One has to take a little bit of care and remember that the amps are the last thing to be switched on and the first to be switched off. ALWAYS!
So far my Tannoy tweeters (rated at 25W) are fine after years without any protective cap in front of them.
For the ribbons though I took the belt-and-braces approach and given them an 18dB high pass well below their xover point.
That is a very good question!
The best I've come across by far is the one in the MC2 Audio MC series amps but I don't think it is an option for diy.
These amps are digitally controlled (they are not digital or class D amps by any means), when switched on a microprocessor runs a diagnostics programme and when it finds everything to be in order it slowly fades up the supply rail voltage to the normal operating level. Conversely should the amp ever be in danger of overheating the processor will fade down the supply rail voltage until the cooling system can cope again rather than switching off altogether. Once everything is tickety boo it will fade up to normal level again.
The simplest might be a time-delayed relay switch but these still have a small click coming through the speakers and as far as I know do nothing to stop DC from a seriously malfunctioning amp.
Something like this should do the trick:
2-Channel Loudspeaker Protection Kit | K4700 | 5410329047009
Rod Elliott also offers a protection board as Colin mentioned above:
Loudspeaker Protection and Muting
I do not know which one may be preferable. At a push I'd opt for Rod Elliots version but that is only for reasons of gut instinct rather than any actual knowledge on my side.
The best I've come across by far is the one in the MC2 Audio MC series amps but I don't think it is an option for diy.
These amps are digitally controlled (they are not digital or class D amps by any means), when switched on a microprocessor runs a diagnostics programme and when it finds everything to be in order it slowly fades up the supply rail voltage to the normal operating level. Conversely should the amp ever be in danger of overheating the processor will fade down the supply rail voltage until the cooling system can cope again rather than switching off altogether. Once everything is tickety boo it will fade up to normal level again.
The simplest might be a time-delayed relay switch but these still have a small click coming through the speakers and as far as I know do nothing to stop DC from a seriously malfunctioning amp.
Something like this should do the trick:
2-Channel Loudspeaker Protection Kit | K4700 | 5410329047009
Rod Elliott also offers a protection board as Colin mentioned above:
Loudspeaker Protection and Muting
I do not know which one may be preferable. At a push I'd opt for Rod Elliots version but that is only for reasons of gut instinct rather than any actual knowledge on my side.
Sorry but I'm of the purist ilk. I personally don't like anything in the way of the path of electrons to the loudspeaker. Relay contacts are a definite NO in my book.
Using the Pass amps, Nelson has never had a failure as far as I know. They are constructed to protect the speakers by virtue of their "bombproof" design.
Using the Pass amps, Nelson has never had a failure as far as I know. They are constructed to protect the speakers by virtue of their "bombproof" design.
Are you going to finish the cabinets (including the piano black etc) before fitting the drivers, or are you going to give them a try in unfinished cabs first?
One of my xovers had the relays removed since they failed and no currently available ones physically fit.
I can't hear any difference between left and right channels.
When you do get them bear in mind that the mids are fitted from inside the cabs, if the same as the old Prestige, this means reaching in through the bass driver aperture to put the mid in place. You might do well to have someone assist you (with putting screws in quickly) because the combination of contortion and the mass of the driver makes accidents more likely. You will see what I mean when you get the mid domes - they are a lot of kilos!
I agree. I had some KEF R105s which had inline fuses in them (in series with the speaker leads) and shorting them out wasn't noticeably different.
Well after a great deal of deliberation, I'm going to build a Pass F5 to handle the tweeters.
I'm trying to keep the "voice" fairly standard so using Pass amps to both Mid and High. The Bass IMO is not quite so important, it'll still have a High-Quality amp but doesn't need to have the same voice below about 400Hz.
I was going to opt for the Pass F3 but I'd have to make my own PCBs and I'd prefer to buy them pre-made.
I'm trying to keep the "voice" fairly standard so using Pass amps to both Mid and High. The Bass IMO is not quite so important, it'll still have a High-Quality amp but doesn't need to have the same voice below about 400Hz.
I was going to opt for the Pass F3 but I'd have to make my own PCBs and I'd prefer to buy them pre-made.
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