Exceeded my high expectations.
This thread has set very high expectations around the Boominator's performance. Well, I got my NS6 Mini up and running today and all I can say is I am very pleasantly surprised at how good, and how loud, it plays. It has exceeded my expectations. It makes me wonder if the full size Boominator is overkill.
Key Lessons Learned
1) Spend the extra time to dado (or similar) the box. I only had limited time at my shop (not at my house) and did it quick and dirty. I kicked my self all through the build; it was clearly a false economy.
2) Speaker grills - I was not happy with the Parts Express grills and tore them off after mounting two speakers. I switched to pet screen - heavy screen door material that stands up to pets. I'm much happier with them.
3) Use a circle cutting jig. I made a fancy guide template to use a flush cut bit and it just wasn't worth the work. Using the circle jig directly was faster.
4) Dayton tweeters -they are an odd size in imperial. Next time I will cut a recess at 1 5/16 (33.33 mm) which is bigger than the outer diameter. Then I would cut the 1 1/4" hole that fits the minor diameter. This would leave a shelf for the tweeter to rest against for flush mount.
5) I tried to paint the speaker baffles before gluing. It would have worked out better with dados
6) Don't forget the poly fill! I remembered before gluing the second baffle so it was just inconvenient. (Note: this was NS6 Mini, not the Monacore Mini. Saturnus has not called for stuffing the new Mini.
Anyhow, my son seems to like it:
This thread has set very high expectations around the Boominator's performance. Well, I got my NS6 Mini up and running today and all I can say is I am very pleasantly surprised at how good, and how loud, it plays. It has exceeded my expectations. It makes me wonder if the full size Boominator is overkill.
Key Lessons Learned
1) Spend the extra time to dado (or similar) the box. I only had limited time at my shop (not at my house) and did it quick and dirty. I kicked my self all through the build; it was clearly a false economy.
2) Speaker grills - I was not happy with the Parts Express grills and tore them off after mounting two speakers. I switched to pet screen - heavy screen door material that stands up to pets. I'm much happier with them.
3) Use a circle cutting jig. I made a fancy guide template to use a flush cut bit and it just wasn't worth the work. Using the circle jig directly was faster.
4) Dayton tweeters -they are an odd size in imperial. Next time I will cut a recess at 1 5/16 (33.33 mm) which is bigger than the outer diameter. Then I would cut the 1 1/4" hole that fits the minor diameter. This would leave a shelf for the tweeter to rest against for flush mount.
5) I tried to paint the speaker baffles before gluing. It would have worked out better with dados
6) Don't forget the poly fill! I remembered before gluing the second baffle so it was just inconvenient. (Note: this was NS6 Mini, not the Monacore Mini. Saturnus has not called for stuffing the new Mini.
Anyhow, my son seems to like it:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It is indeed intentional. The drivers are held in place primary by the sealant you apply around the sealing gasket of the drivers after they are mounted and the chemical metal they are glue to the center brace with. Like on the full-size Boominator the screws are only needed to fix the driver in place while the sealant sets. And as with the woofers on the full-size Boominator, you should avoid the temptation you apply force.
Yes. It does not make any difference on the performance of the driver in any way in this case so there is no problem having it sealed up.
I used a acid free silicone. I believe this should be fine to use. Doesn't have that nasty smell normal silicone has, and therefore should not eat up your voice coil insulatin and speaker wires.
Metalfilm or even better carbon composition resistors should be used. Yours is a wirewound power resistor, which isnt recommended.
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It was actully those i ask for, but i dont think i got them
dont think Elextra Esbjerg got so many things
It was actully those i ask for, but i dont think i got them
If they'd just ordered the right ones right away then you could have them tomorrow. Now it'll probably take another day.
@WesleyK, Your Boominator is looking good, looking forward to more pics.
And I received the Filter set, thanks!
@Atteren, good work and thanks for sharing your tips. A higher res photo would be nice.
Someone recommended Tek 7 to seal around the speakers, ect.
Is there any harm using it to glue the rear of the drivers also?
Thanks Saturnus for getting back to me.
I still however, have a nagging doubt about the driver placement. (Mini V2)
Holding the driver in my hands, I cant help but feel it was originally designed to have the gasket fit through the hole as opposed to surface mounting directly behind it.
One reason is that the gasket is only 2mm wide.
Another is that the steel plate with the screw holes is so thin that without the sealant I would have trouble putting torque on the screws without bending the plate. (I understand that I would be using sealant in this case).
Obviously if its placement is there for your speaker tuning then so be it. (And I don't expect you to re run the maths for me..)
However if it doesn't strictly matter would it be ok for me to protrude the gasket through the baffle and just put a 4mm spacer behind the driver?
One advantage is cosmetic. It makes the drivers look (slightly) larger in relation to the enclosure.
One last thing,
I have read conflicting advice regarding stuffing on the forum. Mini V2, to stuff or not to?
Thanks for your patience.
Cheers!
And I received the Filter set, thanks!
@Atteren, good work and thanks for sharing your tips. A higher res photo would be nice.
Someone recommended Tek 7 to seal around the speakers, ect.
Is there any harm using it to glue the rear of the drivers also?
Thanks Saturnus for getting back to me.
I still however, have a nagging doubt about the driver placement. (Mini V2)
Holding the driver in my hands, I cant help but feel it was originally designed to have the gasket fit through the hole as opposed to surface mounting directly behind it.
One reason is that the gasket is only 2mm wide.
Another is that the steel plate with the screw holes is so thin that without the sealant I would have trouble putting torque on the screws without bending the plate. (I understand that I would be using sealant in this case).
Obviously if its placement is there for your speaker tuning then so be it. (And I don't expect you to re run the maths for me..)
However if it doesn't strictly matter would it be ok for me to protrude the gasket through the baffle and just put a 4mm spacer behind the driver?
One advantage is cosmetic. It makes the drivers look (slightly) larger in relation to the enclosure.
One last thing,
I have read conflicting advice regarding stuffing on the forum. Mini V2, to stuff or not to?
Thanks for your patience.
Cheers!
With the gasket in the hole, having the steel plate flush against the wood. Rock solid. I used screws, but in the Micro (magnet to magnet) it has nowhere to go. Only sealant would suffice, but you could use extra bolts and nuts. Screwing it in from the back isn't that great in my experience.
I don't have any clear pictures, it was for a different project: Click
I don't have any clear pictures, it was for a different project: Click
In think saturnus was clear rhat he forgot to mention the need to stuff. I stuffed.
As for better pictures, i tried but couldnot edit them...more and netter photos to follow -- once i hid canbinen boobos.
It matters. Please mount it the way it is intended.
If it help, it's also why the hole is deliberately too small at 96mm.
Please remember the front baffle has to be round over. All 12mm of it.
It linearizes the frequency response in the 3khz-3.5khz region. If you do not mount it correctly, it will have an audible dip in the frequency response due to diffraction.
Please also remember that it is the chemical metal between the driver and the center brace that holds the driver in place. The screw on the front is not needed, just the sealant but the screws help to hold it in place while it's being mounted.
Please also remember that it is the chemical metal between the driver and the center brace that holds the driver in place. The screw on the front is not needed, just the sealant but the screws help to hold it in place while it's being mounted.
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Thanks Saturnus.
Could you please clarify this bit for me:
Please remember the front baffle has to be round over. All 12mm of it.
Does that mean I should or shouldn't route the external side of the baffle hole?
I was expecting to at least route the outer 6mm ply at 45 degrees on the external side for at least cosmetic reasons.
Cheers
Could you please clarify this bit for me:
Please remember the front baffle has to be round over. All 12mm of it.
Does that mean I should or shouldn't route the external side of the baffle hole?
I was expecting to at least route the outer 6mm ply at 45 degrees on the external side for at least cosmetic reasons.
Cheers