The R-Core is a speciality transformer. If they don't know how to make it its going to be problematic even if having the best intentions. I would ask for a refund in your shoes. I remember back when we were banging our heads here why your reg could not work when all others were working, it certainly gave you hassle. Buy such stuff only from trafo sources that a prototype had successfully worked with it first. Also pay attention to the wiring when there are multiple secondary taps.
The R-Core is a speciality transformer. If they don't know how to make it its going to be problematic even if having the best intentions. I would ask for a refund in your shoes. I remember back when we were banging our heads here why your reg could not work when all others were working, it certainly gave you hassle. Buy such stuff only from trafo sources that a prototype had successfully worked with it first. Also pay attention to the wiring when there are multiple secondary taps.
What a bullsh.. X2 about the refund!
Salas, please do me a big favor and cancel my post #46. I don´t want that another member get´s this problems!
What a bullsh.. X2 about the refund!
Salas, please do me a big favor and cancel my post #46. I don´t want that another member get´s this problems!
Removed.
The new Tube-I-zator V2.0
After two months of designing, sample production and testing,
may i introduce:
The new Tube-I-zator V2.0
The evolution brings the following changes:
- Heater Switch without any relays
- Low ESR Heater PSU (e.g. Panasonic FM)
- Star Grounding
- Mounting holes for the HV-Salas Shunt Module
- Compacter design
The PCB has the following data:
Material: FR4 - 2mm
Layers: 2
Board size: 193x157 mm
Surface finish: Immersion Gold
Copper weight: 70µm
Soldermask: Both sides - green
Silkscreen: Legend on top
Tube-I-zator V2.0 BOM
The price will be as followed:
Professional 2-Layer PCB: $30
Worldwide shipping: $ 9
Europe shipping: $ 5
paypal fee: 3,9%
A donation of $3 USD to diyAudio will be done for every pcb sold.
Best regards to the community,
Oliver
may i introduce:
The new Tube-I-zator V2.0
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The evolution brings the following changes:
- Heater Switch without any relays
- Low ESR Heater PSU (e.g. Panasonic FM)
- Star Grounding
- Mounting holes for the HV-Salas Shunt Module
- Compacter design
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The PCB has the following data:
Material: FR4 - 2mm
Layers: 2
Board size: 193x157 mm
Surface finish: Immersion Gold
Copper weight: 70µm
Soldermask: Both sides - green
Silkscreen: Legend on top
Tube-I-zator V2.0 BOM
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The price will be as followed:
Professional 2-Layer PCB: $30
Worldwide shipping: $ 9
Europe shipping: $ 5
paypal fee: 3,9%
A donation of $3 USD to diyAudio will be done for every pcb sold.
Best regards to the community,
Oliver
Attachments
Here a few photos of the ready build V2.0
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I could use some help in laying out the components for my DAC. I have come up with some component layouts, but if you can think of some that I have not please list them here. I hope this is OK for me to do Oliver. I could use everyones' help. Sorry for the horrible photo, it's from my iphone. Thank you very much.
Greg
P.S. The tubizator V.2 looks fantastic Oliver! Wish I had them.
Greg
P.S. The tubizator V.2 looks fantastic Oliver! Wish I had them.
Attachments
I could use some help in laying out the components for my DAC. I have come up with some component layouts, but if you can think of some that I have not please list them here. I hope this is OK for me to do Oliver. I could use everyones' help. Sorry for the horrible photo, it's from my iphone. Thank you very much.
Greg
P.S. The tubizator V.2 looks fantastic Oliver! Wish I had them.
Hi Greg,
looks pretty good!
Please try to keep the HV-Shunt wires as short as possible.
Therefore the HV-Shunt for the Tube-I-zator #1 must go to the upper side.
BTW, is see that you had both 2nd caps in the HV-PSU installed. You need only one
complete C-R-C strack to the HV-Shunt module!
Last edited:
Hi Greg,
looks pretty good!
Please try to keep the HV-Shunt wires as short as possible.
Therefore the HV-Shunt for the Tube-I-zator #1 must go to the upper side.
BTW, is see that you had both 2nd caps in the HV-PSU installed. You need only one
complete C-R-C strack to the HV-Shunt module!
Thanks Oliver! That was one of the layouts I had as you suggested. I would move the Tubeizator #1 towards the front enough to put the HV Shunt board right behind it rather than in the front as pictured.
As far as both caps in the HV-PSU, I know both were not required, but I had both well before I had the boards, so I installed them both just in case I needed to use the HV-PSU on the tubeizator itself (for whatever reason) in the future. It won't adversly affect the performance of the HV-Shunt or the HV-PSU on the Tubeizator will it?
Greg
Last edited:
Leave them unconnected as you stated
If I don't have the 1K resistor installed for the these caps, would it matter if the caps are installed? Or is it still better to remove them?
Greg
The R-Core transformers?
How about these R-Core transformers I got? The ones from DIY-GOODS on ebay (that Tfan69 had a problem with). Should I try these out and hope they work OK? Or should I get different ones? Anyone else use these transformers and have them work OK? Thanks again.
Greg
How about these R-Core transformers I got? The ones from DIY-GOODS on ebay (that Tfan69 had a problem with). Should I try these out and hope they work OK? Or should I get different ones? Anyone else use these transformers and have them work OK? Thanks again.
Greg
Last edited:
How about these R-Core transformers I got? The ones from DIY-GOODS on ebay (that Tfan69 had a problem with). Should I try these out and hope they work OK? Or should I get different ones? Anyone else use these transformers and have them work OK? Thanks again.
Greg
Greg,
i think you should try the transformers, but look first to the output voltages.
If they are in the recommended range, connect the lines to the modules.
The voltage of the 9V should be fine for the tube heaters, but I think it'll be high for the anode power input. The transformer says it's rated at (165V, .1A). I plan on putting a higher resistor in place of the 1K though to reduce the voltage going through to the rectifiers. I first need to measure the actual voltage being output to determine what resistor value I need.Greg,
i think you should try the transformers, but look first to the output voltages.
If they are in the recommended range, connect the lines to the modules.
try 'em and check if current is enough to run everything or not
That's one question I had, is the heater input on the Tubeizator terminal (9-12V, 2A) is the 2A input a required 2A? Or is that the maximum current allowed? The R-core outputs 1A is the reason I ask. The voltage should be fine though.
Greg
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
- Home
- Group Buys
- Tube-I-zator Professional PCB