tiroth said:
Are you sure? Here we have an aviation inspector claiming that it's gold: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=170341#post170341
The clear one is used for bonding applications only and is not that strong. But it would be interesting to try it out.
Bricolo said:I got some difficulties to find this topic, since I searched for "the way to build a chassis" and not with peter's "built" and "chassiss"
Peter: my aluminium plates aren't flat :/ they are a little curved
since it's 6mm thick, I see no easy way to correct this.
Do you have an idea to fix this?
I can post pictures if you want
When you implement it in a chassiss construction it should flatten out. Just use enough support points (and strong screws
).
Bricolo said:I got some difficulties to find this topic, since I searched for "the way to build a chassis" and not with peter's "built" and "chassiss"
Peter: my aluminium plates aren't flat :/ they are a little curved
since it's 6mm thick, I see no easy way to correct this.
Do you have an idea to fix this?
I can post pictures if you want
The front plate (6mm alu) of my BOZ in progress, was also bent considerably, but since I didn’t want any screws in the front plate it was hard to get it flat the way peter describes. Here’s what I did: I clamped the edges of the plate to my workbench using to pieces of 25mm mdf in between (at the edges only so that you got a 25 mm air gap under the plate. I den took a BIG clamp and with a piece of mdf between the clamp and plate I started to tighten the clamp at the middle of the plate, releasing every now and then to check the progress. Then I drilled 4mm deep holes in the back, tapped them and fastened an angle to the back using screws and epoxy to straighten out the last bend.
Peter Daniel said:
Peter you are correct. I made a mistake.
1001 for clear coat.
http://64.225.100.203/ShopSite/Alodine1001.html
OK, thanks to you and KermitPeter Daniel said:
That's why I said 'strong screws'
But, if you want to make it straight, woodworking clamps and a piece of wood under should work here, just control the pressure and don't overdo. Kermit descibed pretty well.
What do you call strong screws? is 5mm good?
I am trying to build an enclosure for the AKSA 55W amplifier. The problem that I have is that I cannot find aluminium bars 10mm for the side panels in Greece. I can only find 3mm aluminium sheets. So I am planning on using two 3mm aluminium sheets for the bottom cover, and one 3mm aluminium sheet for the top cover. I have also found brass side panels of 6mm width. So the question is:
Can I use brass panels and sheets to build this enclosure over the aluminium alternative. Is brass magnetic?
If I use wooden side panels and brass or aluminium sheets for the other sides then will this be OK?
Thanks
George
Can I use brass panels and sheets to build this enclosure over the aluminium alternative. Is brass magnetic?
If I use wooden side panels and brass or aluminium sheets for the other sides then will this be OK?
Thanks
George
This thing is a looks a bit rough for finish work. It is likely designed for electricians to use after drilling a KO in the side of a junction box.
Nonetheless I thought it was a neat new twist on the rotary file and was wondering if anyone had tried one yet.
http://www.greenlee.textron.com/archive/ma-4425.pdf
Nonetheless I thought it was a neat new twist on the rotary file and was wondering if anyone had tried one yet.
http://www.greenlee.textron.com/archive/ma-4425.pdf
Attachments
micarda sides.
Peter..the side material looks like micarda..we use that a lot here.
I recall there being some kind of safety issue surrounding cutting or sanding of it, though..
I recommend masks for that.
Cheers, John
Peter Daniel said:This could actually make the chassiss complete, yet for me it seems a bit unfinished like that, too much cold looking without definition. What I'm doing to improve on that is adding additional side panels. I have found this really nice surplus place and for last 10 years they had those cut off pieces of some fiber materal. It looks better than wood and is much stronger and doesn't require finishing after cutting. This is what I'm using here. I think it looks better that way
Peter..the side material looks like micarda..we use that a lot here.
I recall there being some kind of safety issue surrounding cutting or sanding of it, though..
I recommend masks for that.
Cheers, John
I remember the night I was hanging lights for a dinner theater production, scraping the asbestos off of I-beams above a suspended ceiling to make good places to attach beam clamps.
I was covered in the stuff when someone came up to me with a newspaper and showed me the article about asbestosis and carcinogenic properties.
That must have been 25 years ago. So far, so good. It seems however that if its gonna happen, Im about due.
I was covered in the stuff when someone came up to me with a newspaper and showed me the article about asbestosis and carcinogenic properties.
That must have been 25 years ago. So far, so good. It seems however that if its gonna happen, Im about due.
Banned
Joined 2002
Heh. Although Peter Daniel's cases are much neater than mine, you can get some excellent results without messing with endless machining using 1/8" copper and solder. However, you need an oxy-acetylene torch for silver solder to really join the copper well.
(The upside of this method? Your entire case becomes a really, really big heatsink, in addition to being durable. The downside? Dropping it on your foot REALLY hurts.)
Stained glass can also give excellent results. Although I'm too lazy to spend a week on a small panel of glass, the faceplate to my GC is a neat bit of glass I found at some point. I might swap it out, though; I like machined metal better.
That said, I just gained access to a MIG welder, and am learning how to use it. I'm also learning how to braze metal, which opens yet more opprotunities. And I'm pretty decent at lost-wax casting, too; at some point, I'll figure out how to use aluminum. (Why pay money for heatsinks when you can recycle?)
I wish I had a digital camera....
(The upside of this method? Your entire case becomes a really, really big heatsink, in addition to being durable. The downside? Dropping it on your foot REALLY hurts.)
Stained glass can also give excellent results. Although I'm too lazy to spend a week on a small panel of glass, the faceplate to my GC is a neat bit of glass I found at some point. I might swap it out, though; I like machined metal better.
That said, I just gained access to a MIG welder, and am learning how to use it. I'm also learning how to braze metal, which opens yet more opprotunities. And I'm pretty decent at lost-wax casting, too; at some point, I'll figure out how to use aluminum. (Why pay money for heatsinks when you can recycle?)
I wish I had a digital camera....
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