Heh, it would be a different matter if things hadn't taken the opposite (and much less challenging for the individual) path. Maybe we would know more of this stuff by now. Instead we're just timidly beginning to question our blind faith in the common "materialist" medicine...hahaha, yes I went through some uber-smokey books that said that w/ some daily exercises you could overcome physiological eyes problem w/ your brain
But hey, this is indeed off-track.
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alright! so used for op-amp decoupling between V+ and V-, the orientation doesn't matter thenFor rail decoupling it makes it doesn't really mater which way round, but as ground or zero volts is our "low impedance" point that's where I would connect the outer to. I think you have read the bit where it says decoupling a signal point to B+ (or V+ if you prefer) in which case V+ is the low impedance point.
Which cap ? I would say the ones that fit the best physically. It's an unwritten rule of mine that any mods have to look like they were factory installed.
Typical caps I use are the Epcos and Wima's.... don't pay over the odds too
well, my unwritten rule is that it should sound the best, even if it looks grotesque w/ 3 huge white mundorf caps...when the PC case is closed, I couldn't care less
the caps on your link are not MKP(as burson advises), and the higher grade black Mundorf caps are not MKP either..they are "KP", not sure if that'd be OK to use as well?
Mundorf MCap
Mundorf MCap-ZN
It doesn't matter which way round electrically... and tbh I would be more concerned about any stray pickup into all those wires etc.
Interesting to see tan theta mentioned in the specs for the caps... it's more to do with electroylitics really... I suspect any small value foil or film will give similar results. I even built one (a meter to measure it)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/131339-me-my-tan-theta-meter-capacitor-tester.html
A bit more here,
http://www.bychoice.com/cap_design_consideration.pdf
Personally I would just use good quality commercial grade components for all that you are doing
Interesting to see tan theta mentioned in the specs for the caps... it's more to do with electroylitics really... I suspect any small value foil or film will give similar results. I even built one (a meter to measure it)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/131339-me-my-tan-theta-meter-capacitor-tester.html
A bit more here,
http://www.bychoice.com/cap_design_consideration.pdf
Personally I would just use good quality commercial grade components for all that you are doing
MKP and KP are German abbreviations, Ernst Roederstein (ERo and Roe) was the first to serial manufacture polypropylene foil caps.
MKP is metallized polypropylene foil, Metallisierter Kunststoff (= plastic) Polypropylen.
KP consists of separate layers of polypropylene foil and aluminum foil.
The chemically bonding of aluminum to plastic foil deteriorates the characteristics of foil caps, reasons should be rather obvious, making KP the superior of the two.
MKP is metallized polypropylene foil, Metallisierter Kunststoff (= plastic) Polypropylen.
KP consists of separate layers of polypropylene foil and aluminum foil.
The chemically bonding of aluminum to plastic foil deteriorates the characteristics of foil caps, reasons should be rather obvious, making KP the superior of the two.
oh ok, I understood M standed for "metallized"..but my german is a bit rusty ^^
but they're not even in the audio path, so that mundorf stuff might very well be major overkill? the whites ones are twice cheaper, and already sound great
also, they swap the RCA plugs of my soundcards: http://www.itemaudio.co.uk/prodigy_hd2.html
how is that better to add wires? "poor quality" soldering? now soldering quality matters?
but they're not even in the audio path, so that mundorf stuff might very well be major overkill? the whites ones are twice cheaper, and already sound great
also, they swap the RCA plugs of my soundcards: http://www.itemaudio.co.uk/prodigy_hd2.html
you can see photos here: http://www.audiophonics.fr/burson-audio-pci-soundboard-prodigy-hd2-modded-192khz24bit-p-5024.html
how is that better to add wires? "poor quality" soldering? now soldering quality matters?
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and that's the original card: http://www.audiotrak.co.kr/audiotrak/image2/prodigyhd2Big2.jpg
right, with 24/192 support...and no problem w/ jitter(this would cost another 100 EUR to get a low jitter S/PDIF interface)? and swappable op-amps? plus I traded this Burson for some discrete op-amps I got for free from Kingwa, so it cost me $10 of shipping costsAs I see it, the problem with that triple-Burson'ed soundcard is just one: cost. With that money I'd buy me a veeeery nice dedicated DAC. Actually, even with half the money. And it'd have a nice USB input.
it's cheaper in the US: http://www.partsconnexion.com/bur_prodigy.html
I forgot you built that design
and everyone has the right equipment/supplies to make it in his kitchen.
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Yup, all that. Who knows what happens with jitter before the digital signal reaches the internal soundcard, anyway.right, with 24/192 support...and no problem w/ jitter(this would cost another 100 EUR to get a low jitter S/PDIF interface)? and swappable op-amps? plus I traded this Burson for some discrete op-amps I got for free from Kingwa, so it cost me $10 of shipping costs
For instance, you have the HA INFO NG94. It has a BUF634-buffered headphone amp built in too. I like it... might buy one, for a change from my usual (highly appreciated) CS4398 sound.
the NG94 is 16/48 max...and I have many 24/96 recordings I wanna hear in their full glory(for instance all the Depeche Mode SACD in 5.1 24/96 a friend of mine ripped on a LynxTWO-C)
@Mooly: I have a pair of modded MDR-CD1000(same drivers and better SQ now that it's modded than the MDR-CD3000...prolly one of the best dynamic headphones money can buy, SS is just huuuuuuuuuge), and some KRK Rokit on a t-amp.
ok, I was told that WIMA caps have an energetic sound...I'll go for the mundorf...they sound laid back just the way I like it
PS: ok, Mundorf got back to me:
@Mooly: I have a pair of modded MDR-CD1000(same drivers and better SQ now that it's modded than the MDR-CD3000...prolly one of the best dynamic headphones money can buy, SS is just huuuuuuuuuge), and some KRK Rokit on a t-amp.
ok, I was told that WIMA caps have an energetic sound...I'll go for the mundorf...they sound laid back just the way I like it
PS: ok, Mundorf got back to me:
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I forgot you built that design
and everyone has the right equipment/supplies to make it in his kitchen.
I figured anyone who could build post #582 could pull it off. There are any number of valid reasons that daughtering those fairly exposed cards into a CD player would be problematic vs. say a discrete IC.
I would love to listen to all these modded players.
I would rather do discrete AD797 (with J-Fet input, simplified current mirror and integrator) for the same fraction of the price.
Not a chip AFAIK. The boilerplate on their website is painful to read.
There are some pretty bold DIY's on this site (whole DAC's and A/D's, power amps and pre-amps) and that's what it's all about.
Audio-GD claim they came up with the original design.
Problem is I don't find either side more trustable than the other.
Maybe a 3rd guy created the original OPA-Earth/Burson?