The new "My Ref" Rev C thread

Here is a start.

wiring.gif
 
Thanks a million, Bob! I think i finally understand how to hook them up. Just to confirm if i'm on the right track, "OUT" is for the red binding post (+ve); "OGRND" is for the black binding post; "IN" is hot for rca in, "IGND" is for the rca shield.

AC1 is +24v, AC2 is 0V (if i'm not wrong, it doesn't matter which way it is right? AC1 can be 0v, AC2 can be +24v?).

My transformer has dual secondaries -> 0 --- 24 V (Black Green) 0 --- 24 V (Black Green), so if AC1 is black 0V (1st group), then AC2 is Green 24V (2nd group), and PGND is combined Green (1st group) + Black (2nd group). Did i make any mistakes so far?

Is there a need to use all three solder pads for AC1, AC2 and PGND? Or only the 2 square solder pads matter? From your pictures it looks that way, with the circular solder pad not being used, or am i wrong?

Also, what is the name of the plastic 3 pin hook up connectors you used? I see this used in almost every amp build but i don't know what it's called.
 
Just to confirm if i'm on the right track
...
AC1 is +24v, AC2 is 0V (if i'm not wrong, it doesn't matter which way it is right? AC1 can be 0v, AC2 can be +24v?).
...
Is there a need to use all three solder pads for AC1, AC2 and PGND?

You're on the right path to burn something...;)

You must wire this way 0 (AC1) ---- 24V-0V (PGND) ----24V(AC2)

See the wiring section on my tutorial (do you have it, right?)

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/134726-new-my-ref-rev-c-thread-22.html#post2312443
 
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Dario, thank you for that link, i must have missed it while reading the thread. Your build guide is tremendously helpful, now i wish i had seen it before commencing the build :D

What specific tests should i be running on the board to make sure everything is in order? On which parts and what are the optimal values?

Bob, thanks for the link! Yea, i'm definitely not taking any chances and making sure i did everything right before plugging it in.

Other than the transformer error on my part, did i get the other sections' (IN, OUT, OGRND) hook up correct?
 
Cersepn,

Glad you got the build guide. It sounds like you understand the signal in/out part.

Two suggestions:
1. Go to the gallery section of the forum and look at as many examples as needed to get a feel for a bunch of constants on all amp builds.
2. Post some photos of your progress (drawings/diagrams if no camera is available). The people on the forum are excellent at spotting potential errors/problems and giving the right guidance.

Also those terminal strips are not hard to find. Radio Shack has several sizes in stock.
 
will there be any discussions about regulators for lm318 in the near future?

I've had confimation from a source I trust that better regulators (like those on the My_Evo or the Salas Shunt) makes an important improvement.

These, though, are not in the near future...

Dario, thank you for that link, i must have missed it while reading the thread. Your build guide is tremendously helpful, now i wish i had seen it before commencing the build :D

You're welcome ;)

What specific tests should i be running on the board to make sure everything is in order? On which parts and what are the optimal values?

IMHO you should simply power on modules (input shorted, output disconnected, heatsinked) if relais 'click' you have probably functioning modules.

After that meausre output DC offset, it should be less than 10mV (typical 3.5mV).

If these two tests are passed you can connect modules to speakers and source and enjoy music...

If not then it could be useful to take others measures...
 
Yesterday was terribly hot and humid here, so I spent the day/evening in my cool and humid basement, assembling this conglomeration of gear. The amp is from the latest Ultimate BOM group buy. I built it several months ago but just hooked it up now. All is well: one, yes one mV DC offset, absolutely quiet. In fact, even with all this stuff inside one enclosure, it's more quiet than when everything was spread out. Sound is a little closed-in yet because it takes a while for that BG to loosen up!

This is a MyRef (of course) and active xover with its power supply. The active portion separates bass from mids/highs at 350Hz, LR 24dB/octave. It is a PCB from ESP.

Sorry that I'm not a good photographer (Bob is much better), but I build a pretty nice amp.

Wiring needs a little cleaning up, but I just wanted to get the thing all put together and try it before spending too much time doing that. Besides, tidy wiring is overrated. The important thing is what the wire is hooked up to!

Also, just for the heck of it, here is a pic of the passive portion of the xover, which separates tweeter from mids at about 2.9k. This was designed by Madisound, built by me. The long, skinny tube in the center is a Duelund resistor, in series with tweeter. Tweeter caps are Sonicap bypassed by Mundorf SIO. The rest of it is pretty standard.

Peace,
Tom E
 

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is it the box?

further troubleshooting my hum problem, seems that flexing the box affects the hum, along with fiddling with transformer wires. if i touch the transformer wires a certain way, the hum disappears. same with the box flexed but that only alleviates the hum on the right channel and only temporarily. grounding is properly connected so could this be the box or the transformer itself?
 
Today I'm sad (crying like a baby)

If someone is willing to improve C3/C8 a substantial upgrade are the Mundorf M-Lythic AG (MLPI).

When I'll re-release the updated 'Ultimate BOM' they will be the first choice for those positions.

The inprovement is general but the two more important parameters improved are a much more balanced timbre and cleanliness of high frequecies.

Their cost is quite double vs the TS-HA but, wow!

Today I've reinstalled the TS-HA since I've to return the Mundorfs to his owner...

The full bodied yet detailed and refined sound has disappeared! :eek:

The bathroom is here again... :(

Those MPLI are a MUST for me...

But I must wait september to buy them, no budget available now...

One thing is sure for me, now: TS-HAs are not the right caps for this amp...
 
I've had very good results with Audiocap Theta film and foil caps, for me they sound very close to no caps. They might be a lot cheaper alternative to carry you over until you can save up to get the Mundorf's.

Hi PJN,

no, I'm not talking of the input coupling caps, my Zns are in place...:D

I'm talking about the big reservoir caps (C3/C8 10000uF)

Now that the new solder start to stabilize I've regained a bit but the timbre difference with the M-Lythics is BIG.