speaking of cold, and maybe soon to be much wetter things - Florida, Louisiana, etc are you there - is it time to get seriously concerned, and maybe convene another blue ribbon panel?
A Really Big Crack In An Antarctic Ice Shelf Just Got Bigger : The Two-Way : NPR
A Really Big Crack In An Antarctic Ice Shelf Just Got Bigger : The Two-Way : NPR
The breadboard for the virtual analog that I have been working on is beginning to show some life. In response to some questions on the Teensy forum I have made a short video showing some of the features. It was shot in a single take with an old Panasonic pocket camera, so the audio quality isn't great. It is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWf8Ohfw9EU&feature=youtu.be
It has been ~ -10F (-24C) the past few mornings here in central MN. Furnace seems to be on about a 66% duty cycle, although a certain portion of that is on "low".
A bit colder up north.
Weather Conditions At DW1878
A bit colder up north.
Weather Conditions At DW1878
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We got about 10 - 12cm by the end of snowfall Sunday morning. Temperatures made it into the single digits (degrees F) last night, this morning it was 10 degrees F (-12 C) when I left for work.
Managed to break one of the shear pins in my snow blower yesterday morning, first ever in fact, and too cold to fix for the moment. Fortunately I do have spare pins.
Managed to break one of the shear pins in my snow blower yesterday morning, first ever in fact, and too cold to fix for the moment. Fortunately I do have spare pins.
Cool idea about the flexible PSU.
Ken MacBeth made a LED version once, I thought it was cool.
I planned to re-use my Poly-800 NJM2609 for a VCF module.
For the DW-8000, I still need to work on the 8 individual inputs (not difficult) and then find the proper way to assign the individual 8 channels into each filter line from the Kurzweil K2500 - I am not sure I have figured this out completely yet although I know this synth really, really well - a tough feat knowing its architecture. So far, I am thinking of making 8 layers and alternating one key to each layer and cycling like this until I cover the whole keyboard.
Doesn't seem to ensure that if 'm playing 2 three-note chords, one from each hand, I do get always separated filter lines activated.
Instead it looks like I'll need to build a new contraption for voice assignment.
Following the complete re-structuring of what a direct USB-connection to a DAC means and a DIY Linear Regulated PSU (with an LM317 which I now don't recommend for audiophile purposes as the output impedance is hard to tame properly), I am currently injecting separate clean power to the DAC with a cheap (and probably not very reliable) cellular battery pack/charger. It sounds great though. The DAC, of course, goes into the Tubelab SSE with Electro-Harmonix KT-88s and big Edcors.
I am planning of engraving the front wood panel and making use of the two dark wood rings organically: There is a big one which would be the 'O' in "ThermiOn - 1".
There is a much smaller one above it which would be the 'o' in "Single-Ended TriOde".
Sounds like a very cunning plan which pleases me to no end, but I have doubts in my actual wood-engraving skills with the Dremel or with any tool for that matter. Any ideas?
This, and I've had to open the front door late last night and scrape to remove formations of ice so that the girlfriend can go to work this morning and not be blocked inside. Looks like the owner lied about having someone come fast re-work the front door winter isolation.
You got your wish
~1" at rush hour - enough to make traffic a mess
Indoor kind of night --- Was checking craigslist today and found these beauties
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/ele/5934416003.html
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/ele/5949819864.html
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/ele/5930006090.html
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/ele/5939572191.html
https://stcloud.craigslist.org/ele/5914881278.html
also, for that other dimension...
Digital Research DR-1610 Front Right, Left, and Center Speakers
..didn't know white vans were still a thing.
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The baseboard heaters aren't always inefficient. For comparison, they'll always beat heating unoccupied areas, such as the attic heated with central resistive heat's many ducts. That difference comes in at about 2x, so far as the bills are concerned.
Another way to boost the effectiveness of the baseboard heaters, is to set thermometers on the floor so as to discover the coldest places and locate the baseboards only in the coldest places.
For maximized cost effectiveness, the thermostats, preferable the timer variant, need to be located in a span of 2" to 24" from floor level. Although, it is true that the actual maximum height is the seat of your tallest chair. It is not effective and therefore not cost effective to measure temp at light switch level, unless your chairs are that tall.
For zone heat's reduced costs, the per unit wattage is 1.3kw at maximum unless the space to be heated is at 2-car garage or larger space. Although it provides a ready method to cut the bills, due to limiting over-run to a set wattage, in combination with the timer thermostats, there can be a little bit of inconvenience. It was either that or a great deal of costs.
Not just baseboards. . .
For a fan based experiment, quite likely to cut the bills, get a double pole light switch and install it at the front door. Have the switch not only knock out the room lights but also (with the other channel) one contact of a 240v 20a outlet suited for a TPI H474TMC, that famous little 4000W box heater. That example, just on average, is probably the coldest place in the house, and directly after dinner you're probably trying to watch TV, and have probably cranked up the central electric (or oil or propane) heat so you're not in pain from the cold. This is a fair example of when zone heating could do better.
Just sometimes, it takes a lot of firepower. With electric, that's a little cheaper if timer for convectors, or off with the light-switch for fan forced electric unit heaters. Variable wattage or right-sized wattage with individual units (also individual thermostats) constrained to the maximum useful wattage for maintaining a temp, also constrains over-run expenses and totally prevents expensive and uncomfortable freeze-n-burn situations. Situating the thermostats no higher than your chairs is really important for effective and effecient controls. And, then when effectiveness crosses the border into efficiency is to locate the heaters into the coldest place in the house.
Baseboards are awesome where. . .
In the bedroom! Preferably at the door or window or wherever the coldest spot is. You can add an accessory outlet to your baseboard and use that, controlled by the thermostat, to also run your electric mattress heater or electric blanket. Honeywell and Aube have timer thermostats for this. Because there's no fan, it will need an hour head start. Relevant models include Cadet 500W for the smallest bedroom ever, King 750W for a moderate size bedroom, Cadet 1000W for a decent sized bedroom.
Panel heaters?
Those are different looking baseboard heaters, aka linear convectors. The larger surface area, is, as claimed, a goodly advantage for more efficient air conduction. The efficiency difference is technically zilch. However, the energy cost effectiveness difference for the panels can be greater because the larger surface area makes the panel heaters less reliant on location. To maximize a baseboard, it has to be positioned in the very coldest place. And that isn't always convenient. The larger surface area of the panel convector gives a benefit of a sort of forgiveness (technically ballast), in that you can position it "somewhat near" the coldest place and it will still work just as well. So, when the coldest place (that's the area suited for electric heater effectiveness) doesn't fit a baseboard, that's the place to spend for the panel heater.
Radiant. . .
Either it is aimed at people or else it just another version of linear convector, like the baseboard and panel. I've never seen it done; however, it should be possible to combine a radiant heater with a motion sensor to achieve a fantastic efficiency. Otherwise, it is just another way to spell convector.
Cove. . .
Quite expensive, possibly attractive and doesn't block furniture. The cove sorely lacks for the ability to eat/change floor level cold air. As such, it doesn't stand a chance for efficiency on the ground/first floor. The cove heater does have a chance on the second and higher floors. Also Florida. And, it could be valid where nothing else fits.
Electric floor heat. . .
On the ground floor, unless there has been added special under-floor insulation, the electric floor heat can't outperform baseboard heaters sized individually no larger than 1.3kw per unit with individual controls. However, the unified controls of the electric floor heat could be more convenient. On the second and higher floors, the electric floor heat would be the most efficient electric option, because the floor is the coldest and heating the coldest relevant area is the most efficient for electric heat.
The electric floor heat is still less costly than central electric resistive heat.
However, on the first floor, the TPIH474 would run less costly than electric floor heat, unless the floor is specially insulated underneath.
Even baseboards (of 1.3kw or less, individually) or panel heaters would beat electric floor heat, on the ground floor, unless the floor is specially, thickly and thoroughly insulated.
Except for the first floor, electric floor heat can be fantastic for multi-story dwellings.
Gas, wood and Kerosene. . .
These cost so much less than electric heat that it is difficult to use an electric heater efficiently when these other, much cheaper options, are present.
The good news is that baseboards/panels in the bedroom allow you to set back the temp of the fuel heaters without a freezing bedroom. If done on timer, the electric heat for just the bedroom won't make the average bill bigger. The bad news is that it probably won't reduce the bill. Well, when you heat 200 square feet at 3x the cost, then you save nothing. But then the good news for electric is that a 1KW Cadet or King in the bedroom won't blow in allergens all night long, doesn't make noise, doesn't make fumes and doesn't make the bill go higher (do use the timer). You can achieve california weather in the bedroom, because little and medium size convectors just don't have the capacity to make freeze-n-burn errors. You can also add an accessory outlet (simply in parallel to the convector heater) to control a mattress heater, situated atop the box springs, not the mattress. Well, as is evident, that does nothing while the room is temperate. And, you could set the temp at 69 degrees that way. Then, room goes cold, a 1kw cadet convector (or farther south, a 750w king) goes on, also mattress heater (on the box springs) goes on, and you don't get cold or hot either. It still doesn't compete with the price of gas/wood/kerosene. However, there is some chance that electric could do more comfortable for the bedroom without costing more.
Summary. . .
I listed bedroom with the 1kw silent convector on a timer thermostat that also heats the box springs.
And, the living room with the light switch that also switches the TPIH474 box heater on only during occupancy.
These two examples compete with the cheaper forms of heat while also delivering greater comfort without significant cost increase.
I also mentioned positioning the electric heaters at the very coldest place in the room, as an effectiveness mandate. And, I did also mention positioning the controls no higher up than the tallest chair.
Curiosity. . .
The few and usually inconvenient examples of electric resistance heat that didn't raise the bills further than gas/wood/kerosene, are at least curious. That ought to be impossible. Electric efficiency is a fixed value, so it ought to never do 3x. Evidently, out with that assumption! Really efficient electric resistive heat will be more bother and more conditional than cheaper forms of heat. On with the assumption that it will take great care/concern. As we all are all well aware, flexing the laws of physics, is a great sport and really inconvenient (quite likely that inconvenience is proportionately linear, as is evident). Now, that is just exactly how low cost electric heat works.
Dumbass. . .
I have indeed gotten the bill in the mail for dumbass. It is about $2k for idiot in normal size house. That was a great service because informative in that we shouldn't make a habit of that. I changed to cheapest fuel heat for living quarters during daytime and timer baseboard (plus box springs) heat at nighttime. This is actually much more comfortable! And, it is six times cheaper. This is really tree saving because it only takes one page to print the bill.
Another way to boost the effectiveness of the baseboard heaters, is to set thermometers on the floor so as to discover the coldest places and locate the baseboards only in the coldest places.
For maximized cost effectiveness, the thermostats, preferable the timer variant, need to be located in a span of 2" to 24" from floor level. Although, it is true that the actual maximum height is the seat of your tallest chair. It is not effective and therefore not cost effective to measure temp at light switch level, unless your chairs are that tall.
For zone heat's reduced costs, the per unit wattage is 1.3kw at maximum unless the space to be heated is at 2-car garage or larger space. Although it provides a ready method to cut the bills, due to limiting over-run to a set wattage, in combination with the timer thermostats, there can be a little bit of inconvenience. It was either that or a great deal of costs.
Not just baseboards. . .
For a fan based experiment, quite likely to cut the bills, get a double pole light switch and install it at the front door. Have the switch not only knock out the room lights but also (with the other channel) one contact of a 240v 20a outlet suited for a TPI H474TMC, that famous little 4000W box heater. That example, just on average, is probably the coldest place in the house, and directly after dinner you're probably trying to watch TV, and have probably cranked up the central electric (or oil or propane) heat so you're not in pain from the cold. This is a fair example of when zone heating could do better.
Just sometimes, it takes a lot of firepower. With electric, that's a little cheaper if timer for convectors, or off with the light-switch for fan forced electric unit heaters. Variable wattage or right-sized wattage with individual units (also individual thermostats) constrained to the maximum useful wattage for maintaining a temp, also constrains over-run expenses and totally prevents expensive and uncomfortable freeze-n-burn situations. Situating the thermostats no higher than your chairs is really important for effective and effecient controls. And, then when effectiveness crosses the border into efficiency is to locate the heaters into the coldest place in the house.
Baseboards are awesome where. . .
In the bedroom! Preferably at the door or window or wherever the coldest spot is. You can add an accessory outlet to your baseboard and use that, controlled by the thermostat, to also run your electric mattress heater or electric blanket. Honeywell and Aube have timer thermostats for this. Because there's no fan, it will need an hour head start. Relevant models include Cadet 500W for the smallest bedroom ever, King 750W for a moderate size bedroom, Cadet 1000W for a decent sized bedroom.
Panel heaters?
Those are different looking baseboard heaters, aka linear convectors. The larger surface area, is, as claimed, a goodly advantage for more efficient air conduction. The efficiency difference is technically zilch. However, the energy cost effectiveness difference for the panels can be greater because the larger surface area makes the panel heaters less reliant on location. To maximize a baseboard, it has to be positioned in the very coldest place. And that isn't always convenient. The larger surface area of the panel convector gives a benefit of a sort of forgiveness (technically ballast), in that you can position it "somewhat near" the coldest place and it will still work just as well. So, when the coldest place (that's the area suited for electric heater effectiveness) doesn't fit a baseboard, that's the place to spend for the panel heater.
Radiant. . .
Either it is aimed at people or else it just another version of linear convector, like the baseboard and panel. I've never seen it done; however, it should be possible to combine a radiant heater with a motion sensor to achieve a fantastic efficiency. Otherwise, it is just another way to spell convector.
Cove. . .
Quite expensive, possibly attractive and doesn't block furniture. The cove sorely lacks for the ability to eat/change floor level cold air. As such, it doesn't stand a chance for efficiency on the ground/first floor. The cove heater does have a chance on the second and higher floors. Also Florida. And, it could be valid where nothing else fits.
Electric floor heat. . .
On the ground floor, unless there has been added special under-floor insulation, the electric floor heat can't outperform baseboard heaters sized individually no larger than 1.3kw per unit with individual controls. However, the unified controls of the electric floor heat could be more convenient. On the second and higher floors, the electric floor heat would be the most efficient electric option, because the floor is the coldest and heating the coldest relevant area is the most efficient for electric heat.
The electric floor heat is still less costly than central electric resistive heat.
However, on the first floor, the TPIH474 would run less costly than electric floor heat, unless the floor is specially insulated underneath.
Even baseboards (of 1.3kw or less, individually) or panel heaters would beat electric floor heat, on the ground floor, unless the floor is specially, thickly and thoroughly insulated.
Except for the first floor, electric floor heat can be fantastic for multi-story dwellings.
Gas, wood and Kerosene. . .
These cost so much less than electric heat that it is difficult to use an electric heater efficiently when these other, much cheaper options, are present.
The good news is that baseboards/panels in the bedroom allow you to set back the temp of the fuel heaters without a freezing bedroom. If done on timer, the electric heat for just the bedroom won't make the average bill bigger. The bad news is that it probably won't reduce the bill. Well, when you heat 200 square feet at 3x the cost, then you save nothing. But then the good news for electric is that a 1KW Cadet or King in the bedroom won't blow in allergens all night long, doesn't make noise, doesn't make fumes and doesn't make the bill go higher (do use the timer). You can achieve california weather in the bedroom, because little and medium size convectors just don't have the capacity to make freeze-n-burn errors. You can also add an accessory outlet (simply in parallel to the convector heater) to control a mattress heater, situated atop the box springs, not the mattress. Well, as is evident, that does nothing while the room is temperate. And, you could set the temp at 69 degrees that way. Then, room goes cold, a 1kw cadet convector (or farther south, a 750w king) goes on, also mattress heater (on the box springs) goes on, and you don't get cold or hot either. It still doesn't compete with the price of gas/wood/kerosene. However, there is some chance that electric could do more comfortable for the bedroom without costing more.
Summary. . .
I listed bedroom with the 1kw silent convector on a timer thermostat that also heats the box springs.
And, the living room with the light switch that also switches the TPIH474 box heater on only during occupancy.
These two examples compete with the cheaper forms of heat while also delivering greater comfort without significant cost increase.
I also mentioned positioning the electric heaters at the very coldest place in the room, as an effectiveness mandate. And, I did also mention positioning the controls no higher up than the tallest chair.
Curiosity. . .
The few and usually inconvenient examples of electric resistance heat that didn't raise the bills further than gas/wood/kerosene, are at least curious. That ought to be impossible. Electric efficiency is a fixed value, so it ought to never do 3x. Evidently, out with that assumption! Really efficient electric resistive heat will be more bother and more conditional than cheaper forms of heat. On with the assumption that it will take great care/concern. As we all are all well aware, flexing the laws of physics, is a great sport and really inconvenient (quite likely that inconvenience is proportionately linear, as is evident). Now, that is just exactly how low cost electric heat works.
Dumbass. . .
I have indeed gotten the bill in the mail for dumbass. It is about $2k for idiot in normal size house. That was a great service because informative in that we shouldn't make a habit of that. I changed to cheapest fuel heat for living quarters during daytime and timer baseboard (plus box springs) heat at nighttime. This is actually much more comfortable! And, it is six times cheaper. This is really tree saving because it only takes one page to print the bill.
Coming back from picking up my new glasses, I looked up and noticed a modest sprinkling of snow on the top of Mt. Hamilton, the highest peak visible in the San Jose/Silicon Valley area (4216 ft.). If the weather gets serious, I've seen the snow come down as low as Mt. Umunhum (3489 ft.), another nearby peak that sports a noticeable concrete bunker that is the last vestige of an Cold War-era radar early warning station. Never snow on the ground here for the 30+ years I've been in this area.
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