As discussed a while back, the 12AX7 is pretty much a non contender here. If you use nearly $20 of your budget on the tubes you only have $80 left for the important stuff. The 5C1 Champ has two stages, the 5F1 Champ has 3 stages. Look up the important criteria for each tube, then print out the $1 and $2 tube lists from ESRC and VacuumTubes.net. Find some near matches, wire them up and tweak until you get the sound you want.
Yes, if you want an exact copy of a Fender Champ you need to buy Fender transformers and use the exact tubes and speaker. Even the wood used to make the cabinet will affect the tone. It will not cost under $100. If you like the sound of a Champ, but don't care to be exact use some cheap tubes that do the same job. A 5V6 can be had for far less than a 6V6, a 7C5 IS a 6V6GT with a loctal base. A 6AQ5 has the same characteristics as a 6V6 with slightly less power. The 6AU6 is close to the 6SJ7 used in the 5C1, and there are some TV tuner tubes that come close to the 12AX7. A 6AV6 IS half of a 12AX7 use two of them. There is a compactron that has 3/2 of a 12AX7 but I don't remember the number. If you wan't a "Champ" for under $100 you must get a bit creative. That is what this thread is all about.
When you build your speaker box, MDF sounds "dead" cheap pine from Home depot has more life.
Yes, if you want an exact copy of a Fender Champ you need to buy Fender transformers and use the exact tubes and speaker. Even the wood used to make the cabinet will affect the tone. It will not cost under $100. If you like the sound of a Champ, but don't care to be exact use some cheap tubes that do the same job. A 5V6 can be had for far less than a 6V6, a 7C5 IS a 6V6GT with a loctal base. A 6AQ5 has the same characteristics as a 6V6 with slightly less power. The 6AU6 is close to the 6SJ7 used in the 5C1, and there are some TV tuner tubes that come close to the 12AX7. A 6AV6 IS half of a 12AX7 use two of them. There is a compactron that has 3/2 of a 12AX7 but I don't remember the number. If you wan't a "Champ" for under $100 you must get a bit creative. That is what this thread is all about.
When you build your speaker box, MDF sounds "dead" cheap pine from Home depot has more life.
Another Resource Post
For the guys & gals across the big pond,
Amp Maker: Guitar amp kits and parts
Gary has been active you many years on several of the most popular guitar gear & amp websites.
There are indeed good supply alternatives listed on his site some are at excellent prices.
For the guys & gals across the big pond,
Amp Maker: Guitar amp kits and parts
Gary has been active you many years on several of the most popular guitar gear & amp websites.
There are indeed good supply alternatives listed on his site some are at excellent prices.
Actually those of us who can buy directly from the US importer can buy a 12AX7 pay $7.31 for one or $60.20 for ten!
So to be fair I suspect we should establish standard prices for common parts. For example I always buy my resistors in 100 or 200 packs. The metal film 1% types 1/4W cost me $.02 ea. A 1/2 watt carbon composition resistor $.13. A .047 uf 400 V film capacitor costs me $.19.
Like I said, you can't buy a 12AX7 for $7, but I'll take ten 12AX7 tubes for $60.20. Thanks. I sent you a PM.
If these are Chinese made I'll pass, but thanks for the offer.
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That is what I pay. Yes they are the Sino-Chinese. Svet's 89.30/10 Sovtek 'LP 96.40/10 'LPS 98.9/10 'WA 76.50 'WB 107.90/10 Mullard 114.4/10
But for the $100 amp China may be fine. Of course I plan on using something else entirely!
Tubelab is it within the rules to use tubes on "special", I didn't think so.
I also don't think it is good to push tubes and transformers beyond their
ratings since a transformer wound with paper could be a fire hazard.
I'm trying to do a Princeton, without reverb or tremelo, (would that be a
blues junior?) and am at $54 for tubes and transformers.
All tubes have been substituted with low cost types. Or I might make it
similar to the tiny terror with a Princeton power amp.
I also don't think it is good to push tubes and transformers beyond their
ratings since a transformer wound with paper could be a fire hazard.
I'm trying to do a Princeton, without reverb or tremelo, (would that be a
blues junior?) and am at $54 for tubes and transformers.
All tubes have been substituted with low cost types. Or I might make it
similar to the tiny terror with a Princeton power amp.
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I'm using minimum order pricing for all components. If I ordered 100 resistors I could get them cheaper but I'm going on the assumption that someone may want to build an amp that does not plan on using the remaining 99 resistors just to get them cheaper. Same for tubes, one each, etc.
Price came in at almost $100 if I buy all the parts from AES except the power transformer from Allied.
Next I'll see what I could do by purchasing from several sources, and use the Chinese or Russian tubes.
I could probably leave out the lamp as well. It is a frill but does not add to the tone unless I use the more expensive purple lense.
Price came in at almost $100 if I buy all the parts from AES except the power transformer from Allied.
Next I'll see what I could do by purchasing from several sources, and use the Chinese or Russian tubes.
I could probably leave out the lamp as well. It is a frill but does not add to the tone unless I use the more expensive purple lense.
Attachments
I suppose that the suppliers are going to come out in the end, and we have to discuss which are or are not acceptable. I'd like to suggest Apex Jr who is a member here, panel lamp is $1.50 complete for example, pots are also at a good price. Perhaps we should make sure he has at least 100 pieces of an item or have a backup if we use him as a source:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/apex-jr/149094-home-thread-apex-jr.html
Switches for example:
http://www.apexjr.com/Switches.htm
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/apex-jr/149094-home-thread-apex-jr.html
Switches for example:
http://www.apexjr.com/Switches.htm
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You need a power cord and IEC connector if you are planning for it, or can we assume that everyone has a left over computer power cord? Could just cut off the IEC connector.
The dollar list has been a regular feature of ESRC's web site for almost 4 year. I have been dealing with Stan (the owner) for at least 15 years. He assures me that he has over 1000 of each of the tubes I have chosen for Amp #1 in stock. He now knows about the contest and these tubes will stay $1 and won't go away, unless some unscrupulous copycat decides to buy them ALL 5 minutes after the design is posted. THIS HAS HAPPENED BEFORE and can happen with anyones unique design here.
The same tubes are listed at $1 in the regular price list at Radio Electronic Supply (vacuumtubes.net). I did not check stock there though. They are all also in stock at AES for a slightly higher price (around $2).
I know better than to design something that may become a Tubelab product unless PLENTY of parts are available. I have ALL the parts for a SPUD amp sitting here waiting for some 9 pin compactron sockets that will fit in my PC board. The plastic junk that I got from AES melts, and the ceramic ones that I got as samples have been on back order from China for almost 2 years.
As I stated in a previous post, If you choose a tube from the dollar list at either place, call to verify ample stock before using it in your design. Petes Red Board took the 6GV5 off the dollar list at both suppliers. We cleaned out all the 6HJ5's too. What do you expect when you find a $1 tube that cranks out 75 watts per pair, or a $4 tube that makes 125 watts!
I have been known to crank tubes till they melt in many of my experiments. ALL parts in this guitar amp will be operated WAY below their specs. B+ is only 150 volts. I am speccing 250 volt caps. The output tubes will operate at half rated dissipation in Class A and near zero if class B works.
Mouser almost always beats AES on small stuff like caps and resistors, especially Xicon branded parts. There is no reason you can't quote the Mouser price if the SAME part is available from Mouser even if you bought it from AES.
Apex Jr. is a surplus dealer, so by definition his parts may be in short supply, or may be stocked by the 1000's. I arbritrarily chose the number 500 as my cutoff point for tubes and other unique parts. I have ordered some of my parts from other catalog surplus dealers. I also chose the number 500 for a minimum AND ordered 100 each of the unique parts.....just in case. ALL have alternate sources, albeit at higher prices. There will be zero single source parts in any of my designs. 38 years at Motorola have taught me how to Design For Manufacturability.
Thanks Pete, missed those although I got the fuse and holder.
I know I've seen the receptacles for $.95 and the local electronics shop has the cord for $1.35. The funny thing is that right next to it is a cord with flying leads for $1.95! Buy the IEC cable and cut it off!
I found a IEC receptacle with 5X20mm fuse holder for $1.85, that would actually reduce the overall cost compared to the current fuse holder plus a socket.
I'll check Allied for Resistors and Caps.
I know I've seen the receptacles for $.95 and the local electronics shop has the cord for $1.35. The funny thing is that right next to it is a cord with flying leads for $1.95! Buy the IEC cable and cut it off!
I found a IEC receptacle with 5X20mm fuse holder for $1.85, that would actually reduce the overall cost compared to the current fuse holder plus a socket.
I'll check Allied for Resistors and Caps.
It's safe to assume that everyone with at least one geek gene in their familly tree has several IEC power cords lying around. Real geeks have several dead PC power supplies to rob connectors from, and that is OK, but you need to provide a price from a supplier that has a bunch in stock. The best price I have as of now for a plain jane connector (no fuse or filter) is 85 cents in single quantity. 75 cents for PC board mounted ones.
There's a low cost chassis, they could be screwed together:
The Squirrel Monkey One Tube Guitar Amp
The Squirrel Monkey One Tube Guitar Amp
I built this 5F1 Champ for around 150$. "Chassis" not included. The leather handle was an "expensive" extra. The OPT is a Hammond 125CSE. BTW, the Hammond 125ESE sounds noticeably better in this amp. I reckon I could have saved 50$ using cheaper parts if I wanted to.
