The Pass Pub: The High-End Off Topic Thread

Whats the verdict on filter and boxing of a pair of 3804? Do I want to dig bass out of it or go 3-way

Go 3way.

Tannoy did with all there top of the range models like FSM, Dreadnaught, System 215 and Kingdoms.

I did with mine and the improvement in the mids once the DC does not have to do low bass duties is quite remarkable.


You can NOT use a waveguide HF crossover for a pepperpot driver. They are very different and different require eq in the high pass.
 
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JBL proggie , if you have win 32b at hand , is exactly same routine as Eliot's ,

however , it's neat , holding your hand through entire process

besides that SIgJenny prog is , in same time , both siggene and counter

ping me with e-mail addy if you want it

Ok thanks. Dont beleave I have a 32 bit at hand, ping u if. In the meantime, collecting data in XL for my 15XA38Nd, the 2152H, Coral10 and the 3804 so I have them handy, and know what I dont have. Darn mess with papers and notes everywhere:whacko:

Go 3way.

Tannoy did with all there top of the range models like FSM, Dreadnaught, System 215 and Kingdoms.

I did with mine and the improvement in the mids once the DC does not have to do low bass duties is quite remarkable.


You can NOT use a waveguide HF crossover for a pepperpot driver. They are very different and different require eq in the high pass.

Thanks CD. I will most probably go 3-way, ie bass helper element. Xover suggestions from you? Any suggestions for a matching 15? Oldie legends are coolest but I can go for new prods also. A little into a horizontal tapped horn for LF under an open baffle with coax element atm. Got some successful constructors of THs in a swedish community site

PS. Havent got them elements in my hand yet but I dont beleave its pepperpots.

Sellers pix
 

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Not being pepperpots makes things simpler.
The tulip (waveguide) tweeters only need the usual boost that all constant directivity horns require. The pepperpots needed an extra cut lower down to get rid of the 'horn honk'.

As for crossover frequency I'd go no lower than 175Hz so you can put the DC in a small sealed cab. I don't know about the 3804 specifically but all Tannoys I've ever simmed start to roll off at around 150-175Hz in a sealed cab.
Also you can get them to within 1/4 wavelength so as not to lose any of Tannoys point-sourciness.

I don't think you need a tapped horn for this. A good driver in a well built BR or T/L would be my preference. I also would run at least the extra woofer active and in case your Tannoys come without xovers I'd run the whole thing 3way active.

Haven't looked into 15" woofers to match DCs, mostly because I have 12s and my space is limited. Ended up with 12" Volts because I had the money and at the time I struggled to find paper-coned woofers that went low and loud enough.
Back then I was a bit more anal about cone materials and mixing them than I am now.
You live and learn...
 
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Aha, thanks. Well soffit mounting in my balcony window might be hard so I guess I skip that:D

But its maybe not so opposite in every way. OB is a bit like building a wall large enough to avoid half-wavelength cancellation. Edge diffraction avoidance is also common
 
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Aha, thanks. Well soffit mounting in my balcony window might be hard so I guess I skip that:D

My favourite placement is either side of a window.

The visual depth aides the illusion of depth within the stereo field ie when I see the wall the brain overrides auditory depth clues making free standing speakers appear to have the upper hand in that regard but once you close your eyes there is no difference between them.
On or in the wall is more convenient and avoids the need for baffle step compensation. I find the idea of making my speakers knowingly less sensitive quite loathsome.
 
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I have just rearranged my setup. Tried to have different cans in corners both sides of balcony windows, me sitting in the middle, 60-60-60 degrees me and spks. Impossible to make do, ugliness of reflektions. Now I sit in the same spot looking into the corner, speakers mid wall so I have even broader angle between me and spks. Delightful stereo, instruments easily placed in position and deapht. Almost a little to much on some recordings
 
At the moment mine are in corners either side of a wide window but there isn't much glass to be seen. The speakers effectively border an indoor jungle consisting of a couple of banana plants, a ficus, a couple of orchids and some little coffee plants.
Works quite well as a diffusor and it keeps a bit of moisture in the air during the heating period. ;-)

I tend to be a lot closer to my speakers than the 60-60-60 dogma would prescribe.
I'm just a near-field kind of guy which is possibly one reason I like point-sources: You can be almost arbitrarily close to the speakers because the is no minimum distance involved for the drivers output to merge and up to a point it just gets better and more realistic. After that point it is like headphones with tactile bass!
With enough clean power and life-like SPL you think you should be able to feel the singers breath on your face.

Just don't look at the speakers, that ruins everything. Actually best not to look at all, the amount of detail I hear increases dramatically the moment I close my eyes.
 
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She's in the splash again. https://share.delorme.com/ATRAXIA

Other than that I was visiting a nice old dude yesterday. A jolly piece of swedish dragracing history. A double garage and a cellar was virtually cram full with 70's speed parts. Blocks, pistons, cams, whole bikes and tools from floor to ceiling. Had to walk sideways to look around. Braught my top with runaway valve seating. Guy's eyes were shining when he saw who had ported it back in the days, the legend Grottis, the mastermind of mc tuning back in the days. Anyways, he shall take a look at it, and in the meantime ofc suggested hundreds of tuning tricks. I just saw the $$$ flying. Well, we'll see where we end up. Winter is cuming.

He said its him in the end of this clip. Santa Pod 1982 https://youtu.be/iimNRl429Is
 
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