TPA3116D2 Amp

sorry guys just a fast question..
is this a good TPA3116 implementation or not?
This thread is so long I cant find the best one..

That board is known as the "YJ Blue" and has many issues. There's a wiki pretty much dedicated to improving it but time/effort = very not worth it.

There are many other better boards out there. SANWU have a decent reputation. The "Sanwu blue 3118 mono" boards are good and around £3-£4 each on UK eBay. Anything much cheaper is a rip off of it and doesn't have the "SANWU" print on the bottom of the circuit board.

Ask yourself what features you need on the board. Volume control, on/off switch, terminal connectors, RCA inputs, speaker terminals? Is the a turn on/off pop/thump suppression circuit?

I have the 4xSANWU blue 3118s, a WLX or BREEZE TPA3116 board and a DUAL CHIP TPA3116 board.

J.
 
Mono TPA3116 boards.
There seem to be a few around. Though not a lot of discussion about them..... That I can find by search on the forums anyway. :)
There are also Breeze and Sure, YJ(?) boards out there.

XH-M544
92x58x16mm

HCH-1618BTL
50x38mm!

XH-M542

79x54x16mm.

One I have seen on here but no board ID
75x50mm

DPA501-24

52x48x18

If there's been any in-depth discussion of these, I'd be interested in knowing.

Another board claims to be mono or more like mono capable. Board piccie shows Sanwu brand.
DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Mono 100W Digital Audio Power Amplifier Board BTL Out Amp | eBay
75mmx50mm
 
Why are those TPA3118 popular pbtl boards labeled as 60W? If i am correct, TPA3118 has the same capabilities than TPA3116, which can outputs peaks of 160W on pbtl with 2ohm driver. Is it just because they have small capacitors and no heatsink? so one should balance the output around 60W? (varying voltage input)
 
At the moment the version pictured by Sanwu themselves is below. But if you order one with blueline/tdk inductors pictured you will probably also get a board like below:)
 

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my guess is that dual chip board and tube preamp are not the best choice anyways.
red dual chip has long traces where it shouldn't have, long distance between decuopling and chip input...bad overall design.
tube preamp can add nothing but distortion, which might sound preferable in some cases, but cannot be good in general.
i'd give another board try before investing in expensive parts for modding the dual chip board.
if you like 'warm' sound maybe TPA311X is not right chip for you.
You are right, I simply replaced the parts with decent industry standard components, like Panasonic. If I'm building another 311x it'll be dual mono from Sanwu.

Reducing the impedance of the amp's volume pot will make the situation worse. See my other post, above.

Wire them all in parallel, all the +leads tied together and all the - leads tied together. They don't have to all be physically arranged in single line as in the pic., just electrically. The 35V - 50V order really doesn't matter.

View attachment 574814
Thanks Mike. Very kind of you. What I did over the weekend, is making a trial run with 8x 1000uF stock caps from the dual chip board. When I hooked it up, I could be wrong, but the sound became worse! It sounded lazy, sluggish, and muddy. I took it off immediately and now listening to it supplied directly from the PSU.

My question: Is it simply because of bad caps used? Will all class D amp, or any amp for that matter, benefit from a properly designed cap bank?

You're right, sorry; it is because I'm testing more TPA boards at the same time.
Please share if you find a decent board, best wishes for your tests. :D
 
HTH
Lots of pictures on the web

eBay advert

Board should be labelled SANWU. Despite the low price, there are clones undercutting them.

recommend the small board before this one, The small board no heatsink

with a naked eye It looks better these

DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Mono 100W Digital Audio Power Amplifier Board BTL Out Amp | eBay



Sure I'm wrong, sorry guys I'm very noob at thi, It is my first board :RE and my first project

i need one mono board for one speaker of 40 watts RMS and 8 ohms with a power supply of 19v 3.42A

the next link put for indicating which buy, i buy that, I don't think more


thankss
 
Reposting from earlier in the thread, but I found this board from Amazon to be of decent quality. First one came with a cap that was loose - I sent it back instead of fixing, just in case anything else was wrong with the board.

Second one works perfectly. Good sized heatsink, no pop when powered on, no loud hiss, and reasonable gain. The board is marked SANWU on the bottom:

Amazon link
 
Reposting from earlier in the thread, but I found this board from Amazon to be of decent quality. First one came with a cap that was loose - I sent it back instead of fixing, just in case anything else was wrong with the board.

Second one works perfectly. Good sized heatsink, no pop when powered on, no loud hiss, and reasonable gain. The board is marked SANWU on the bottom:

Amazon link

I’m just testing this single chip board, bought on AliExpress for 7.60 €.

The only mod I’ve done is to add the R-C snubbers; this mod is quite simple, using the pads of the PCB originally intended to transform the board from dual channel BTL to single channel PBTL.

Anyway, the board seems to work fine, and, in my opinion, does not need any other mod.
The gain is 32 dB (40x), but, driving the input directly with a low impedance source, no noise is audible; modification of the gain is not easy, because to do this you have to remove the heatsink, that is glued over the SMD components (not fixed with screws as in the seller pictures).

With a power supply of 19.5V, the board outputs about 20W/8 ohm or 32W/4 ohm (probably because of power supply current limit) before clipping.

Heatsink and inductors get warm (I should say no more than 50°C), with both channels operating at 10 W continuous power.

Distortion is good, no more than 0.2% at 18W/8 ohm, 6.3 KHz and still better at lower frequencies.

The board is provided with an anti-bump circuit (you can see it in a picture of the board with the heatsink removed, in another post of this thread); a mute input is also provided.

Concerning the supply capacitor (4 x 470uF), in my board they are not Sanyo (as in the seller picture), but they are marked JWCO – LOW ESR; assuming they are not fake, according with JWCO datasheet, they should have an ESR of 65 mohm and a ripple current of 1200 mA, each one: not so bad!