Capacitors add in parallel, so you can do 5 x 4uF, 2x 10uF, 10 x 2uF, whatever. They all add up to 20.
I think it would be interesting to learn if that has a big effect. Most feel that the components in parallel with the driver are less important than in series. I would not do this at first so you can learn for yourself what each individual mod does. Do the resistor and 8.2uF cap on both speakers. Listen for a couple of days, takes about that long to ensure caps won't change their character.
Then do the 20uF cap. Repeat. Do you find a difference? Yes? No? Remember your findings for when you work on your next mod or speaker.
Now you'll know how much to spend on the parallel cap for yourself.
Also, for the woofer, I'd be more interested in seeing you change the big coil first but you'd probably need to measure it or find a marking to indicate the value. If you are stuck with what you have then I'd do the 20uF cap.
This is all a learning exercise, and you are very lucky to have a very simple crossover to modify. This means you can afford to do it all, and do it one step at a time. This is the best way to learn.
Best,
Erik
I think it would be interesting to learn if that has a big effect. Most feel that the components in parallel with the driver are less important than in series. I would not do this at first so you can learn for yourself what each individual mod does. Do the resistor and 8.2uF cap on both speakers. Listen for a couple of days, takes about that long to ensure caps won't change their character.
Then do the 20uF cap. Repeat. Do you find a difference? Yes? No? Remember your findings for when you work on your next mod or speaker.
Now you'll know how much to spend on the parallel cap for yourself. Also, for the woofer, I'd be more interested in seeing you change the big coil first but you'd probably need to measure it or find a marking to indicate the value. If you are stuck with what you have then I'd do the 20uF cap.
This is all a learning exercise, and you are very lucky to have a very simple crossover to modify. This means you can afford to do it all, and do it one step at a time. This is the best way to learn.
Best,
Erik
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Here's a pic for clarity. C1 + C2 add up to 20uF because they are in parallel with each other.
C3/C4 divide because they are in series.
Note that what matters when adding or dividing capacitance is whether the caps are parallel or in series to each other, not the driver. In this case, all 4 caps are in series with their drivers. If there were a capacitor that touched both terminals of S1, we'd call it in parallel with the driver. And these parallel components are considered less critical. In your case, the 20uF cap is in parallel with the woofer, and therefore less critical than the resistor and 8.2uF cap, which are in series with your tweeter.
C3/C4 divide because they are in series.
Note that what matters when adding or dividing capacitance is whether the caps are parallel or in series to each other, not the driver. In this case, all 4 caps are in series with their drivers. If there were a capacitor that touched both terminals of S1, we'd call it in parallel with the driver. And these parallel components are considered less critical. In your case, the 20uF cap is in parallel with the woofer, and therefore less critical than the resistor and 8.2uF cap, which are in series with your tweeter.
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If you put them side by side the values ADD.
So for instance, if you had 14uF and 6uF in parallel you'd get 20. Very useful for getting fine values. For instance, only a few manufacturers make 7.5uF caps. So you can use a 6.8uF + 0.68uF to get 7.48uF, well within the normal 3% variability of most caps anyway. The division of serial caps is more complicated but in series in THIS particular case you end up with 1/4 the capacitance you paid for. You pay for 20uF but get 5uF. This requires more math than you want to learn right now, but it's not hugely difficult. I'd start with learning how resistors add and divide in parallel/serial. Then learning how to do this with caps and inductors is easier.
Best,
Erik
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two resistors in parellel have an effective resistance given by
Reff = (R1*R2)/(R1+R2)
That formula only works for two resistors.
If you use the alternative formula you can find Reff for any number of any value when they are paralleled.
1/Reff = 1/R1 + 1/R2 +.......+ 1/Rn
Use the reiprocal key on a calculator, or on the MS calculator in the PC software.
enter R1 then reciprocal that entry, add R2 then reciprocal (it calculates the reciprocal and THEN adds that result to the previous total).
eg 10||20||33 = 1 / {0.1+0.05+0.030303} = 1 / {0.180303}
take the reciprocal of that final total and you have 5r54622 as the result.
Capacitors in series "add" up using the same formula for resistors in parallel (Yes, sounds a bit back to front).
1/Ceff = 1/C1 +1/C2+ .... +1/Cn
and when you have ONLY two capacitors in series use the simpler formula
Ceff = (C1*C2)/(C1+C2)
Reff = (R1*R2)/(R1+R2)
That formula only works for two resistors.
If you use the alternative formula you can find Reff for any number of any value when they are paralleled.
1/Reff = 1/R1 + 1/R2 +.......+ 1/Rn
Use the reiprocal key on a calculator, or on the MS calculator in the PC software.
enter R1 then reciprocal that entry, add R2 then reciprocal (it calculates the reciprocal and THEN adds that result to the previous total).
eg 10||20||33 = 1 / {0.1+0.05+0.030303} = 1 / {0.180303}
take the reciprocal of that final total and you have 5r54622 as the result.
Capacitors in series "add" up using the same formula for resistors in parallel (Yes, sounds a bit back to front).
1/Ceff = 1/C1 +1/C2+ .... +1/Cn
and when you have ONLY two capacitors in series use the simpler formula
Ceff = (C1*C2)/(C1+C2)
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I cannot believe how much difference changing a couple of caps has made to the sound of my speakers,is it better in the true HIFI sense of things i really dont know but do they sound nicer to me yes they do .Do you think that maybe they are built to a price and to keep prices down they use cheaper componants ?.
Closed cel weather strip/draft exclusion tape.
Something like this: Master Lock E/O 3/8 in. x 5/16 in. x 10 ft. Black High-Density Rubber Foam Weatherstrip Tape-R538H - The Home Depot
(althou thinner would be nice).
dave
I can imagine the result: "It seems the mids and highs are ever so slightly cleaner, but the bass extension just isn't what it used to be." Yeah, the main effect of those big caps is to reduce the cabinet volume!
What have you changed so far? Leave them playing for a couple of days and you will hear if they break in. The mkps for me took about 4 days or so. Listen for yourself.
Truth is 90 of listeners don't care. It's all hamburger and fries to them unless they are used to fine dining. Then they realize how much better it could be. For this reason even megabucks speaker makers won't spent a few dollars for better sound OR they use the caps to differentiate the high end from the midline, charging hundreds of dollars more for $20 more in parts.
Of course all makers are different, but this is a trend in mass market products.
Erik
Truth is 90 of listeners don't care. It's all hamburger and fries to them unless they are used to fine dining. Then they realize how much better it could be. For this reason even megabucks speaker makers won't spent a few dollars for better sound OR they use the caps to differentiate the high end from the midline, charging hundreds of dollars more for $20 more in parts.
Of course all makers are different, but this is a trend in mass market products.
Erik
Another reason for recommending the Mundorf MKP line for this type of empirical research. They are tiny by comparison to the Supremes. If you replace an electrolytic with the MKP and dont hear a difference, you've spent $8 learning for yourself. To me that knowledge s worth hundreds of dollars either way and far better than reading all the opinions on caps online.
A recent government study proved that 30% of all storage used on the internet was to store discussions about high end capacitors. The rest was all porn.
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Here you go! You should be able to find Axon's too. I know Focal uses them in bypass caps in some of their most expensive speakers. They are about half the price of the equivalent Mundorf MKP.
Axon 20uF for $4.31
I'd really like your opinion to see if these work for you.
Best,
Erik
A 12+8 at Falcon:
ClarityCap 12.00uF ESA 250V Capacitor, Free UK Delivery, superb combination of price & value.
ClarityCap 8.00uF ESA 250V Capacitor, Free UK Delivery, superb combination of price & value.
They probably have more. eMail Jerry and ask.
dave
ClarityCap 12.00uF ESA 250V Capacitor, Free UK Delivery, superb combination of price & value.
ClarityCap 8.00uF ESA 250V Capacitor, Free UK Delivery, superb combination of price & value.
They probably have more. eMail Jerry and ask.
dave
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