For your needs I suggest you buy this - Rigol DS1102E Digital Oscilloscope 100MHz | TEquipment.NET
It's a decent scope, I have one. I would prefer one with 4 channels and 2 math functions, the notion being that one can then compare PS performance with amplifier output. But, there is an added cost.
A bunch of guys on my F5T thread are strongly suggesting I use an analog scope to track down some low level noise issues. Measuring low levels is a problem with digital scopes and low bit depth.
A bunch of guys on my F5T thread are strongly suggesting I use an analog scope to track down some low level noise issues. Measuring low levels is a problem with digital scopes and low bit depth.
oooops, the iPad thingy, I agree on the Rigol
"Some" of my test gear is here http://www.soundhifi.com/test.html I need to update this !
Dave
"Some" of my test gear is here http://www.soundhifi.com/test.html I need to update this !
Dave
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Thanks all for the comments and thanks 6L6 for the suggestion and link.
The time you guys contribute is really appreciated.
Just ordered the Rigol, should be here Christmas Eve, another present for myself!
I recieved the piece of iron for the bearing drain, high graphite cast iron. Ordered from speedy metals. It measures 6 3/6" x 4 3/8" x 1 1/4"
It weights at about 10 lbs.
I ordered a piece of 3/8" -24 brass threaded rod from McMaster-Carr, but the box that arrived was empty, fell out during shipment I guess. Second try arrives Tuesday.
The time you guys contribute is really appreciated.
Just ordered the Rigol, should be here Christmas Eve, another present for myself!
I recieved the piece of iron for the bearing drain, high graphite cast iron. Ordered from speedy metals. It measures 6 3/6" x 4 3/8" x 1 1/4"
It weights at about 10 lbs.
I ordered a piece of 3/8" -24 brass threaded rod from McMaster-Carr, but the box that arrived was empty, fell out during shipment I guess. Second try arrives Tuesday.
Getting closer to the day I start to upgrade this TT. So I pulled the covers off to see what shape everything is in. Someone has been in here before.
Concern has been mentioned about the umbilical cord when out boarding the electronics. There are 12 wires, as seen in the pic. They are all run together with no shielding between. Is the concern about the umbilical interference with other pieces of audio gear?
Concern has been mentioned about the umbilical cord when out boarding the electronics. There are 12 wires, as seen in the pic. They are all run together with no shielding between. Is the concern about the umbilical interference with other pieces of audio gear?
Ahhh, I read every Hi-Fi World and have seen this article Dave. They (Hi-Fi World) have done a lot for Technics TT sales!
Dave, thanks for the reply. What guage wire should I order and is the strand count important? My plan is to shield the various voltage pairs from each other, and then shield the entire umbilical before covering with the braided sleeve. Good plan?
The panzerholz arrived yesterday
Just order a new chassis for the electronics from Landfall Systems. This is my fourth chassis from David. Great guy and product!
The panzerholz arrived yesterday
Just order a new chassis for the electronics from Landfall Systems. This is my fourth chassis from David. Great guy and product!
A very good question !
The thinner and the more strands make a cable more flexible, and this is what you want.
I suggest you should bundle in a) all PSU, b) 50Khz feed c) position sensors d) tacho. BUT there may be other ways like using a 50 way screened IDC cable and quadrupling each motor drive and interleaving everything with a ground wire ? (apart from the 16 motor drive, they can be all one continuous block) 3M 3517/50OR from Mouser ? Or maybe Amphenol Spectra-Strip 159-2801-050, or 3M 3659-50 Ribbon Cable, Round/Flat, 50way ??
There might be other ways, any ideas chaps ? We really need a cable expert, and that isn't me..................
The three phase motor cables need to be 3-5A, although they only take under an amp when starting and less than 100mA running, you don't want any voltage drop here. The same for 31V and +5V. All the rest can be quite thin. All the 50KHz signal will get attenuated, I suggest you do a before and after measurement against the service manual.
Remember, this is arguable the best turntable in the world, and in its time is was almost the most expensive. You don't want to degrade its performance in any way. Partner it with a SME V and Miyajima Shilabe Blackwood Stereo or even a Clearaudio Goldfinger, not at all out of the question and a shameless plug !!
Regards
Dave
Oops, of course there is no need for the PSU wires !!
So we can use a 36 way like :
http://www.soundhifi.com/FOURUMIMAGES/SP10%20ribbon.pdf
So we can use a 36 way like :
http://www.soundhifi.com/FOURUMIMAGES/SP10%20ribbon.pdf
In my Denon DP-80 build that has a 1.5 meters umbilical i used 3 runs of shielded cable (each 4 way) and a separate ground.
The original cables were 24 AWG and used 22 AWG and a 20 AWG ground.
All bundled in tex-flex.
Terminated with TE/Connectivity plug and receptacle from Mouser.
Hard thermoplastic material and gold plated contacts...not cheap!
You need to buy the special tool for inserting/removing the pins.
I used the 16 contacts combo that can accommodate up to 20 AWG wire.
There are others with more contacts but the pins get thinner and will work only with thinner cable...24 AWG probably.
Worked like a dream.
The original cables were 24 AWG and used 22 AWG and a 20 AWG ground.
All bundled in tex-flex.
Terminated with TE/Connectivity plug and receptacle from Mouser.
Hard thermoplastic material and gold plated contacts...not cheap!
You need to buy the special tool for inserting/removing the pins.
I used the 16 contacts combo that can accommodate up to 20 AWG wire.
There are others with more contacts but the pins get thinner and will work only with thinner cable...24 AWG probably.
Worked like a dream.
Attachments
Ιt has a 20KHZ oscillator against whom it measures the 555.5Hz signal provided from the magnetic head that reads the imprint under the platter.
I had no problems with every other wire.
Only the head signal became too weak and i had to boost it to make it lock.
Only for testing as the owner didn't want a full blown outboard control/PSU box.
In the next one everything (even the buttons) will be moved to a separate box.
Much simpler too...3 wires for motor,2 for neon lamp,4 for magnetic head,2 for powering the signal booster.
I had no problems with every other wire.
Only the head signal became too weak and i had to boost it to make it lock.
Only for testing as the owner didn't want a full blown outboard control/PSU box.
In the next one everything (even the buttons) will be moved to a separate box.
Much simpler too...3 wires for motor,2 for neon lamp,4 for magnetic head,2 for powering the signal booster.