No Guts. No Glory!
Sizing the output stage, power supply and cooling for the worst case speaker load at maximum SPL requirements is a good starting exercise. I've attached LTspice for an example current feedback amp you can test your ESL load with.
I've owned Krell KMA100s and highly recommend them. Worth some simulation time.
Sizing the output stage, power supply and cooling for the worst case speaker load at maximum SPL requirements is a good starting exercise. I've attached LTspice for an example current feedback amp you can test your ESL load with.
I've owned Krell KMA100s and highly recommend them. Worth some simulation time.
Attachments
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
maybe this?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/245619-tgm8-amplifier-based-rod-elliot-p3a.html
perhaps add additional helper mosfets to boost ability into low resistance loads.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/245619-tgm8-amplifier-based-rod-elliot-p3a.html
perhaps add additional helper mosfets to boost ability into low resistance loads.
Big 5 pair MT-200 slewmaster running 40V rails could drive <1R load.
The difference is that you would be running 1/2Kw (1-2R) at a 2V input.
My 2 CFA modules could be "tamed" to lesser gains.
I mentioned this as the "hiraga" seems to be a very basic CFA "VSSA" with
just shunt regulation (maybe -60db PSSR / 100-200ppm).
Some of the newer CFA's are >-100db psrr and <10ppm/20k.
So , class AB + the better specs might win out over class A +
the simpler design ??
OS
The difference is that you would be running 1/2Kw (1-2R) at a 2V input.
My 2 CFA modules could be "tamed" to lesser gains.
I mentioned this as the "hiraga" seems to be a very basic CFA "VSSA" with
just shunt regulation (maybe -60db PSSR / 100-200ppm).
Some of the newer CFA's are >-100db psrr and <10ppm/20k.
So , class AB + the better specs might win out over class A +
the simpler design ??
OS
Ok guys,
I know it's very subjective, but I would like to start a new build. I am the happy owner of a Hiraga 30 Watt Class A amplifier. It sounds so sweet! I honestly don't know what could compare or sound even better than the one I built.
But, I must keep goingThe DIY-er in me is shouting! I just do not want to build something that sounds mediocre. I want to built something that will sound better and sweeter than my Hiraga.
I use it with the DCB1 preamp(Salas) whitch is slightly hotrodded(200mA)
So, I need some expert input from all you DIY-ers
My soldering station is ready to come out of hiding
I do not know what do you mean 'better'. If you want high H2 distortion then you should build tube amplifier, single ended triode is better.
If you want lowest distortion, solid state is simple and best way to go. You can find many interesting design in here.
If you want something in between, you can try Nelson Pass or Hugh Dean's design.
Ok, I got some great ideas from you guys. Some questions too...
What I mean with: I want to make something that's better than the Hiraga, I mean even faster, more power and, if possible, more transparent. The aim is to recreate sound as it is intended to be. I know, that is a tall order, but I think it can be done. For instance, when I go to a concert of, let's say Nils Lofgren, I want that exact sound coming out of my gear at home.
To (try and) achieve that, I have tweaked everything in the set to sound as neutral as possible(subjective). After that I started to change details that made a huge difference, like resistors and capacitors, even cabling inside the gear. I have discovered that the Hiraga 30Watt version sounds(for me anyway) most transparent when hooked up to 29VDC Rail instead of the mentioned 33~35VDC. It sounded really good when I used the Hypex HxR regulators tweaked to 22Volts, but even better with the Kubota regulator just 3 volts under the rail voltage. Oh well, I have tried it all!
So, I think I just about reached the limit of what this thing can do.... And it is close, really close to what I want to achieve.
Two things entered my mind:
1-Make an even better power amp
2-make the preamp even more neutral and transparent by incorporating LDR attenuation.
The second thing I will definately do. But I think my Hiraga is just a tad under powered to drive the panels. But it is really fast!!!! I have not heard an amp that is faster than mine yet.... But hey, I just started!
What I mean with: I want to make something that's better than the Hiraga, I mean even faster, more power and, if possible, more transparent. The aim is to recreate sound as it is intended to be. I know, that is a tall order, but I think it can be done. For instance, when I go to a concert of, let's say Nils Lofgren, I want that exact sound coming out of my gear at home.
To (try and) achieve that, I have tweaked everything in the set to sound as neutral as possible(subjective). After that I started to change details that made a huge difference, like resistors and capacitors, even cabling inside the gear. I have discovered that the Hiraga 30Watt version sounds(for me anyway) most transparent when hooked up to 29VDC Rail instead of the mentioned 33~35VDC. It sounded really good when I used the Hypex HxR regulators tweaked to 22Volts, but even better with the Kubota regulator just 3 volts under the rail voltage. Oh well, I have tried it all!
So, I think I just about reached the limit of what this thing can do.... And it is close, really close to what I want to achieve.
Two things entered my mind:
1-Make an even better power amp
2-make the preamp even more neutral and transparent by incorporating LDR attenuation.
The second thing I will definately do. But I think my Hiraga is just a tad under powered to drive the panels. But it is really fast!!!! I have not heard an amp that is faster than mine yet.... But hey, I just started!
Last edited:
Oh, to clarify something, I am a hobbyist. And I mean a real hobbyist. I have no real knowledge of electronics(the most difficult book I own on the subject is Electronics for dummies) and only build stuff in winter time. I am blessed with really good hearing(so my doctor and audio-freak friends say) but that will not last forever
I love to build new stuff, even when I know I will never incorporate it in my livingroom. It is fun!
But, I do own a DMM and a nice soldering station And I love to please my ears. DIYAUDIO.COM has shown me that even I can make something that sounds really good! I love this forum and without it I would be horribly lost.
Anyway, it's a hobby. And a hobby costs money and time. But my guess is that I will never spend the amount of money on this hobby than what you have to spend to buy gear that sounds just as good.
I love to build new stuff, even when I know I will never incorporate it in my livingroom. It is fun!
But, I do own a DMM and a nice soldering station
And I love to please my ears. DIYAUDIO.COM has shown me that even I can make something that sounds really good! I love this forum and without it I would be horribly lost. Anyway, it's a hobby. And a hobby costs money and time. But my guess is that I will never spend the amount of money on this hobby than what you have to spend to buy gear that sounds just as good.
Last edited:
Load
Nope, I think not many DIY amps can deal with them the way this one does. I even had it hooked up on a coulpe of Final 1.4 panels that go down to 0.2 Ohm at 20 Watts load. My baby did not blink
Nope, I think not many DIY amps can deal with them the way this one does. I even had it hooked up on a coulpe of Final 1.4 panels that go down to 0.2 Ohm at 20 Watts load. My baby did not blink
I find it a bit odd that the Hiraga is labeled as just a VSSA, the fact is that the Hiraga is an old but very very good current feedback Class A design, I rate it first class, it is expansive and dynamic in the way it plays, most likely due to the high idle in the output pair. Some of the designs in the CFA rumble thread shares most aspects but at higher power levels. Of those published I rate the spooky leaches as the best.
Built an Hiraga some time ago,sounded "mellow".or "woolly",depending on your point of view.Went on to build a J.L-H class A using Toshiba 2SC5200s:sounded sharp and a little too bright.My latest amp is the Graham Maynard GEM 25 with mods.: 100R pot between the i/p PNPs emitters(to trim o/p to zero) and replacing the bootstrap with an LM317 as a constant current source( see data sheet for use as a CCS, R= 12R+100R pot) adjust for required current in output 2SC5200s).This,plus the reduced values of the feedback components (see my previous posts),has definitely produced my best sounding system to date.
Using a Blu-ray player as a source instead of a CD player for music resulted in an incredible improvement in sonic detail.Give it a try!
Using a Blu-ray player as a source instead of a CD player for music resulted in an incredible improvement in sonic detail.Give it a try!
@ Sjoerd Smits @ Diyers
20 watts Hiraga the genuine one from " La Maison d'Audiophile " in Paris
20 watts Hiraga the genuine one from " La Maison d'Audiophile " in Paris
Attachments
Interesting! Thanks for the photo. I don't remember the black cap version Just the ones with red caps.
It took me some time to get used to, thinking it was too smooth. But with time I came to realize that it was superb at tiny details, like the sound of a concert hall, that were lacking in a lot of other amps. No idea why that would be.
Of course, another amp might work better with a given pair of speakers. That's often the case. But I loved the Hiraga 20W for it's natural, unstrained sound. The Kaneda 40W was maybe even better.
My point of view would be "smooth." Like acoustical sounds in nature. It lacked that hard edge, electronic coloration that so many SS amps have. Some tube amps, too.
It took me some time to get used to, thinking it was too smooth. But with time I came to realize that it was superb at tiny details, like the sound of a concert hall, that were lacking in a lot of other amps. No idea why that would be.
Of course, another amp might work better with a given pair of speakers. That's often the case. But I loved the Hiraga 20W for it's natural, unstrained sound. The Kaneda 40W was maybe even better.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.