I don't think i get the question.
The thing is I believe many want a cheap solution, and many times they can get a computer power supply that can deliver 70-80% total power with 1/3-1/4 the cost of a power supply delivering 100% full power.
Those people also just want a bedroom sound experience, not a large room cinematic sound experience.
I do believe these people can get way with a simple (read, cheap) laptop power supply.
If money is not a problem and your speakers do deserve a good, controlled amplifier and you want to use high volume, got get the best power supply you can.
In my PC, I had a 2.1 (2x50W+100W) board working with a 12v 2A HDD power supply... it served me well.
Recently, I exchanged it with a 12v 5A chinese power supply and a supercheap 3A step-up switching module to 19v (I needed more current to use the same power supply to feed a LED strip that lights my room at night in a photo/video editing environment).
I detected no difference in sound quality. My power levels needs are modest (I guess that's the main reason) but my speakers are very open and with have great detail.
ps - just as a note/curiosity: the 12V 5A power supply generated a perceptible ground noise while only supplying my amp (low load). At night, with LED strip load, this noise was absent. The step-up module cured that.
Considering this, how you feel about the "80V" marking on the "Lelon" RXJ series electrolytic ? Or do production boards have "50V" ?
http://www.lelon.com/upload/prod/144662715898.pdf
I have no problem with fakes if the amp sounds good and my Volt+ is exceptional.
Currently powering it with a 12v Astron linear regulated which I prefer to the 19v Allo.com recommends.
I don't thing Poultrygeist meant that.
I could say the same meaning "I don't care if they are not as good as they should/could be, as long as the sound is right."
Counterfeited products are a result of consumers thinking brand items, normally better than others, are essential... they are not. They are better (if one can feel/see the difference...) but not essential.
Counterfeited products are bad to everyone (consumers are the most affected) but to the ones who make them.
Hello,
I was planning on building a Bluetooth Boombox and saw these two TPA3116 based boards with APT-X support. (Honestly, i'm not even sure if APT-X brings any quality improvement on this small boards... but hey, rahter have and don't use than need and don't have.)
Sure JAB2-50
Sure Electronics' webstore 2 x 50 Watt 4 Ohm Class D Audio Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.0 APT-X - JAB2-50
TPA3116 CSR64215 Bluetooth V4.2 Digital Amplifier Board 2.0 2*50W APT-X AUX
New TPA3116 CSR64215 Bluetooth V4.2 Digital Amplifier Board 2.0 2*50W APT-X AUX | eBay
I was looking at Visaton FRS 8 - 4 Ohm speakers.
Using a 4Cell 14.8V or 3Cell 11.1V Battery.
Does this Datasheet mean Output for ONE line or Stereo Output power?
If it's for Both Then there is definitly need for a StepUp Booster to get those 14.8V to 24V.
Also i could get the Visaton FR 10 F - 4 Ohm Speakers, which are only half the price.
While we're at the topic of Output Power....
Recently i got this 3W+3W 5V Bluetooth AMP board from Ebay. And use it with my old PC Speakers Stereo 3W 4Ohm. (You can hear them in Action here). I do think they're quite OK in loudness, but on thing that bugs the hell outa me....
I used a USB PowerMonitor to see how much Energy they drain from the Powerbank/Wallcharger. At 5.1Volt the maximum usage is 0.072Ampere.
This would equal a 0.37Watt Which is like... WAY OFF from my expected 6Watt.
I mean, i know that these Amplifiers mostly aren't that efficient and only provide what named under best cirumstances, but off by a factor 20? And while i do not really have the experience or expertise on this topic, they do sound quite louder than 0.36W So am i making a basic math mistake here?
I was planning on building a Bluetooth Boombox and saw these two TPA3116 based boards with APT-X support. (Honestly, i'm not even sure if APT-X brings any quality improvement on this small boards... but hey, rahter have and don't use than need and don't have.)
Sure JAB2-50
Sure Electronics' webstore 2 x 50 Watt 4 Ohm Class D Audio Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.0 APT-X - JAB2-50
TPA3116 CSR64215 Bluetooth V4.2 Digital Amplifier Board 2.0 2*50W APT-X AUX
New TPA3116 CSR64215 Bluetooth V4.2 Digital Amplifier Board 2.0 2*50W APT-X AUX | eBay
According to this Datasheet with 4Ohm speakers, my first plan of going with 2 50W speakers seems way overboard.
I was looking at Visaton FRS 8 - 4 Ohm speakers.
Using a 4Cell 14.8V or 3Cell 11.1V Battery.
Does this Datasheet mean Output for ONE line or Stereo Output power?
If it's for Both Then there is definitly need for a StepUp Booster to get those 14.8V to 24V.
Also i could get the Visaton FR 10 F - 4 Ohm Speakers, which are only half the price.
While we're at the topic of Output Power....
Recently i got this 3W+3W 5V Bluetooth AMP board from Ebay. And use it with my old PC Speakers Stereo 3W 4Ohm. (You can hear them in Action here). I do think they're quite OK in loudness, but on thing that bugs the hell outa me....
I used a USB PowerMonitor to see how much Energy they drain from the Powerbank/Wallcharger. At 5.1Volt the maximum usage is 0.072Ampere.
This would equal a 0.37Watt Which is like... WAY OFF from my expected 6Watt.
I mean, i know that these Amplifiers mostly aren't that efficient and only provide what named under best cirumstances, but off by a factor 20? And while i do not really have the experience or expertise on this topic, they do sound quite louder than 0.36W So am i making a basic math mistake here?
irribeo,
I think you stepped over the line accusing another member is a criminal. Poultrygeist has never said that he knowing purchased something that consists of counterfeit parts. For all we know, he is probably a victim. He merely commented that the amp sounded good to him even though there may be fake parts in it. The idea that someone would knowingly buying something that is made up of fake parts is absurd. You may be an expert in spotting fake parts but you cannot assume that everyone can do that.
This forum is about electronic DIY, please refrain from insulting people.
Visaton FRS 8 is a good speaker.
I would prefer those over the other alternative you mentioned.
Another option would be the Vifa TC9FD, which is sometime sold as Peerless FR35/8.
Don't bother with voltage boosts from 14V to 24V.
You won't recognize any difference.
The sanwu amp you linked looks interesting.
But you can have it much cheaper with a mono system and a single sanwu TPA3118 pbtl board.
Imo there is no need for stereo with a small boombox.
Buying isn't selling. Poultrygeist hasn't bought, that we all know by reading already. So victimising him is a friendly gesture but a little inaccurate.
Can anyone post any experience/ knowledge of this board in the ebay advert?
TPA3116 NE5532 2.0 50w+50w stereo HIFI power digital amplifier board Tone 12v 24 | eBay
I was wondering if it is one of the common boards (does not seem to be) in this thread?
TPA3116 NE5532 2.0 50w+50w stereo HIFI power digital amplifier board Tone 12v 24 | eBay
I was wondering if it is one of the common boards (does not seem to be) in this thread?
I was looking at 4 Ohm Speakers because i tought they would be louder. Do you recommend 8 Ohm or are the Vifa TC9FD 4Ohm version also OK?
Good to know that the StepUp module will not provide much benefits. Then I'll connect the battery directly.
I've actually had the Idea about an Unmountable left Speaker on a 1-2m Cable for the BoomBox. Because stereo within a 20cm distance between the speakers sounded like a silly idea ^^
I've never really thought about using it Mono.
If your looking for volume outside, I beg to differ ...
Into 8 ohm speakers, 14v will yield a nominal 12w rms; 24v will yield 36w rms. Double those power figures for 4 ohm speakers. Speaker efficiency is also important for higher volumes.
Here's my implementation using a TPA3116 2.1 amp (2x50w + 100w). The 8", 4 ohm woofer's sensitivity is 91dB at 1w/m (94dB at 2.83v/m). I'm running at 24v so I'm getting 108dB spl. I modified the amp's on-board LP filter by replacing two poly caps to include baffle step compensation. The mid-ranges only go up to 10K hz as I can't hear that high up (and your not going to get stereo imaging in a single unit).
Yes, speaker sensitivity is what you need for a loud system.
PA-midbass + tweeterhorn is the way to go for a medium sized system.
2.1 systems with two mid speakers and one bass-woofer do not make too much sense to me.
better do it the other way around like two woofers and one tweeterhorn.
But when someone asks for small fr-speakers like the Visaton FRS8, i would keep it small and simple with no energy losses in a voltage converter.
That boombox will sound good, will be made in a simple way, will be very cost effective and small sized, but will not be the very loud.
A voltage converter will change nothing about that.
PA-midbass + tweeterhorn is the way to go for a medium sized system.
2.1 systems with two mid speakers and one bass-woofer do not make too much sense to me.
better do it the other way around like two woofers and one tweeterhorn.
But when someone asks for small fr-speakers like the Visaton FRS8, i would keep it small and simple with no energy losses in a voltage converter.
That boombox will sound good, will be made in a simple way, will be very cost effective and small sized, but will not be the very loud.
A voltage converter will change nothing about that.
I am glad to hear that..
Hope it's not criminal to post a picture of my completed Volt+
Love this amp with the Astron power supply.
I think that for stereo sound in a compact factor, it could help at certain degree placing the loud speakers almost in diagonal angle, as the showed picture below I am showing. I made that design some time ago, although never build it, I was looking for an enclosure that is 2.1 and I gave it a vertical shape, looking for space saving. I think that each loud speaker should have its own isolated chamber, so the internal sounds don't mix together, ruining the intention of having some stereo sound. A horizontal shape should be even better, since the loudspeakers can be more separated each other (see second picture), of course all this is only possible doing some woodworking and throw away the intention of using any already made rectangular enclosure, although you can make some adapters to the loud speakers in order to give them some angle and increase the stereo effect.
Attachments
Each driver needs to be in an isolated chamber by itself.
In a 3-way speaker the woofer's sound pressure will be imparted on the midrange's cone distorting its sound. So the mid-range needs its own space. Most tweeters are self contained so they are not an issue.
Two woofers sharing the same space come into issues with the differences between the L-R channel program. Say a bass guitar is mostly recorded on the R channel while a piano is mostly recorded on the L channel. The difference between these signals will cause each woofer to impart its sound pressure on the other.
I don't think you want to angle the speakers out. I don't know of any speaker modeling s/w that supports that alignment. And, if there was a benefit, many commercial offerings would likely have done it.
Agreed on the small fr-speakers. On the 2.1 systems, look up Hoffman's iron law (H as in KLH) . Speaker design is all about compromises and the ".1" woofer arrangement supports certain benefits (albeit at the expense of others).