Stef,
Can't you use a dual layer PCB? www.eurocircuits.com are not soo costly, also not for DIY
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Can't you use a dual layer PCB? www.eurocircuits.com are not soo costly, also not for DIY
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Jan-Peter said:Stef,
Can't you use a dual layer PCB? www.eurocircuits.com are not soo costly, also not for DIY
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Thanks, for this reference. I was not aware of this web site. The price seems too expensive for me.
Jan-Peter said:Steff,
Two PCB will cost you EUR 49.15 inc. shipping
Jan-Peter
I should check my current cost. But, it should be around 20€ for 2 pcb.
The basic problem to add the standby circuit is the size of the pcb. If I stay with the pcb on the left of the cabinet (just close to the UcD180), I only have 185x38mm usable.
If I switch the pcb on the right side, I can use a 210 pcb long. The problem after is the wiring. No nice, I should cross the cables. Cables will be longer too.
Attachments
stef,
you might also consider the lc audio slow start modules (ready built) or if you think that's too expensive elektor has a slow start pcb too. Very easy to build.
Search the elektor site www.elektor-electronics.co.uk or www.thepcbshop.com for project nr 974078.
In holland they're EUR 11 a piece.
you might also consider the lc audio slow start modules (ready built) or if you think that's too expensive elektor has a slow start pcb too. Very easy to build.
Search the elektor site www.elektor-electronics.co.uk or www.thepcbshop.com for project nr 974078.
In holland they're EUR 11 a piece.
Hi all!
Jan-Peter, could you tell us what are UCD180 and UCD400 connectors ref.?
BTW, i'm in progress to build PSU for UCD180 and UCD400, here is an artwork for UCD180 PSU.
UCD180 PSU
Jan-Peter, could you tell us what are UCD180 and UCD400 connectors ref.?
BTW, i'm in progress to build PSU for UCD180 and UCD400, here is an artwork for UCD180 PSU.
UCD180 PSU
Fram,
Please check this two links;
http://www.hypex.nl/classd/UcD180.pdf
http://www.hypex.nl/classd/UcD400.pdf
Nice setup of your powersupply!
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Please check this two links;
http://www.hypex.nl/classd/UcD180.pdf
http://www.hypex.nl/classd/UcD400.pdf
Nice setup of your powersupply!
Regards,
Jan-Peter
I haven't the time or energy to read through all 92 pages of this thread again, but I believe there may be somebody in this thread that has a nice case made in the UK. If somebody has a better memory than me and knows what I'm on about Id be eternally grateful if they could point me in the direction of the post or the company.
Many thanks
Many thanks
T party
As i have got 2 ucd180, and monting in a lov profile box:
As the T-bar on the modules is delivered with treaded holes.... They wil not fit the easy way so i have to make a exstra bar inbetween the sidebar and the module. Will it or is it possible that in the future the option wider T-bar reaching outside ( it sems that desoder and solder onboard caps is fairly common) the caps as a option or standard?
wider T-bar with holes untreaded will make mounting simpler/easyer as the M3 nuts just slide into the side panels. And final fastening is done from oposit side, as well as unmounting of decopling caps is not necessesarly. Mount with ease and bee happy ??
As i have got 2 ucd180, and monting in a lov profile box:
As the T-bar on the modules is delivered with treaded holes.... They wil not fit the easy way so i have to make a exstra bar inbetween the sidebar and the module. Will it or is it possible that in the future the option wider T-bar reaching outside ( it sems that desoder and solder onboard caps is fairly common) the caps as a option or standard?
wider T-bar with holes untreaded will make mounting simpler/easyer as the M3 nuts just slide into the side panels. And final fastening is done from oposit side, as well as unmounting of decopling caps is not necessesarly. Mount with ease and bee happy ??
Hi Konrad.
I had exactly the same problem as you. In the end I decided just to epoxy them with a heatsink epoxy onto the internal alu sides.
Removal in case of a refit is slightly harder, basically to remove epoxy you put the whole thing in the freezer so that it goes brittle and then carefully prise the heatsink away from whatever you glued it to. Remember that everything else will have gone brittle as well so be gentle.
I have never tried this with these modules (only other electronic components), so perhaps someone at Hypex can comment on whether this removal technique is actually feasible for the modules...?
However, agreed that if the modules just had a large T, then the wretched things could me mounted from the module side and not the opposite side.
That said, I am listening to my UCD400 stereo amp right now and it sounds extremely nice. Lots of low level detail and a nice twang on things like guitar strings. It's extremely cool (temperature) compared with the Zappulse amps as well.
Good luck
Ed W
I had exactly the same problem as you. In the end I decided just to epoxy them with a heatsink epoxy onto the internal alu sides.
Removal in case of a refit is slightly harder, basically to remove epoxy you put the whole thing in the freezer so that it goes brittle and then carefully prise the heatsink away from whatever you glued it to. Remember that everything else will have gone brittle as well so be gentle.
I have never tried this with these modules (only other electronic components), so perhaps someone at Hypex can comment on whether this removal technique is actually feasible for the modules...?
However, agreed that if the modules just had a large T, then the wretched things could me mounted from the module side and not the opposite side.
That said, I am listening to my UCD400 stereo amp right now and it sounds extremely nice. Lots of low level detail and a nice twang on things like guitar strings. It's extremely cool (temperature) compared with the Zappulse amps as well.
Good luck
Ed W
Konrad,
I agree with you that in certain construction it is not very easy to mount the UcD180. On the other hand if you use nice black screws and you drill an hole from the outside of your cabinet you can easy fit the module by screwing the from the outside.
Ewildgoose,
I don't completly understand you, can you perhaps send a picture?
I am very glad you like the sound of the UcD400
Regards,
Jan-Peter
I agree with you that in certain construction it is not very easy to mount the UcD180. On the other hand if you use nice black screws and you drill an hole from the outside of your cabinet you can easy fit the module by screwing the from the outside.
Ewildgoose,
I don't completly understand you, can you perhaps send a picture?
I am very glad you like the sound of the UcD400
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Jan-Peter said:
See my pictures in the UCD400 thread
http://www.wildgooses.com/downloads/amp8.jpg
http://www.wildgooses.com/downloads/amp9.jpg
That silver gunk around the sides of the heatsink is my poor skill where the epoxy has oozed out because I applied too much. The T is literally epoxied to the side of the amp casing.
As I said, it *should* be easy to remove them again if the module and the side of the case (which unscrews) is placed in the freezer. However, I would caution anyone else trying this to be very careful with the frozen board so that nothing is damage which it is so cold. Perhaps even the T-bar can be unscrewed and removed..?
In the UK, a simple thing like an M3 is hard enough to get, let alone a black countersunk one... My typical choice from a hardware store would be a large 2" long steel M3 with some kind of random head on it...
Now, if you loose the free nut that came with the M3 you bought, then completely forget about buying just some loose M3 nuts...
I do know some specialist shops I can try for these, but does anyone have any high street names to try in the UK?
Thanks
Now, if you loose the free nut that came with the M3 you bought, then completely forget about buying just some loose M3 nuts...
I do know some specialist shops I can try for these, but does anyone have any high street names to try in the UK?
Thanks