Try this:
Recession Buster
$235 may be out of your budget, but considering that price includes everything (completed crossovers as well) but the wood, you get a lot for the money.
The other advantage here is the design, driver matching, and crossovers are already worked out for you sop you have a guaranteed success margin.
I wonder why??
Fs is low enough to cross at 2500 surely, and looking at the published specs I see no resonances that need dealing with.
D27-45-06 is good to cross that low, I have a friend who even uses 1st order that low with that tweeter.
He plays soft and sweet music however that may not place great stress on the tweeter, I have the data sheet hidden somewhere in my files, let me try and find it and Vifas recommended XO
That is for P17 / D26 combo, same size faceplate but apparently not functional equivalents, very similar Fs & power handling,etc; rising top end from memory.
Damn computer crash, Rabbitz sent me a whole PDF on the D27-45-06 and I've lost it, that information no longer shows on the Vifa website.
Anyway I think the P17 is good to cross anywhere between 2500 and 4k depending on tweeter and off axis performance isn't going to be much of a big deal if you are using them near-field is it??
From memory Vifa power specs were taken with the D27 crossed fairly high using B'wth 2nd at 4k, whereas I would be crossing lower, half an octave lower at 2700/3k I think.
Damn computer crash, Rabbitz sent me a whole PDF on the D27-45-06 and I've lost it, that information no longer shows on the Vifa website.
Anyway I think the P17 is good to cross anywhere between 2500 and 4k depending on tweeter and off axis performance isn't going to be much of a big deal if you are using them near-field is it??
From memory Vifa power specs were taken with the D27 crossed fairly high using B'wth 2nd at 4k, whereas I would be crossing lower, half an octave lower at 2700/3k I think.
I presume... I place the mid/woofer and tweeter in the optimal areas... around 1cm average between the two, then I can just measure the tweeter crossover for that distance, and set it using a 1st order, and add the zobel... then put a 1st order on the mid/woofer to suit, and adjust up and down until correct... if I can't get it sounding nice on 1st order... switch tweeter to a second order, ... etc.
When I build the cabinet... I was going to build just a standard wooden 16mm MDF rectangular box, screwed together with glue, simple and unattractive, and drilled for the internal dimensions of the speaker, without taking into account the faceplate. Then surround the entire cabinet with more carefully integrated 6mm MDF with 6mm curved cornace peices, cutting the faceplate diametre into this other 6mm front face...
But... the faceplate on each are 4.7mm and 5mm ... 1.3mm and 1mm less than the additional 6mm. Will this affect the sound, having a 1mm edge right beside the speaker, should I sand the 1.3/1mm off in a kind of waveguide manner?
But... the faceplate on each are 4.7mm and 5mm ... 1.3mm and 1mm less than the additional 6mm. Will this affect the sound, having a 1mm edge right beside the speaker, should I sand the 1.3/1mm off in a kind of waveguide manner?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I think i'll go with a Qtc of 5.0 for transient perfect... that will give the most accurate won't it? Might not be much bass response,... but will be more accurate for recording. Then I can create my sub with the same Qtc of 5.0 and cut it off at the main speakers lowest frequency. ... I'm excited. My plan is coming together ... *Evil Laugh*
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