johninCR said:
Very much so. As a catalyst to do the mods, and for providing his early research (ie just letting us know what was doable).
My mod leans heavily on the crumbs he left for us, the damar pattern a direct result of his work. Add to that a little development & serendipity, and that from experience, puzzlecoat is really good at reducing cone-talk (i now know C37 does the same thing, i don't yet know which is more effective -- i do know that C37 turns a Fostex cone to a lovely parchment color).
dave
One more coat of PZK and these are ready to go on to the next stage....
Attachments
Cool, I'll get 2 pairs of 126's along with that partial flatpack we talked about for the see-thru Frugels I want to build. Now I feel confident enough to use some natural varnish on my 127's.
In the meantime, I guess I need to mix up a 5 gallon bucket of some old school violin varnish that I'll call Super C-38, for which I'll even mix some hemp juice into the formula, and sell it in small quantities that total $100k. Do a few designer colors and use the slogan, "Better than C37 and even a little cheaper!"
In the meantime, I guess I need to mix up a 5 gallon bucket of some old school violin varnish that I'll call Super C-38, for which I'll even mix some hemp juice into the formula, and sell it in small quantities that total $100k. Do a few designer colors and use the slogan, "Better than C37 and even a little cheaper!"
Classic shellacs and lacquers were derived from either the sap of Rhus verniciflua, or the secretions of insect Laccifer lacca. As the latter case better suits my whim, I guess your C-38 would technically qualify as tropical "beetlejuice" not snake oil?
As for the hemp extract; dilute the warm tar from your pipe bowl with some absinthe, and you've got guaranteed sensory enhancement - whether it gets applied to the audio component, or directly to the listener. Unfortunately, that'll be a tricky one to ship transcontinentaly.
Obviously, I need more caffeine yet this morning, otherwise I'd read what I was typing
As for the hemp extract; dilute the warm tar from your pipe bowl with some absinthe, and you've got guaranteed sensory enhancement - whether it gets applied to the audio component, or directly to the listener. Unfortunately, that'll be a tricky one to ship transcontinentaly.
Obviously, I need more caffeine yet this morning, otherwise I'd read what I was typing
gexter said:
Wikipedia:
Shellac is a brittle or flaky secretion of the lac insect Coccus lacca, found in the forests of Assam and Thailand. Freed from wood it is called "seedlac." Once it was commonly believed that shellac was a resin obtained from the wings of an insect (order Hemiptera) found in India. In actuality, shellac was obtained from the secretion of the female insect, harvested from the bark of the trees where she deposits it to provide a sticky hold on the trunk. There is a risk that the harvesting process can scoop the insect up along with the secretion, leading to its death. The natural coloration of lac residue is greatly influenced by the sap consumed by the lac insect and the season of the harvest. Generally in the trade of seedlac there are two distinct colors; the orange Bysacki and the blonde Kushmi.
When purified, the chemical takes the form of yellow/ brown pellets, this possibly providing the basis for the "Wing Source Story." Shellac is a natural polymer and is chemically similar to synthetic polymers, thus it is considered a natural plastic. It can be molded by heat and pressure methods, so it is classified as thermoplastic.
Then there's the problem with bugs landing on the finished surfaces while they're curing.
chrisb said:
I have always used varathane or like synthetic.
How much longer does the shellac need to cure? I am talking about a natural shellac without drying/suring agents in it.
After multiple coats of pure tung oil I am looking for addditional shine without adding more tung oil.
The other question I just remembered to ask is: has anyone tried to add a super tweeter or tweeter and what was the verdict?
I am not sure of adding a too sharp directional sound to what is a comfortable and shrill high.
When I can get the frugels built (waiting on the flat paks), I've got a pair of dynaudio d-21's I'm itching to try with the fe 126's as a reversable mod, at the extreme high end, to see if it's worth it.
One thing that worries me about regular linseed oil for a cone treatment material is it continues to become progressively more brittle after it dries. It actually never dries, but continues to polymerize. If you wanted the kind of linseed oil that DID stay pliable indefinitely, the kind to use would be of the *stand oil* variety. Another material that dries quickly but remains pliable indefinitely (does not become brittle like raw linseed) would be the family of alkyd resins. (I believe I've given away my bad habit of being a college painting teacher)
Cheers,
Karl
One thing that worries me about regular linseed oil for a cone treatment material is it continues to become progressively more brittle after it dries. It actually never dries, but continues to polymerize. If you wanted the kind of linseed oil that DID stay pliable indefinitely, the kind to use would be of the *stand oil* variety. Another material that dries quickly but remains pliable indefinitely (does not become brittle like raw linseed) would be the family of alkyd resins. (I believe I've given away my bad habit of being a college painting teacher)
Cheers,
Karl
Gex - solvent based nitrocellulose lacquers* when sprayed in a booth with filtered airflow can dry to a finish safe to handle (but not stack!) in less than half an hour.
I've yet to have that kind of luck with any of the polyurethanes - which take at least overnight to dry, and are certainly not as easy to touch-up.
*ah, the joys of not living in Kalafor kneeyah
I've yet to have that kind of luck with any of the polyurethanes - which take at least overnight to dry, and are certainly not as easy to touch-up.
*ah, the joys of not living in Kalafor kneeyah
natural shellac..... linseed oil and dammar
shellac is normally being dissolvet in alcohol, dries hard and cracks easily
dammar is a harz, also normally dissolvet in alcohol (if I remember correctly)
linseed oil and alcohol dont mix well
If you use linseed oil in any way, please do use virgin oil, it dries much better
propolis in small amounts will soften shellac, and excellent for musical instruments
shellac is normally being dissolvet in alcohol, dries hard and cracks easily
dammar is a harz, also normally dissolvet in alcohol (if I remember correctly)
linseed oil and alcohol dont mix well
If you use linseed oil in any way, please do use virgin oil, it dries much better
propolis in small amounts will soften shellac, and excellent for musical instruments
tinitus said:
??? By virgin do you mean raw ? I've only been able to find raw linseed oil here, and the problem with it is it never dries and will turn rancid. I've hestitated to try cooking it, but I found one entry online that superglue helps it dry. I've done that and yes it does work. Just add a little superglue to the linseed oil. It doesn't appear to mix completely. Is heating up that mixture somewhat to obtain a complete blend a very bad idea?
Theres mineral turpentine - and there is turpentine oil
the virgin linseed oil I refer to is coldpressed
btw....I think it can dangerous to cook the linseed oil
In the old days they made "stand-oil" - I think it was made of linseed oil and water and sand mixed in bottle, which was left in a sunny window - shake the bottle
the virgin linseed oil I refer to is coldpressed
btw....I think it can dangerous to cook the linseed oil
In the old days they made "stand-oil" - I think it was made of linseed oil and water and sand mixed in bottle, which was left in a sunny window - shake the bottle
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