thanks Mann, I understand and can do different subs too? but I don't think gf will allow as I currently have two brand new 13" cubes for the DVC 8" Dayton sitting around. I agree the output may not do it with these two new builds. I guess low end extension vs spl is always the decision-sealed vs ported. I will build your suggested simple BR if nothing else comes along. THe extension you mentioned flat to 50hz is impressive. I don't know about the MA pluvial 7. Dave nows this driver I think quite well and am hoping he makes a suggestion-he has already said quite a lot, but I am confused as to which I should select. Aesthetics is a factor as well guys. I think the ufonken style is very sexy and different look to conventional BR?
If using <4" drivers: I would still say yes. Because the fs and qts values combined with mechanical limitations of such small drivers mean they run out of "oomph" before it gets interesting. You can make a 4" do 60hz, but only if you accept some roll off, 80hz flat = no problem, but by then you're missing out. 3.5" and smaller needs a lot of them to get enough surface area.
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It does not matter for me what design you choose, just understand what you're going into.
I can sim a box for those 8" for you if so desire.
Edit:
It does not matter for me what design you choose, just understand what you're going into.
I can sim a box for those 8" for you if so desire.
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I used the Zaph B3 best fr design near field when I first built them and they did great stuff but could not handle my spl needs as the bass would cause unwanted distortion pretty early. Especially with the new thumpy music my grandkids like! So u put a small ported woofer under the desk and was a world of diff. But I did not high pass the B3 so still couldn't handle my spl requirements but was louder with the woofer. When gf is not around spl that is!
I think the Pluvia 7 is a promising driver, but use the subs together with that one.
If you build my BR design, you may end up wanting a 12" in the same type of enclosure. Not making promises here, but it sounds very smooth and natural if you get everything right. Use some open cell foam on the walls internally and you're good.
If you build my BR design, you may end up wanting a 12" in the same type of enclosure. Not making promises here, but it sounds very smooth and natural if you get everything right. Use some open cell foam on the walls internally and you're good.
thanks Mann, "i Luv you Mann" couldn't help it lol. I used a design already worked up from parts express called the "Triska" 13" cube out of 3/4" mdf, one 8"dvc Dayton cheap subwoofer, plus 2 passive radiators. I have not made the cutout for the 70wat Dayton amp yet. I hooved it up with plate amp outside the box and only the supplied nut and 1 washer as added mass to the pr's and was not impressed on initial demo? gf was there so I kept getting the evil eye and "turn it down". I had the volume knob maxed and not much output. I think 70w not enough amp, or the extra volume that the plate amp isn't displacing its too much for the setup, or I have air leaking around mounting flanges? will have to check it out? The other 13'cube is sealed with only 1 of the 8"dvc. i havnt tried that one yet. The idea is similar to this build pair-two different setup to compare. I was skeptical that passive radiator sub would be boomy? I could always put larger sub into 13'cube? sealed or ported?
13' or 13" :-D
a 13" cube will be hard to get house shaking bass from either way. 13' on the other hand...
If you get the volume up to 50 liters we can start talking. I have 4*129 liters for bass.
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Is it the Dayton Audio SD215A-88?
If so a sealed 13" cube looks like a good match for it. Simulates well with a ~30 liter closed box.
70watts is not a bad choice, you will run into limited excursion down low anyway. Will probably be good with the Pluvia 7's.
a 13" cube will be hard to get house shaking bass from either way. 13' on the other hand...
If you get the volume up to 50 liters we can start talking. I have 4*129 liters for bass.
Edit:
Is it the Dayton Audio SD215A-88?
If so a sealed 13" cube looks like a good match for it. Simulates well with a ~30 liter closed box.
70watts is not a bad choice, you will run into limited excursion down low anyway. Will probably be good with the Pluvia 7's.
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yes, I painted a faux stone finish on them that is pretty ruff. THe sealing gaskets are pretty thin so I will seal them with proper foam gaskets. I will purchase some more washers at hardware store. I wonder if they have a scale I can weigh them on? This passive radiator thing is all new to me. Was told it will help the sub dig deeper? that is why I built one sealed as that is my preferred alignment. TIght bass. But for the grand daughter at 13 and the stuff she listens to "pop" deeper is probably better? even if it is a little muffled or boomy? thanks Mann
looking at building the CGR-MAR-KenP7. a couple of questions, if the driver is mounted on the side that is narrow, how much is the driver offset from center? or is it centered due to too narrow to offset?
the drawing shows the vent to the side, if I would like the vent out the front what are the vent length from the inside of the baffle? I assume the vent opening remains the same but maybe one opening instead of two?
funny but it is rather close the the simple br i will build for the TB W5. will be interesting indeed to compare
the drawing shows the vent to the side, if I would like the vent out the front what are the vent length from the inside of the baffle? I assume the vent opening remains the same but maybe one opening instead of two?
funny but it is rather close the the simple br i will build for the TB W5. will be interesting indeed to compare
what?
I know nothing about vent calculations except if its to small then can be noisy/chuffing.
"that would mean decreasing the length which is already kinda short. But doable". Am i supposed to guess or what?lol. Its your design, if it won't work let me know. If it will what should the port dims be? what about driver offset from center? Is that not the theory of golden rule as no sides are equal or something? Also, in the drawing for the braces for the driver and sides there is no holes? I assume some should be in there like 40% right?
I am going to cut these in the morning as my plan. Thanks for sharing your design. I look forward to seeing what this little MA driver and your enclosure is all about.
not following you man? yes original design is for front venting on the long side of the of the box. If I was to move the driver to the narrow side like in the pic can I move the port to the new front with the driver? Is the port designed for volume of air and velocity, or is it tuned like ml-tl thing where the length is the important thing? I don't think i want a slot on the long side of my speaker, with the driver facing me?
I know nothing about vent calculations except if its to small then can be noisy/chuffing.
"that would mean decreasing the length which is already kinda short. But doable". Am i supposed to guess or what?lol. Its your design, if it won't work let me know. If it will what should the port dims be? what about driver offset from center? Is that not the theory of golden rule as no sides are equal or something? Also, in the drawing for the braces for the driver and sides there is no holes? I assume some should be in there like 40% right?
I am going to cut these in the morning as my plan. Thanks for sharing your design. I look forward to seeing what this little MA driver and your enclosure is all about.
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Yes the vent could be moved to the narrow side. I don’t know that it is wide enuff to support the entire width of vent used on the front. If it becomes narrower it either needs to get taller to maintain the length or shorter to support the decreases cross-section.
ML-TL vents are the same as BR vents, they are not the same size in the same volume box thou.
Due to the high R this is usually not a problem, but in the miniOnken th event is usually much larger than the minimum suggested.
The narrow side is to narrow to support much anything other than centred. In the preferred wide format golden ratio can be used (and is recommended). Althou i have placed them in the centre in the drawing i have done.
Yes, the holey brace has holes — 30-40%. The drawing i am looking at has them shown (i can’t find the plan i put on-line :shrug: so am looking at the more complete planset).
dave
Update to subwoofer problem
My disappointment in the Trisha sub was my own fault. I put the sub for tryout into my main system with more powerful sub amp! Everything was dialed in based on more powerful amp/sub so when I plugged in less power it was recieving less gain.
I took the rig to the garage and hooked up with speaker outs from tda7298 stereo amp and used speaker out on plate amp, now at less than 50% gain knob on plate amp it really thumps! Mr Mann you were exactly right, Dayton 70amp is about right for the 8” doc sub. I haven’t weighed the washers and bolt for proper mass to add to the two passive radiators yet but am optimistic that it will work fine! Woopwoop
My disappointment in the Trisha sub was my own fault. I put the sub for tryout into my main system with more powerful sub amp! Everything was dialed in based on more powerful amp/sub so when I plugged in less power it was recieving less gain.
I took the rig to the garage and hooked up with speaker outs from tda7298 stereo amp and used speaker out on plate amp, now at less than 50% gain knob on plate amp it really thumps! Mr Mann you were exactly right, Dayton 70amp is about right for the 8” doc sub. I haven’t weighed the washers and bolt for proper mass to add to the two passive radiators yet but am optimistic that it will work fine! Woopwoop
Thanks Kent. Working out ok I guess. I cut the pieces for your specified enclosure for the w5. It is quite large. I ended up using 3/4” mdf as I had a fair amount after building two subs. What would be the smallest I could go without loosing all the magic? I know optimized for the driver is best but that 13+ depth almost covers the desk from back to front!
I will have to check the numbers over again. Just woke up, our youngest where just "casually" singing really loud in her bed, an by some chance managed to wake almost everyone.
Smaller enclosure = higher tuning frequency, i.e. it will not go as low in the bass before giving out. If you have some measurements you want to stay within, I can look it over.
Smaller enclosure = higher tuning frequency, i.e. it will not go as low in the bass before giving out. If you have some measurements you want to stay within, I can look it over.
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