Had my first sound check tonight looooking good or should i say sounding good, cant wait to finish gluing it up and testing again out in the open.
i am keeping my work log up if anyone has any comments og right or wrongs please let me know
my work log
Next up paint and finish.
we also have a wagon for the minibar decided to keep the boominator in the lower half instead of the upper half so it works as a bar
Thanks everyone for posting and contritubing
i am keeping my work log up if anyone has any comments og right or wrongs please let me know
my work log
Next up paint and finish.
we also have a wagon for the minibar decided to keep the boominator in the lower half instead of the upper half so it works as a bar
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks everyone for posting and contritubing
That's the really nice thing about using polyurethane glue, it expands as it cures so you're pretty much guaranteed to have a leak free cabinet, which is what I would use to seal it now, you can also use putty as Doctormord suggests but in either case use masking tape to avoid having to clean up for hours.
Thanks guys will try that getting close to the end.
getting close to the end.An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hey everyone.
This is my first post. I've have been reading this beast of a thread the past few weeks. I am going to be building a standard Boominator. I'm really impressed by the level of support given by Saturnus and everyone in here. That said, I have a few questions:
1) aterran - Do you have any more of the wood kits?
2a) For woofers/tweeters - I am in the U.S., so I think my best bet is to order the PAudio HP10s and PHT407s from Loud Speakers Plus. Does this sound right? Has anyone placed an order successfully from LSP recently?
2b) That link lists the tweeters as PHT407T, whereas in this thread I see them listed as PHT407N. Are these different parts or is this perhaps a typo?
3) Given that I am in the U.S., is there a recommendation for which amp to use? All of the recommendations I've seen have been Europe-based
Thanks!
This is my first post. I've have been reading this beast of a thread the past few weeks. I am going to be building a standard Boominator. I'm really impressed by the level of support given by Saturnus and everyone in here. That said, I have a few questions:
1) aterran - Do you have any more of the wood kits?
2a) For woofers/tweeters - I am in the U.S., so I think my best bet is to order the PAudio HP10s and PHT407s from Loud Speakers Plus. Does this sound right? Has anyone placed an order successfully from LSP recently?
2b) That link lists the tweeters as PHT407T, whereas in this thread I see them listed as PHT407N. Are these different parts or is this perhaps a typo?
3) Given that I am in the U.S., is there a recommendation for which amp to use? All of the recommendations I've seen have been Europe-based
Thanks!
Following up on my last post, I was able to resolve some of my initial questions.
Aterran is out of the pre-cut wood kits, so it looks like I will be building from scratch.
I ordered the HP10s and PHT407s from Loudspeakersplus and they should be arriving early next week.
I still need to pick an amp, preferably one that I can source easily here in the U.S. Are there any U.S. based ones out there, or do I need to use the maxamp or cAMP?
Thanks!
Aterran is out of the pre-cut wood kits, so it looks like I will be building from scratch.
I ordered the HP10s and PHT407s from Loudspeakersplus and they should be arriving early next week.
I still need to pick an amp, preferably one that I can source easily here in the U.S. Are there any U.S. based ones out there, or do I need to use the maxamp or cAMP?
Thanks!
I'm not sure if there are any domestically made US amps out there. Sure, there's a lot of chinese made amps sold by parts express etc but as far as I know, no US made ones. The maxamp is made in Europe and generally the one I have recommended. The product quality and service is impeccable. The cAMP is canadian designed, not sure if it's made in Europe or Canada but I think it's the latter, and is designed specifically for the Boominator so that would be the natural first choice of amp now as it combines many functions you'd generally need several devices to achieve with other amps.
I was wondering, how did you guys ensure perfect 90 degrees angles while gluing and drilling? I posed this question at my local hardware store but amazingly they didn't have any idea in this situation (since the plywood is relatively thin).
Or this is a case of: perfect doesn't exist and in this case aligning it by eye is good enough?
Or this is a case of: perfect doesn't exist and in this case aligning it by eye is good enough?
The cAMP is designed/prototyped here in Canada, and the first build of production boards was assembled in the EU (Lithuania specifically) at a fairly high end board assembly house.
This might not satisfy some people who insist on buying 'Murican, but you can rest assured that everyone who touched the board during its assembly earned a fair living wage.
Ha, I was thinking more along the lines of trying to avoid steep shipping fees & customs, but that is nice to know as well.
Looks like I'll be researching the cAMP and maxamp and then making a decision on which suits me more.
cAMP = bit more spendy than a Maxamp, but full of features:
- A good quality TPA3118 amplifier implementation, with a highpass filter and a "ground loop breaker" audio input in front of it.
- 5V charging output for cellphones/MP3 players, using a smart charging chip that allows seamless charging of both Android and Apple things.
- A MPPT solar battery charger that works with both lead acid and LiFePO4 lithium batteries. Charging can be done from a 19.5V or 24V laptop adaptor too if you want.
- Low battery protection that shuts everything off if the battery gets discharged too much, and connections for a bicolor LED that blinks out the battery charging status.
It replaces a lot of stuff, I like to think it's worth the price we're gonna be charging for it. Even compared to the price of the rest of the Boominator (wood, handles, hardware, speakers, batteries, solar panels, paint...) it's not too significant.
The cAMP will be sold exclusively by Canopy Sound operating out of Denmark - they funded the development of the card. I dunno what shipping costs/customs/duty/etc like from that part of the world, hopefully not too bad - if they end up being substantial, we might be able to arrange reselling in the US or something. We'll see...
- A good quality TPA3118 amplifier implementation, with a highpass filter and a "ground loop breaker" audio input in front of it.
- 5V charging output for cellphones/MP3 players, using a smart charging chip that allows seamless charging of both Android and Apple things.
- A MPPT solar battery charger that works with both lead acid and LiFePO4 lithium batteries. Charging can be done from a 19.5V or 24V laptop adaptor too if you want.
- Low battery protection that shuts everything off if the battery gets discharged too much, and connections for a bicolor LED that blinks out the battery charging status.
It replaces a lot of stuff, I like to think it's worth the price we're gonna be charging for it. Even compared to the price of the rest of the Boominator (wood, handles, hardware, speakers, batteries, solar panels, paint...) it's not too significant.
The cAMP will be sold exclusively by Canopy Sound operating out of Denmark - they funded the development of the card. I dunno what shipping costs/customs/duty/etc like from that part of the world, hopefully not too bad - if they end up being substantial, we might be able to arrange reselling in the US or something. We'll see...
Am I oversimplifying the wiring, or does this look right? My understanding here is that the cAMP does the filtering on board, as well as battery & charger regulation. Or do I need to add a low pass filter for the woofers? How about additional voltage regulation circuitry?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You'll need a passive crossover for the PHT-407N's if that's what you're using. I can't really suggest component values, but it may have been talked about earlier in this thread. Most people use piezos with series resistors. Don't remember those values offhand either... hopefully someone else can chime in with those.
Other than that, add an inline fuse (10A suggested) between the battery positive terminal and the cAMP.
Other than that, add an inline fuse (10A suggested) between the battery positive terminal and the cAMP.