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"The Wire" Official Boards for All Projects Available Here! BAL-BAL, SE-SE, LPUHP

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B

BuildMeSomething

Member
Joined 2011
BamboszeK said:
I'm going to use this ebay.com/itm/1-506-Full-Aluminium-Mini-Headphone-Amp-Enclosure-Case-/121144811488 enclosure in my The Wire SE-SE. Anyone tried it before? Or maybe someone can recommend something better.
BTW. idk why ebay links are not working correctly
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A nice enclosure and should work well with the SE-SE... I have an identical enclosure to this for my SE-SE build plus ODAC, and have just bought this enclosure for my LPUHP build. I've used this seller before & will again once I start on a DAC build.

Paul
 
jdkJake

jdkJake

Member
Joined 2010
Paid Member
hughmama said:
Hey anyone have any recommendations on a preamp that might match the lateral fet design? I have some magneplanars that I'm thinking of driving with the amps. Probably use an active pre too.

Thinking simple kit - maybe even passive.

Thanks in advance!
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How about "The Wire"? :rolleyes:

I think that would be a most excellent as well as most appropriate pre-amp....
 
N

northernsky

Member
Joined 2008
Correct soldering?

Hi,

just finished to solder my SE-SE pcb. It was my first smd soldering.
Concerning the 49600 ICs, as you can see in the attached picture I only soldered to the pcb the side of tab. Was I right or should the complete footprint of the ICs be soldered to the pcb?

Thank you for your help

northernsky
 

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opc

opc

Member
Joined 2004
Paid Member
zyker said:
Is it possible to power up the SE-SE using 5V 1A from USB bus or charger?
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Not really... the SE-SE needs a bipolar supply of at least +/- 5V to function properly. You could build a supply with a few switchers (two boost supplies) to get a negative rail and higher voltage, but it's not ideal.

A good headphone amp needs a good supply to work well. Batteries are fine, and so is the suggested PSU, but a 5V USB bus is far from ideal without very good regulation and filtration.

Cheers,
Owen
 
P

PandazYa

Member
Joined 2011
Owen I've connected my four lpuhp to my active speaker this morning. They have burn in about 30 hours before the first test few hours ago and they already sound so good. I had some cheap tripath amp before and I don't have much to say. It's like comparing a Rolls Royce with a Kia worthless...

So quiet, dynamic with infinite clarity that's for sure the stuff I like the most in my setup with my diy speaker. I need to find the perfect DAC to match them now.

I'm not using heatsink do you think it's ok Owen?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
opc

opc

Member
Joined 2004
Paid Member
BamboszeK said:
Just finished my SE-SE and PSU soldering. It was my first SMD job ;)
I have about 0.5 Ohm from Q3's tab to heatsink pin. In Q4 there is no connection. Is Q3 right, or maybe there is a scratch or something in Q3's insulating TIM causing short to ground?
I can't wait to get enclosure and transformer to test and listen to it :)
Some photos: The Wire - Imgur
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Very nice work indeed! You're a natural when it comes to SMD work :)

As for the tab of Q3, it is indeed electrically connected to GND on the board itself, so it is expected that you will measure close to 0 ohms between the tab and heatsink even if the insulator is properly mounted. This can be seen in the schematics.

This is not true for Q4 however, as this reg has its output connected to GND and needs to be open circuit from tab to heatsink.

Looks like you're good to power it up!

Let us know how it turns out.

Cheers,
Owen
 
opc

opc

Member
Joined 2004
Paid Member
zyker said:
I'm having constraint with the capacitor height. What could be the minimum capacitance on the PSU side?
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Zyker:

Some people in the past have used something like this soldered across the PTH pads on both the top and bottom:

Invalid Request

This gives a very low profile, and keeps the low ESR needed, but usually comes at the cost of lower capacitance and lower voltage rating. You may need to drop your rails down to +/-8V or so to get enough capacitance.

Can you be more specific on exactly where you have a height restriction, and what your maximum height is? Is it for the PSU, the SE-SE amp, or for something else? What are you going to to do about the heatsinks on the PSU?

Regards,
Owen
 
opc

opc

Member
Joined 2004
Paid Member
PandazYa said:
Owen I've connected my four lpuhp to my active speaker this morning. They have burn in about 30 hours before the first test few hours ago and they already sound so good. I had some cheap tripath amp before and I don't have much to say. It's like comparing a Rolls Royce with a Kia worthless...

So quiet, dynamic with infinite clarity that's for sure the stuff I like the most in my setup with my diy speaker. I need to find the perfect DAC to match them now.

I'm not using heatsink do you think it's ok Owen?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Click to expand...

Superb job on building the LPUHP! I also appreciate the feedback on your listening experience :)

I like your mounting arrangement, and the modular look for the two-way setup. My guess is that you probably do not need heatsinks, but it really depends on your usage and listening levels / speaker efficiency.

The one driving the tweeters will almost certainly not need a heatsink, but the one running the midbass / bass might need one if you're listening at high levels for long periods of time.

Do you have any way of measuring the temp on the LME49610 during operation?

Regards,
Owen
 
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