when it comes to resistors.
What brands of replacements are you using?
Erik
Hello this 8.2 uf cap .Mundorf Mcap MKP capacitors | Hifi Collective and this resisiter (RES-M1110) - 2R7 12W MRA12 Mills Resistor (2.7R) | Hifi Collective
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