hi
I would like to try and build a small sub to replace the one i got with this kit http://www.denon.co.uk/site/frames_...ppe_C=4&action=detail&Pid=258&main=prod&sub=1 but dont really have a clue where to start. I was wonder if you guys could point me in the right direction where to buy the parts and whether to build a sealed or ported box i have a budget of about £150 for the amp and driver.
Any help would be great guys
cheers
I would like to try and build a small sub to replace the one i got with this kit http://www.denon.co.uk/site/frames_...ppe_C=4&action=detail&Pid=258&main=prod&sub=1 but dont really have a clue where to start. I was wonder if you guys could point me in the right direction where to buy the parts and whether to build a sealed or ported box i have a budget of about £150 for the amp and driver.
Any help would be great guys
cheers
On such a small budget you will need to get the most bang for your pound. That will dictate a vented box. You will be looking at 10 inch or 8 inch drivers, depending on how big a box you can tolerate. Car subwoofer drivers would be a good place to start looking.
I'd look to power the unit with a plate amp. www.cpc.co.uk do some as do www.bkelec.com
I'd look to power the unit with a plate amp. www.cpc.co.uk do some as do www.bkelec.com
ok cheers mate
if i bought this amp http://www.bkelec.com/Modules/bsbp100.htm and this driver http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Drive_Units/Peerless/XLS10.htm what size of ported box would u recommend (trying to keep it as small as possible).
cheers
if i bought this amp http://www.bkelec.com/Modules/bsbp100.htm and this driver http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Drive_Units/Peerless/XLS10.htm what size of ported box would u recommend (trying to keep it as small as possible).
cheers
Hi,
http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Drive_Units/Alcone/bx10.htm
+
http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Drive_Units/Alcone/bx10p.htm
+
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=LS01562&N=411
Needs around 1 cuft, 25 to 35 litres, PR tuned to 32 to 35 Hz.
The XLS10 would also need the matching PR for a small box,
gives similar response to the above in a box half the volume.
/sreten.
http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Drive_Units/Alcone/bx10.htm
+
http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Drive_Units/Alcone/bx10p.htm
+
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=LS01562&N=411
Needs around 1 cuft, 25 to 35 litres, PR tuned to 32 to 35 Hz.
The XLS10 would also need the matching PR for a small box,
gives similar response to the above in a box half the volume.
/sreten.
Some of the paramaters like xmax were not given so I guessed. It looks like it was intended for a pretty small box but you have to tune below "optimally flat" to get much low output. Given the probable room gain I like this one which is a pretty small box good for anything down to 16' pedal stops at reasonable volume levels.
mike
mike
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sorry forgot to post link http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers/XLS200.htm
The passive radiator is required to get the best out of the drive unit. However, in a sealed box and with some electronic EQ it can still perform well. This way usually results in a bit smaller box.
BK must have chosen this design to suit their target price and market. It would complement your little speakers well, I dare say even show them up for how cheap they are, and be a considerable improvement on the effort you got with the set.
BK must have chosen this design to suit their target price and market. It would complement your little speakers well, I dare say even show them up for how cheap they are, and be a considerable improvement on the effort you got with the set.
Hi,
If your going to buy the sub complete a Richersounds special
is a far more sensible option, should be miles better than the
25W (50W peak) Denon subwoofer.
http://www.homecinemachoice.com/cgi-bin/outputpdf.php?file=WHC/030/086_WHC_030.pdf
The Mission M2SAS seems well suited to job required.
/sreten.
If your going to buy the sub complete a Richersounds special
is a far more sensible option, should be miles better than the
25W (50W peak) Denon subwoofer.
http://www.homecinemachoice.com/cgi-bin/outputpdf.php?file=WHC/030/086_WHC_030.pdf
The Mission M2SAS seems well suited to job required.
/sreten.
Need more info!
I suggest WinISD pro, and that you consider all the filters you will have with your amp - rumble filter, crossover, etc, or it is not a complete design. I wrote some wiki articles on this (see below) which you might find helpful.
With compromises, such as making box bigger than you may have otherwise done, you should be able to pull off a vented XLS without a PR, or you could make it sealed. It won't be in the same league as the sub you are replacing, it will be infinitely better. This driver is used in some very high end systems.
I suggest WinISD pro, and that you consider all the filters you will have with your amp - rumble filter, crossover, etc, or it is not a complete design. I wrote some wiki articles on this (see below) which you might find helpful.
With compromises, such as making box bigger than you may have otherwise done, you should be able to pull off a vented XLS without a PR, or you could make it sealed. It won't be in the same league as the sub you are replacing, it will be infinitely better. This driver is used in some very high end systems.
If you want to design the box it is not very difficult, even for a newbie. I have written a few wiki articles to help with this (follow links in my signature).
What you have shown so far isn't what I would call a design that is ready to build.
This is what I call a decent subwoofer design.
1. box volume, port length and diameter
2. amp and driver chosen
3. specs of all the filters available - eg. variable 2nd order lowpass, 3rd order highpass (rumble filter) @ 20 Hz, boost if present and any other eq that you might have
4. filters included in the charts you use to assess the design (use WinISD pro)
5. response meets target F3
6. response integrates correctly with main speakers
7. power to reach xmax considered and power available from amp, and thermal limits of driver considered
8. group delay is not too high (not so easy to determine)
9. vent velocity is not too high - should be considered along with aerodynamics of port
This isn't exhaustive, but I'd say at least address those issues before you build. It's not that hard, and help is available on each point. The trick is making good choices and balance compromises.
What you have shown so far isn't what I would call a design that is ready to build.
This is what I call a decent subwoofer design.
1. box volume, port length and diameter
2. amp and driver chosen
3. specs of all the filters available - eg. variable 2nd order lowpass, 3rd order highpass (rumble filter) @ 20 Hz, boost if present and any other eq that you might have
4. filters included in the charts you use to assess the design (use WinISD pro)
5. response meets target F3
6. response integrates correctly with main speakers
7. power to reach xmax considered and power available from amp, and thermal limits of driver considered
8. group delay is not too high (not so easy to determine)
9. vent velocity is not too high - should be considered along with aerodynamics of port
This isn't exhaustive, but I'd say at least address those issues before you build. It's not that hard, and help is available on each point. The trick is making good choices and balance compromises.
ok i have took your advise the best i could and came up with this ported box
1. 27.5l
port length 315mm
diameter 63.35mm
2. Amp http://www.bkelec.com/Modules/bsbp100.htm
Driver http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Drive_Units/Peerless/XLS10.htm
3. rumble filter @20hz
4. no filters used
5. 48.26 hz
6. not sure how to check that i would like the crossover to be about 150hz
7. check graph
8. check graph
9. check graph
thanks for all the help could you comment on the results please
1. 27.5l
port length 315mm
diameter 63.35mm
2. Amp http://www.bkelec.com/Modules/bsbp100.htm
Driver http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Drive_Units/Peerless/XLS10.htm
3. rumble filter @20hz
4. no filters used
5. 48.26 hz
6. not sure how to check that i would like the crossover to be about 150hz
7. check graph
8. check graph
9. check graph
thanks for all the help could you comment on the results please
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