As I say Jim, only if it comes to using some newly available materials which were very expensive 30years ago. IMO. These thing was not cheap that days, but people were still looking for compromises while designing it... Now, maybe, you could work in those a bit.
However, correct me if I am wrong.... Most of these mods looks to me as not always necessary improvements to get some money from audiophiles.
However, correct me if I am wrong.... Most of these mods looks to me as not always necessary improvements to get some money from audiophiles.
MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone!!!
Thanks Dave for taking the time to answer and putting together the wire chart.
Thanks soundofvoid for the recommendation for the TE plugs and recepts.
I didn't realize how many types of plugs and parts of plugs are out there! Taking some time to read and study.
The oscilloscope arrived today, opened it up and calibrated the test leads. My first time ever even seeing an oscilloscope, now to learn how to use it to check out the SP10.
I also picked up a VPI 16.5 record cleaner today. FYI, I never owned a piece of audio gear until I started building my own beginning about 3 years ago. So everything is from scratch, including my electronics education!
Dave, since I don't have any actual experience myself, and have to rely on other people I respect, I understand that these SP10's can be special. Several people have set up a commercial enterprise to help develope the potential of these tables, as you know. So I'm looking forward to using the resources that are available to me, and to learn from those before me, and see what I can end up with. As far as an arm is concerned, I have already made a deal on a SME 312s. Cartridge? I have access to try out most popular carts when I get done, we will see what I like and can afford when that time comes.
As far as original engineering and new materials and upgrades are concerned, my HIFI friend and I have done just a simple test. He has an SP10 mk3 in a solid block of aluminum, shaped by CNC, and filled inside with Panzerholz, bearing drain, stock chassis discarded, +200 lbs, etc. On my stock sp10, with the needle sitting on the record, platter not spinning, audio equipment on, you can slightly tap anywhere on my quick made mule plinth, and the stock aluminum chassis, and to varying degrees hear the tap through the system. On my HIFI friends, you might hear something if you hit the chassis with a hammer (didn't try though!). But strange to think that all these years later modern technology and current commercial manufacturing doesn't overshadow these tables motor and control.
Thanks Dave for taking the time to answer and putting together the wire chart.
Thanks soundofvoid for the recommendation for the TE plugs and recepts.
I didn't realize how many types of plugs and parts of plugs are out there! Taking some time to read and study.
The oscilloscope arrived today, opened it up and calibrated the test leads. My first time ever even seeing an oscilloscope, now to learn how to use it to check out the SP10.
I also picked up a VPI 16.5 record cleaner today. FYI, I never owned a piece of audio gear until I started building my own beginning about 3 years ago. So everything is from scratch, including my electronics education!
Dave, since I don't have any actual experience myself, and have to rely on other people I respect, I understand that these SP10's can be special. Several people have set up a commercial enterprise to help develope the potential of these tables, as you know. So I'm looking forward to using the resources that are available to me, and to learn from those before me, and see what I can end up with. As far as an arm is concerned, I have already made a deal on a SME 312s. Cartridge? I have access to try out most popular carts when I get done, we will see what I like and can afford when that time comes.
As far as original engineering and new materials and upgrades are concerned, my HIFI friend and I have done just a simple test. He has an SP10 mk3 in a solid block of aluminum, shaped by CNC, and filled inside with Panzerholz, bearing drain, stock chassis discarded, +200 lbs, etc. On my stock sp10, with the needle sitting on the record, platter not spinning, audio equipment on, you can slightly tap anywhere on my quick made mule plinth, and the stock aluminum chassis, and to varying degrees hear the tap through the system. On my HIFI friends, you might hear something if you hit the chassis with a hammer (didn't try though!). But strange to think that all these years later modern technology and current commercial manufacturing doesn't overshadow these tables motor and control.
Finally got my TT. Have a couple of questions for you guys if you don't mind:
1) I have only one out of three screw to mount the platter to the rotor. Can you find them somewhere? Do you actually need them?
2) can I use a sl-1200 start/stop metal switch cap? Mine is scratched pretty bad...
3) Looks like my PSU was recent recapped. Is 6800uf enough in the SH-10 psu? Will I benefit from increasing it to let's say 10kuf? Do you need to bypass it with a film?
I was thinking to put something like AL line filter?
4) How stable the strobe should look? It is more stable than on a TT I had before, but it still has some tiny little oscillations. Maybe it is because of the stripes are not ideal?
Still thinking if I should fill the chassis underneath with a resin and cat litter mix to make it even less resonant...
1) I have only one out of three screw to mount the platter to the rotor. Can you find them somewhere? Do you actually need them?
2) can I use a sl-1200 start/stop metal switch cap? Mine is scratched pretty bad...
3) Looks like my PSU was recent recapped. Is 6800uf enough in the SH-10 psu? Will I benefit from increasing it to let's say 10kuf? Do you need to bypass it with a film?
I was thinking to put something like AL line filter?
4) How stable the strobe should look? It is more stable than on a TT I had before, but it still has some tiny little oscillations. Maybe it is because of the stripes are not ideal?
Still thinking if I should fill the chassis underneath with a resin and cat litter mix to make it even less resonant...
So after opening presents, a big turkey brunch, nap, watching The Interview on Google Play, afternoon drinks and snacks at the beach, I had a little time to try and figure out how to hook up and use the new oscilloscope on the TT.
(Not me in photo)
I started with the voltage on the power supply. The 32v supply was 32.79 and the 5v supply was 5.08. Both were easily adjusted to proper voltage.
I hooked up the scope as directed, nice set of pins on the boards to attach to
So as usual, I didn't have a clue to what I was to do next. As I mentioned earlier I have never seen an oscilloscope before and not sure what I was actually supposed to measure with it. So for about a half hour or so with the scope on and connected and the table spinning, I kept pushing buttons and twisting knobs. I had the pair of images on the screen that looked like the reference in the SP-10 manual. But I couldn't seem to find any readings that looked what I should be seeing, at least close to. So I gave up to think about it for a while. I only have the manual on my iPad, and as I was studying I zoomed in and saw that I'm supposed to measure the distance between the two points, was not obvious to me before zooming in.
So after turning a few more knobs and pushing buttons I figured out how to move the measuring markers (don't know right work) to hit the points in the service manual. The screen even does the math to give the reading.
So if I have done this correctly this is what I had/have.
On 33rpm I had 7.84, should be 6.3 (+/- .2), adjusted to 6.32
On 45rpm I had 6.80, should be 4.7 (+/- 1.3), after adjusting for 33 it came down to 5.44
On 78rpm I had 2.64, should be 2.7 (+/- .1), so I didn't adjust it.
So to the experts, did I do this right?
(Not me in photo)
I started with the voltage on the power supply. The 32v supply was 32.79 and the 5v supply was 5.08. Both were easily adjusted to proper voltage.
I hooked up the scope as directed, nice set of pins on the boards to attach to
So as usual, I didn't have a clue to what I was to do next. As I mentioned earlier I have never seen an oscilloscope before and not sure what I was actually supposed to measure with it. So for about a half hour or so with the scope on and connected and the table spinning, I kept pushing buttons and twisting knobs. I had the pair of images on the screen that looked like the reference in the SP-10 manual. But I couldn't seem to find any readings that looked what I should be seeing, at least close to. So I gave up to think about it for a while. I only have the manual on my iPad, and as I was studying I zoomed in and saw that I'm supposed to measure the distance between the two points, was not obvious to me before zooming in.
So after turning a few more knobs and pushing buttons I figured out how to move the measuring markers (don't know right work) to hit the points in the service manual. The screen even does the math to give the reading.
So if I have done this correctly this is what I had/have.
On 33rpm I had 7.84, should be 6.3 (+/- .2), adjusted to 6.32
On 45rpm I had 6.80, should be 4.7 (+/- 1.3), after adjusting for 33 it came down to 5.44
On 78rpm I had 2.64, should be 2.7 (+/- .1), so I didn't adjust it.
So to the experts, did I do this right?
Well, I'm a 60-70-80's rock man and prefer 9" tonearms and especially the SME V, but the 312S is very special and comes as standard with MCS150. My suggestion for cartridges are :
Denon DL-103 to test it, everyone needs a 103 as a spare in their draw anyway
Low budget AT33
Medium budget, Transfiguration Axia
Proper buy, Miyajima Kansui Blackwood
Not out of the question, Clearaudio Goldfinger
I have tried them all and really like them all !
Dave
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That looks good, well done ! Have a look at the motor drive on A1, A2, A3 and post an image, lok for 5Hz'ish and about 2 volts Pk-Pk
Dave
Dave, thanks so much for the reply and confirming I learned something new and didn't mess up.
RE motor drive. Can you give me a little more info on how to connect and set up the scope? Thanks.
You have the service manual - step one complete. 
With the Rigol, honestly just attach to the points as suggested in the manual, start or stop the platter as instructed in the service manual, and merely hit the "Auto" button on your scope. (upper right corner). 9 times out of 10 that gets you so close to optimal it's scary.
Re: you're specific question, ground the probe at the chassis starground and place he probe tip at the places Dave suggests.
There are TONS of video on the Rigol, most aimed at the inexperienced user, just Google it. (and Rigol 1052E, same scope, slightly smaller bandwidth) Those videos will show how to turn on more or more specific counting functions, and some more general usage information.
With the Rigol, honestly just attach to the points as suggested in the manual, start or stop the platter as instructed in the service manual, and merely hit the "Auto" button on your scope. (upper right corner). 9 times out of 10 that gets you so close to optimal it's scary.
Re: you're specific question, ground the probe at the chassis starground and place he probe tip at the places Dave suggests.
There are TONS of video on the Rigol, most aimed at the inexperienced user, just Google it. (and Rigol 1052E, same scope, slightly smaller bandwidth) Those videos will show how to turn on more or more specific counting functions, and some more general usage information.
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Here is the video of the strobe. The middle "stripe" is oscillating up and down a bit. What do you think, everything is fine?
https://vimeo.com/115439636
https://vimeo.com/115439636
I am ready to put up an order for electrolytics. Couple of questions:
1. Can anyone tried to replace SH-10E PSU pilot light with a LED? The light is dead in my unit :-(.
2. About electrolytics, should I stick with original capacitance or increase it a bit where possible?
Another thing, what is that X1 on the schematics, should it be replaced?
That's how it looks:
Does this look like original layout or some aftermarket mod?
These go to photo diode LN22.
Thanks!
1. Can anyone tried to replace SH-10E PSU pilot light with a LED? The light is dead in my unit :-(.
2. About electrolytics, should I stick with original capacitance or increase it a bit where possible?
Another thing, what is that X1 on the schematics, should it be replaced?
That's how it looks:
Does this look like original layout or some aftermarket mod?
These go to photo diode LN22.
Thanks!
Dave thanks.
Here are some screen shots, in order, A, B, C
Is this what you asked for? Looks a little off, or is this in the ballpark?
Now that I have a baseline and know how to readjust later, time to swap caps.
Thanks for reminding me about online video's! Yes some good tutorials available.You have the service manual - step one complete.
With the Rigol, honestly just attach to the points as suggested in the manual, start or stop the platter as instructed in the service manual, and merely hit the "Auto" button on your scope. (upper right corner). 9 times out of 10 that gets you so close to optimal it's scary.
Re: you're specific question, ground the probe at the chassis starground and place he probe tip at the places Dave suggests.
There are TONS of video on the Rigol, most aimed at the inexperienced user, just Google it. (and Rigol 1052E, same scope, slightly smaller bandwidth) Those videos will show how to turn on more or more specific counting functions, and some more general usage information.
And thanks again for the recommendation on the scope. Looks like everything I need.
