Is that connecting the rca GND to the usb GND?
Yes, you are correct. Just try it, only one small shortcut and may be it helps you
627BP is an expensive opamp, are you sure it is genuine? Have you bought it from a reliable source? Having said that the ones I have come from boards from China so not sure if they are genuine or fake....I am not that impressed as well ...with the parts I have...
Old 5534 or new JRC one has the same datasheet schematics and characteristics so there is no reason to not sound the same. Personally, I do not like this old 5534 opamp since it may sound more detailed but to me it is simply colouring the original sound and is not natural.
You may want to start experimenting with reasonable price more state-of-the-art parts like OPA1611 or OPA1641. 1611 is more dynamic on the bass than 1641, but the 1641 has an exquisite sound which is detailed but more natural and less fatiguing than 5534... You can even get free samples from Texas Instruments if you register on their web site...
I also prefer the 1611/1641 to the AD797 .
Fab
Yes, my 627s are definitely the real ones, si è I bought them on a trusted italian site.
I'll go for some TI 1611 or 1641. Unfortunately when I previously ordered for free from them I received some smd parts: I will need some sockets...
Thanks!
Dual AD825 on an adapter is good. Sweet treble.
If you're going to spend more, then rather than the 627, my favourite is undoubtedly Sparkos Labs - it's a good size (other discretes like Burson, Dexa and Audio-GD are too big) and sounds very clinical. More like a studio sound.
Mmm, I tried some GD discrete ones in the past but was not my cup of tea...
Actually I Did not touch anything... How would you bias them?Have you tried to bias the op627?
It is a whole different animal after doing that, before it was just an above average op amp.
Bias op627?
Reading the Data-sheet of Op627, do you mean using an heatsink and/or metal can package or reduce voltage supplies to reduce input current of the opamp?
Fab
Have you tried to bias the op627?
It is a whole different animal after doing that, before it was just an above average op amp.
Actually I Did not touch anything... How would you bias them?
Reading the Data-sheet of Op627, do you mean using an heatsink and/or metal can package or reduce voltage supplies to reduce input current of the opamp?
Fab
Do a search for "the op627 really sings" here on diyaudio, and you'll find lots of info.
Just make sure to solder to the adaptor pins and try to keep heat away from the opa627 pins.
I will.
I am trying to follow this scheme but there is no "green ero" cap in latest version, so could someone pkease point which are the caps to be switched to 2200pF here?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
All of the smaller, square capacitors are polyester I beleive, and the values are in code next to each one, as well as on the parts themselves.
The 220 pf ones are "221".
I replaced them all with some fkp1, or fkp2, depending on what the local parts store had around.
Might want to practice soldering on some old boards first to get a feel for the temperature and how the tip can work to find the holes and clear them a bit without overheating the board, etc.
The 220 pf ones are "221".
I replaced them all with some fkp1, or fkp2, depending on what the local parts store had around.
Might want to practice soldering on some old boards first to get a feel for the temperature and how the tip can work to find the holes and clear them a bit without overheating the board, etc.
All of the smaller, square capacitors are polyester I beleive, and the values are in code next to each one, as well as on the parts themselves.
The 220 pf ones are "221".
I replaced them all with some fkp1, or fkp2, depending on what the local parts store had around.
Might want to practice soldering on some old boards first to get a feel for the temperature and how the tip can work to find the holes and clear them a bit without overheating the board, etc.
Thanks, I have good experience with soldering and I already removed the bypasses, but my questin was different:
some of the caps are rated 220pF on the board, but the scheme suggests switching some of them to 2200pF (2.2nF), so I was asking which of them are to be switched from 220 to 2200pF...
This is the latest board in stock version: which ones are to go from 220 to 2200pF..?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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It depend of resistors valueThis is the latest board in stock version: which ones are to go from 220 to 2200pF..?
I'm happy with this filter
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It depend of resistors value
I'm happy with this filter
Thanks, my measurements show that resistors should be the same values, so I was asking which caps were suggested to be switched to 2200pF by Dario in that post...
I am trying to follow this scheme but there is no "green ero" cap in latest version, so could someone pkease point which are the caps to be switched to 2200pF here?
None...
The green EROs (2,7nF) were on positions marked with 222 (2200pF or 2.2nF), in your board they're blue caps.
Ah, you means these 2...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Yes
Inviato dal mio Nexus 5 utilizzando Tapatalk
Ah, you means these 2...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Do anyone else have 2 Red Wima 1000/100v on line with the OpAmps.
Look like it's the same on this picture...
I think they are 1000pF / 1 nf.. Mine was with 100nF here so it's very
different DAC9 I have..
I have very little output gain in mine.
/Thanks Michael
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Do anyone else have 2 Red Wima 1000/100v on line with the OpAmps.
Look like it's the same on this picture...
I think they are 1000pF / 1 nf.. Mine was with 100nF here so it's very
different DAC9 I have..
I have very little output gain in mine.
/Thanks Michael
I have 1000pF Wimas, there.
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