Re: tweeters
Don't discard those so easily. National alnico 2" cone tweeters. Aperiodically loaded to boot (they will need their own cabinet. 3.3uF used in series gives ~4k XO (assumming they are 8 ohms -- seems a bit low). Tweeked up with some phase plugs you could well find these embarrass some respected domes.
Puzzlecoat is a particular flavour of PVA that tends to remain more flexibla than thinned white glue. That is not to important with a woofer, with a full range you don't want to add to much, or stiffen so much as to kill the top end. (what & how you treat a woofer will be different than dealing with a FR)
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/design/tweeks.html
I've not used it, but some recommend Polyacrylic -- the 2 drivers i've ended up done with this i was not impressed with.
John's suggesttion, i have no idea. I know you can get water based versions. I'd test it on something expendable 1st -- for a FR it might stiffen things too much.
dave
enzedone said:The tweeters are about 80mm across, the cones are about 57mm in diameter.
There are/were two per unit, rated at 3w ea. in series. They have two caps parallel; 3.3mf.
Don't discard those so easily. National alnico 2" cone tweeters. Aperiodically loaded to boot (they will need their own cabinet. 3.3uF used in series gives ~4k XO (assumming they are 8 ohms -- seems a bit low). Tweeked up with some phase plugs you could well find these embarrass some respected domes.
Puzzlecoat is a particular flavour of PVA that tends to remain more flexibla than thinned white glue. That is not to important with a woofer, with a full range you don't want to add to much, or stiffen so much as to kill the top end. (what & how you treat a woofer will be different than dealing with a FR)
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/design/tweeks.html
I've not used it, but some recommend Polyacrylic -- the 2 drivers i've ended up done with this i was not impressed with.
John's suggesttion, i have no idea. I know you can get water based versions. I'd test it on something expendable 1st -- for a FR it might stiffen things too much.
dave
Re: Re: tweeters
It worked for me really well. Cone was in good shape to begin with , but seemed too soft, like pages in an old paperback. The bass it produced was blurry, not well defined. After treatment, much better - smooth, clear bass and cleaner midrange.
The Varathane brought it to life.
Tested a couple Hz lower for Fs after (due to mass load).
planet10 said:
John's suggesttion, i have no idea. I know you can get water based versions. I'd test it on something expendable 1st -- for a FR it might stiffen things too much.
It worked for me really well. Cone was in good shape to begin with , but seemed too soft, like pages in an old paperback. The bass it produced was blurry, not well defined. After treatment, much better - smooth, clear bass and cleaner midrange.
The Varathane brought it to life.
Tested a couple Hz lower for Fs after (due to mass load).
Re: Re: Re: tweeters
That sounds about right...
It was a woofer thou? Not a FR?
dave
MJL21193 said:It worked for me really well. Cone was in good shape to begin with , but seemed too soft, like pages in an old paperback. The bass it produced was blurry, not well defined. After treatment, much better - smooth, clear bass and cleaner midrange.
That sounds about right...
It was a woofer thou? Not a FR?
dave
Re: Re: Re: Re: tweeters
Yes, 10" woofer.
planet10 said:
That sounds about right...
It was a woofer thou? Not a FR?
Yes, 10" woofer.
Re: Correction on the tweters
Are the Ts 4 or 8 ohms? If 4 ohms nominal XO would be ~ 7k, if 8 twice that (which would mean they were being used where they are at their best)
You'll find that they will work best if used singly... 1 likely won't keep up with the RA so you might well need to stash them for another project
Typically these have 1/2" VC -- i used a tapered foam earplug and cut it down till it fit. The hard part is getting a perpendicular cut. You need to attach 2 pieces of metal to the bottom -- with only 1 (i started out with a washer) they want to flop over.
dave
enzedone said:The tweeters were actually in parallel..................
I was thinking about puting them into a plate like this.
Phase plugs in these.......wow they would have to be pretty small.
Are the Ts 4 or 8 ohms? If 4 ohms nominal XO would be ~ 7k, if 8 twice that (which would mean they were being used where they are at their best)
You'll find that they will work best if used singly... 1 likely won't keep up with the RA so you might well need to stash them for another project
Typically these have 1/2" VC -- i used a tapered foam earplug and cut it down till it fit. The hard part is getting a perpendicular cut. You need to attach 2 pieces of metal to the bottom -- with only 1 (i started out with a washer) they want to flop over.
dave
Cabinets
Dave,
I saw your site with the measurements for the Mets. you have one that fits the nirvana 10", it's about 1854 high if I'm right.
I wounder if i could just use the same cabinet for my RA's
By the way I have no idea how you manage to get to answer so many different threads............Do you sleep?......
Nice going............
Brett.
Dave,
I saw your site with the measurements for the Mets. you have one that fits the nirvana 10", it's about 1854 high if I'm right.
I wounder if i could just use the same cabinet for my RA's
By the way I have no idea how you manage to get to answer so many different threads............Do you sleep?......
Nice going............
Brett.
Re: Cabinets
It would really be nice to see some T/S parameters before trying to answer that one. ML-TLs & ML-Vs have proven to be pretty tolerant of differing T/S paramaters thou.
not enuff...
dave
enzedone said:I saw your site with the measurements for the Mets. you have one that fits the nirvana 10", it's about 1854 high if I'm right.
I wounder if i could just use the same cabinet for my RA's
It would really be nice to see some T/S parameters before trying to answer that one. ML-TLs & ML-Vs have proven to be pretty tolerant of differing T/S paramaters thou.
By the way I have no idea how you manage to get to answer so many different threads............Do you sleep?......
not enuff...
dave
Re: Re: Cabinets
that curtunly explanes sum of the speling
planet10 said:
It would really be nice to see some T/S parameters before trying to answer that one. ML-TLs & ML-Vs have proven to be pretty tolerant of differing T/S paramaters thou.
re: sleep -
not enuff...
dave
that curtunly explanes sum of the speling
Cal Weldon said:You plick!
you forgot to say "rittre"
hey sailor, did you plan on bringing the little PA system to the next BBQ? I still have some hearing left that needs to be destroyed to be on the same level as yourself.
chrisb said:did you plan on bringing the little PA system to the next BBQ?
I was hoping to hear that with some of the little tube amps subbed in....
dave
chrisb said:hey sailor, did you plan on bringing the little PA system to the next BBQ? I still have some hearing left that needs to be destroyed to be on the same level as yourself.
What's that? Could you please type in caps so I can hear you?
Sorry Chris, can't bring it. I don't own a transport. Would need at least a sizeable trailer and my truck. I do have some nice little girl sized speakers with titanium tweeters though.
planet10 said:I was hoping to hear that with some of the little tube amps subbed in....
I recommend against that. It is very much a farfield system. 100 feet and 1000 watts is recommended.
Tweeters
i don't have any spec for those. i was thinking as long as i get the right sizing for the cabinets/drivers, wouldn't adding the tweeters just be a bonus or is there more to it than that.
Or should I just get some dimensions and build the buggers.
See what they sound like, then play around with the tweeters, i could always leave one side just screwed, so as to make adjustments.
Brett
i don't have any spec for those. i was thinking as long as i get the right sizing for the cabinets/drivers, wouldn't adding the tweeters just be a bonus or is there more to it than that.
Or should I just get some dimensions and build the buggers.
See what they sound like, then play around with the tweeters, i could always leave one side just screwed, so as to make adjustments.
Brett
doorman said:The above posts indicate that the Vanisle DIY get together is not to be missed!
Don
yup, the insults get more interesting and anatomically improbable as the night wears on
Hi,
I'm looking for a design to build as a 2nd speaker after a pair of Needles. I was going to do a BIB pair, but there are no corners in the room where they'll live The Metronomes are very pretty - if they go down to just below 50Hz like the Needles, they're probably the top candidate.
I think I want to try Fostex drivers - I can't forget how cellos, guitars and live Squarepusher sounded on a simple pair of FE103 boxes.
So:
* Is it known how low the Nomes will go, in-room and with proper port arrangements, with FE126 drivers?
The graph seems to indicate 55ish Hz:
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/images/MetronomeFamFR.gif
* Could things like port tuning help them go a bit lower?
* Are the FE126'es OK w.r.t. Xmax when playing low notes in a cabinet of this type?
I'm looking for a design to build as a 2nd speaker after a pair of Needles. I was going to do a BIB pair, but there are no corners in the room where they'll live The Metronomes are very pretty - if they go down to just below 50Hz like the Needles, they're probably the top candidate.
I think I want to try Fostex drivers - I can't forget how cellos, guitars and live Squarepusher sounded on a simple pair of FE103 boxes.
So:
* Is it known how low the Nomes will go, in-room and with proper port arrangements, with FE126 drivers?
The graph seems to indicate 55ish Hz:
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/images/MetronomeFamFR.gif
* Could things like port tuning help them go a bit lower?
* Are the FE126'es OK w.r.t. Xmax when playing low notes in a cabinet of this type?
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