Re: tweeters
Don't discard those so easily. National alnico 2" cone tweeters. Aperiodically loaded to boot (they will need their own cabinet. 3.3uF used in series gives ~4k XO (assumming they are 8 ohms -- seems a bit low). Tweeked up with some phase plugs you could well find these embarrass some respected domes.
Puzzlecoat is a particular flavour of PVA that tends to remain more flexibla than thinned white glue. That is not to important with a woofer, with a full range you don't want to add to much, or stiffen so much as to kill the top end. (what & how you treat a woofer will be different than dealing with a FR)
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/design/tweeks.html
I've not used it, but some recommend Polyacrylic -- the 2 drivers i've ended up done with this i was not impressed with.
John's suggesttion, i have no idea. I know you can get water based versions. I'd test it on something expendable 1st -- for a FR it might stiffen things too much.
dave
enzedone said:
Don't discard those so easily. National alnico 2" cone tweeters. Aperiodically loaded to boot (they will need their own cabinet. 3.3uF used in series gives ~4k XO (assumming they are 8 ohms -- seems a bit low). Tweeked up with some phase plugs you could well find these embarrass some respected domes.
Puzzlecoat is a particular flavour of PVA that tends to remain more flexibla than thinned white glue. That is not to important with a woofer, with a full range you don't want to add to much, or stiffen so much as to kill the top end. (what & how you treat a woofer will be different than dealing with a FR)
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/design/tweeks.html
I've not used it, but some recommend Polyacrylic -- the 2 drivers i've ended up done with this i was not impressed with.
John's suggesttion, i have no idea. I know you can get water based versions. I'd test it on something expendable 1st -- for a FR it might stiffen things too much.
dave
Re: Re: tweeters
It worked for me really well. Cone was in good shape to begin with , but seemed too soft, like pages in an old paperback. The bass it produced was blurry, not well defined. After treatment, much better - smooth, clear bass and cleaner midrange.
The Varathane brought it to life.
Tested a couple Hz lower for Fs after (due to mass load).
planet10 said:
It worked for me really well. Cone was in good shape to begin with , but seemed too soft, like pages in an old paperback. The bass it produced was blurry, not well defined. After treatment, much better - smooth, clear bass and cleaner midrange.
The Varathane brought it to life.
Tested a couple Hz lower for Fs after (due to mass load).
Re: Correction on the tweters
Are the Ts 4 or 8 ohms? If 4 ohms nominal XO would be ~ 7k, if 8 twice that (which would mean they were being used where they are at their best)
You'll find that they will work best if used singly... 1 likely won't keep up with the RA so you might well need to stash them for another project
Typically these have 1/2" VC -- i used a tapered foam earplug and cut it down till it fit. The hard part is getting a perpendicular cut. You need to attach 2 pieces of metal to the bottom -- with only 1 (i started out with a washer) they want to flop over.
dave
enzedone said:The tweeters were actually in parallel..................
I was thinking about puting them into a plate like this.
Phase plugs in these.......wow they would have to be pretty small.
Are the Ts 4 or 8 ohms? If 4 ohms nominal XO would be ~ 7k, if 8 twice that (which would mean they were being used where they are at their best)
You'll find that they will work best if used singly... 1 likely won't keep up with the RA so you might well need to stash them for another project
Typically these have 1/2" VC -- i used a tapered foam earplug and cut it down till it fit. The hard part is getting a perpendicular cut. You need to attach 2 pieces of metal to the bottom -- with only 1 (i started out with a washer) they want to flop over.
dave
Cabinets
Dave,
I saw your site with the measurements for the Mets. you have one that fits the nirvana 10", it's about 1854 high if I'm right.
I wounder if i could just use the same cabinet for my RA's
By the way I have no idea how you manage to get to answer so many different threads............Do you sleep?......
Nice going............
Brett.
Dave,
I saw your site with the measurements for the Mets. you have one that fits the nirvana 10", it's about 1854 high if I'm right.
I wounder if i could just use the same cabinet for my RA's
By the way I have no idea how you manage to get to answer so many different threads............Do you sleep?......
Nice going............
Brett.
Re: Cabinets
It would really be nice to see some T/S parameters before trying to answer that one. ML-TLs & ML-Vs have proven to be pretty tolerant of differing T/S paramaters thou.
not enuff...
dave
enzedone said:
It would really be nice to see some T/S parameters before trying to answer that one. ML-TLs & ML-Vs have proven to be pretty tolerant of differing T/S paramaters thou.
By the way I have no idea how you manage to get to answer so many different threads............Do you sleep?......
not enuff...
dave
chrisb said:
What's that? Could you please type in caps so I can hear you?
Sorry Chris, can't bring it. I don't own a transport. Would need at least a sizeable trailer and my truck. I do have some nice little girl sized speakers with titanium tweeters though.
planet10 said:
I recommend against that. It is very much a farfield system. 100 feet and 1000 watts is recommended.
Tweeters
i don't have any spec for those. i was thinking as long as i get the right sizing for the cabinets/drivers, wouldn't adding the tweeters just be a bonus or is there more to it than that.
Or should I just get some dimensions and build the buggers.
See what they sound like, then play around with the tweeters, i could always leave one side just screwed, so as to make adjustments.
Brett
i don't have any spec for those. i was thinking as long as i get the right sizing for the cabinets/drivers, wouldn't adding the tweeters just be a bonus or is there more to it than that.
Or should I just get some dimensions and build the buggers.
See what they sound like, then play around with the tweeters, i could always leave one side just screwed, so as to make adjustments.
Brett
Hi,
I'm looking for a design to build as a 2nd speaker after a pair of Needles. I was going to do a BIB pair, but there are no corners in the room where they'll live The Metronomes are very pretty - if they go down to just below 50Hz like the Needles, they're probably the top candidate.
I think I want to try Fostex drivers - I can't forget how cellos, guitars and live Squarepusher sounded on a simple pair of FE103 boxes.
So:
* Is it known how low the Nomes will go, in-room and with proper port arrangements, with FE126 drivers?
The graph seems to indicate 55ish Hz:
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/images/MetronomeFamFR.gif
* Could things like port tuning help them go a bit lower?
* Are the FE126'es OK w.r.t. Xmax when playing low notes in a cabinet of this type?
I'm looking for a design to build as a 2nd speaker after a pair of Needles. I was going to do a BIB pair, but there are no corners in the room where they'll live
The Metronomes are very pretty - if they go down to just below 50Hz like the Needles, they're probably the top candidate.I think I want to try Fostex drivers - I can't forget how cellos, guitars and live Squarepusher sounded on a simple pair of FE103 boxes.
So:
* Is it known how low the Nomes will go, in-room and with proper port arrangements, with FE126 drivers?
The graph seems to indicate 55ish Hz:
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/images/MetronomeFamFR.gif
* Could things like port tuning help them go a bit lower?
* Are the FE126'es OK w.r.t. Xmax when playing low notes in a cabinet of this type?
