TPA3116D2 Amp

Sorry, did not see the little 1 and 2 from my phone's screen. As they go to the power rail and ground, they are clamp diodes just like Dug suggested. But why is this needed or helpful? Seems like it may add some sort of diode switching noise to the system at the crossing level of 0.6VDC?

No worries! I think you and Dug are right. Not sure what all the extended B.O.M. is doing but if it's hurting the sound, it's not too obvious. It's clearly the best (nearly stock) board I've heard to date and aside from the caps that I swapped, I'm not really chomping at the bit to change much. I'm ordering another one to see if it's a fluke.
 

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Does it limit output voltage swing to PVCC voltage then maybe? Positive output voltage already is limited to PVCC voltage, so then it is kind of BTL that has as maximum the SE output swing if that is close to rail ??? It adds a little leakage noise to output on low voltage output and adds noise to powersupply on high voltage output, if swing isn't above -13.5+13.5, 27V (-10%) it won't shutdown tpachip ??? Like that? I don't understand it
 
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A good bootstrap cap and connection to the amp is perhaps one of the most critical parts for operation in that the amp will not work without it. Put the original cap back in and double check your solder joint to make sure it is not a cold solder joint. Check connection at pin pad to chip. This is classic symptom of bad bootstrap cap. A fried or shorted input cap will cause a similar symptom too.

Make sure your bootstrap cap is rated for at least 50 volts as the voltage swing at output pin can be 2x supply rail.

Hi again X,

The bootstrap caps I used are these (they were mentioned in an earlier post):

0.22uF 100V 220nF X7R MLC CAPACITOR

I have since soldered on 4 new bootstrap caps. I actually did the soldering from the top side of the board, as I was a bit paranoid that the solder pads on the bottom side may have become dodgy (some had only half of the solder pad remaining). Using the DMM I then traced the legs of each bootstrap cap, and was able to measure continuity between them and the pins on the actual chip. Also, I was able to measure continuity between the caps and the inductors. BTW, I replaced the stock inductors with 10uH torroids.

While I was at it, I replaced the stock input caps with some 3.3uF film caps.

After doing all this, I was hopeful that the issue would be resolved.

When I switched on the amp, exactly the same symptoms as before. Music plays out of the left speaker, and every second or so, the right speaker produces a thump, which temporarily cuts out the sound from the left speaker, and the same cycle repeats over and over.

Is it possible that the chip itself has developed a fault? Hopefully it hasn't come to this.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks!
 
I ran into some strange problem yesterday, My blue/black board is powered by a 19V 4A notebook brick and it has been working fine most of time before, then suddenly it stops playing (only produces very very low volume sound no matter how I turn the volume), the chip and inductors were not hot at all so rule out short circuit or overheating.
I changed to different bricks and still the same, no sounds! I power cycle the BBB and Pogoplug and everything else no difference and sometimes can hear a low level HF tone when no music is playing. When I pull the power plug on the Blue/black board then it start playing normal music for 3-5 seconds untill the caps got drainoff or as soon as I plug the brick back, no sound.
I then swap to a 12V3A LT1083 linear power supply and played without problem. could these be some high switching noise got thru to the TPA3116 and couse it to shutdown ? How can I find this out?

Another thing is my BBB is powered by another linear power supply and runs fine except sometime when I plug in the notebook brick (those sameone I used to power the 3116D2) will couse the BBB to either hang or goes nuts. May be a case of highly polluted SMPS ? High switching noise may be getting thru to the Eithernet switch/USB DAC/BBB from those dirty power bricks ?

Can someone help to resolve this


Thanks
 
A friend had some Neutrik transformers he sometimes uses. So I removed input ceramics on Wiener (measured 9.01uF, 8.99uF, 8.35uF and 9.42uF not in circuit, so probably they are 10uF's). Don't know if anything else is needed but soldered the little transformers on. Bass is a little tighter, less in amplitude, highs a little sharper, maybe little louder too. But there is a whistle, maybe they need cap/resistor added, no electrostatic screen pin to connect, just 2+2 wires, tiny little things. No time to really listen this week, connected hiampminis again, with 1uF Wima's they have more powerfull bass and highs a little on pleasant side maybe compared to the little audio transformers on Wiener.

Is there already a schematic for output new Sure's? Partcount is very high and all caps ceramic, a ceramic across positive and negative output could alter signal very much, replacing those with Wima MKS gave Trevor Marshall 3% less distortion with another Sure amp.
 
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So I removed input ceramics on Wiener (measured 9.01uF, 8.99uF, 8.35uF and 9.42uF not in circuit, so probably they are 10uF's).

Are you sure you are not dropping the decimal that is on the DMM that measures the caps? The input caps on the Wiener are tiny (flea-sized) things - I am pretty sure you can't squeeze 10uF into that package. Unless you have fat looking SMT caps.

Anyhow, if they are indeed 10uF, it is no wonder you have deeper bass than with the transformer. Do you have photos of the Neutrik transformers and what are their specs?
 
Hiampmini's with 1uF Wima input have more powerfull bass then Wiener with Neutrik nte1.

No problem to get 10uF 0805 ceramics, see digikey/mouser/elsewhere. No problem with decimals either:) However with 3V bias you never know how much uF remains in circuit with unknown ceramics or with known ceramics that don't have data on voltagecoefficient. All you know it will be less.
 
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Hiampmini's with 1uF Wima input have more powerfull bass then Wiener with Neutrik nte1.

No problem to get 10uF 0805 ceramics, see digikey/mouser/elsewhere. No problem with decimals either:) However with 3V bias you never know how much uF remains in circuit with unknown ceramics or with known ceramics that don't have data on voltagecoefficient. All you know it will be less.

I believe you with 0805 caps but I am pretty sure these are not 0805's - more like 0402's or 0603's at the largest. Look at photo and for size comparison,the pin spacing on the 3-pin header is typical 0.100 inch, and pin spacing on TPA3116 is 0.6mm or 0.0236 inch.

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I believe you with 0805 caps but I am pretty sure these are not 0805's - more like 0402's or 0603's at the largest. Look at photo and for size comparison,the pin spacing on the 3-pin header is typical 0.100 inch, and pin spacing on TPA3116 is 0.6mm or 0.0236 inch.

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Correct that are 0805's :D Measure them and you will see these are the 10uF's off Weiner pcb:
 

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