I've used RatShacks .022 diameter 62/36/2 silver bearing solder since the first solder joint I ever made. I've done quite a bit of smd work with it and have never had any cold joint issues.
When I run out I can make a quick run to the local shack and be home soldering again within 30 minutes, no waiting for the mailman to bring more.
On a completely offtrack side note; solder and the occasional resistor is about all that company is good for. Seems like 90% of their store is cell phones and radio control vehicles these days.
When I run out I can make a quick run to the local shack and be home soldering again within 30 minutes, no waiting for the mailman to bring more.
On a completely offtrack side note; solder and the occasional resistor is about all that company is good for. Seems like 90% of their store is cell phones and radio control vehicles these days.
Hi,
My firm must have supplied the correct materials , cause I found making a copper to lead wiped joint as part of my training very easy and I am "only" 55. I even repeated it when I moved the gas meter. Training comes in handy sometimes.
Now back to topic.
What solder/solder paste and what flux do you recommend for SMD?
something lacking in your education if you only got to watch.
My firm must have supplied the correct materials , cause I found making a copper to lead wiped joint as part of my training very easy and I am "only" 55. I even repeated it when I moved the gas meter. Training comes in handy sometimes.
Now back to topic.
What solder/solder paste and what flux do you recommend for SMD?
It has been generally noted that RS solder can be problematic. Just consider were they source it from. It could be less than the best. However, SN62 2% solder is usually the best overall solder type. I use it almost exclusively. In fact, I don't even use SN63, because it does not have any silver in it, and silver makes it sound better. (I know, I know, let me prove it with a DB test). Just my professional opinion that wins a lot of listening contests.
The OTHER component of solder is the flux that is inside. Bad flux means bad soldering, really, really, really! I know because I have a spool of Wonder Solder that I paid big bucks for, and it will NOT solder anything. It melts like dog doo (sorry that it my most apt description, and SY I will prove it to you, if you want to). I also have a replacement roll of the same stuff that works OK, from the same vendor, go figure!
The OTHER component of solder is the flux that is inside. Bad flux means bad soldering, really, really, really! I know because I have a spool of Wonder Solder that I paid big bucks for, and it will NOT solder anything. It melts like dog doo (sorry that it my most apt description, and SY I will prove it to you, if you want to). I also have a replacement roll of the same stuff that works OK, from the same vendor, go figure!
Dog doo? Haven't tried that yet. Wonder/TRT must have changed its solder formula or supplier since the beginning. I stocked up on the original stuff (pre- “UltraClear”) many years ago, despite the ludicrous claims that that company made about everything they sell. I keep numerous types of solder on hand and have used many more through the years. I have never seen anything that works as well as the original Wonder Solder. By "work" I mean how it readily melts and wets joints. I easily make the opposite of cold joints with it. I guess that would be “hot joints”? Shiny, smooth, thorough fillet flows.
I use Kester and Alpha 63/37 for everyday stuff like TV repairs (OK, who repairs TVs these days). For audio projects in non-critical places (let’s not go there) I use Kester “44” in the Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 mixture. It works pretty well, and is probably a good all-round recommendation.
For final implementations of projects in critical areas, I break out the candles, light some incense, dim the lights, play some Enya, and lovingly take the old Wonder Solder out of the vault.
Haven’t tried WBT solder yet though…
I use Kester and Alpha 63/37 for everyday stuff like TV repairs (OK, who repairs TVs these days). For audio projects in non-critical places (let’s not go there) I use Kester “44” in the Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 mixture. It works pretty well, and is probably a good all-round recommendation.
For final implementations of projects in critical areas, I break out the candles, light some incense, dim the lights, play some Enya, and lovingly take the old Wonder Solder out of the vault.
Haven’t tried WBT solder yet though…
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