GM said:
Hiya.
Nope, just plain vanilla.
I have TB in the Big BIB and will be listening to it the next few days.
I want to plug the 3 in TB into the calculator to see how it dimensions in that program.
I'm going through all this because the specs of the Pioneer gave a BIB only about 3 ft high. That was okay for the glue up shelving I could get but the result was disappointing compared to the 'full size' BIB. I don't model. I just build 'em.
For Tangband owners/users, a nice slim but tall cabinet might be the answer.
I may take the BIB Jr. down and use it for an MLTL with my new (and breaking in) FE167e using the sides for the front and back.
Using the figures for the WS 871sc (which were all I could find) the
calculator still gives a folded height of about 30 in and 5 in wide.
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w3-871sc.htm
As I recall, when I got my TB's I did not get a sheet with them. They were boxed from PE but a cannot recall the fact sheet. I haven't worked with these for a long time.
calculator still gives a folded height of about 30 in and 5 in wide.
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w3-871sc.htm
As I recall, when I got my TB's I did not get a sheet with them. They were boxed from PE but a cannot recall the fact sheet. I haven't worked with these for a long time.
neofone BIB - Sounds good
Folks
Details of what I've been doing with the neofone wide-range driver in a BIB can be found
on my quickly lashed up website at Brian's Web
This is what they look like right now standing next to my KLS3's.
They're at a very basic stage, no finishing off done yet with one side still
held on with only screws.
Thoughts appreciated, especially any ideas on how to deal with the only problem
I'm having with this speaker, which is a kind of 'ringing' sound.
Cheers
Brian
Folks
Details of what I've been doing with the neofone wide-range driver in a BIB can be found
on my quickly lashed up website at Brian's Web
This is what they look like right now standing next to my KLS3's.
They're at a very basic stage, no finishing off done yet with one side still
held on with only screws.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thoughts appreciated, especially any ideas on how to deal with the only problem
I'm having with this speaker, which is a kind of 'ringing' sound.
Cheers
Brian
Well, if they were mine I'd add a removable straight tapered tophat to them since the terminus is so far from the ceiling and since they appear to be ~up against the wall, I'd run them all the up to an enclosed top plate and experiment with different area triangular notches on the sides to load it along the wall/ceiling juncture before fiddling with stuffing beyond having a wad of it in the point and some minor damping around the driver and on the front part of the floor bend to quell any standing waves modulating the driver.
GM
GM
Hi, I wish I had pictures for you, but OH MY GOODNESS these things have NO RIGHT to sound so good!
I just switched sources, to nothing fancier than a better resolving laptop audio output. Inexplicably, Billy Bragg is sitting playing guitar in my living room. He says hi.
Edit - for the latecomers, I'm using Omnes BB 3.01 drivers in unfolded floor-loaded BIBs, driven by a 41Hz Amp6-BASIC and a SMPS. Telephone cable or lamp cord or whatever piece of something speaker wire.
I just switched sources, to nothing fancier than a better resolving laptop audio output. Inexplicably, Billy Bragg is sitting playing guitar in my living room. He says hi.
Edit - for the latecomers, I'm using Omnes BB 3.01 drivers in unfolded floor-loaded BIBs, driven by a 41Hz Amp6-BASIC and a SMPS. Telephone cable or lamp cord or whatever piece of something speaker wire.
kristleifur said:
I sort of recall this: very tall and very thin right?
Get those pix crankin'
Today I am modifying one of my BIBs-- the BIB Jr. 30 in one.
I removed the piece of foam behind the driver and changed out a
piece of egg crate which was trimmed to expose the voids and just have 'eggs' deflecting and absorbing at the bottom.
I used GM's new advice on putting a piece of fiber fill (which I've used in other BIBs) to only half the depth at the bottom from front to the slant.
Also new driver in this one: I pulled out a modified Pioneer cheapie that had the caulk on the frame and replaced with a poorly Mod Podged one of the same type. I want to see if the Mod Podge at full strength which leaves a brush pattern makes the unit unusable.
Mod Podge is used for brush stroke and stipple effects on crafts.
Used correctly I'm told here that the cut to water should be 50 percent.
I'm still trying to get the short BIB to perform to the maximum.
Admittedly I'm using a poor amp out of necessity: an old Radio Shack SA155.
I'm crossing my fingers for Sonic Impacts to go on deal.
planet10 said:
That experiment is still cooking on the backburner for now.
While in the other thread I saw that thing about the FE127e mods
using the 'hazardous waste' pattern named after somebody that I forgot. I'm wondering how that worked out and how it could be duplicated accurately with precision. IOW no jaggy lines or or other things that would make the 127 look crappy.
Can you give pics for that?
[I'm already wondering if the mod podge is getting hard in there after opening.]
loninappleton said:
Officially called a trifoil. I am now on my secound pattern template... the 1st was 3 circles of appropriate diameter mounted on the ends of a plastic solder spool with the ends cut off. the new one is carefully cut out of a dead FE127 cone *now that i have another dead cone, i need to make another and see if i can use the old one to figure out how to fraw a "flat bersion that can be printed and then folded up.
I use a skinny brush and the template to put 3 small dots per stroke, and then use those spots as a guide for brushing in the pattern. With over 300 under my belt iy isn't as terrifying as whem i did the 1st ones.
dave
FWIW, there may be other methods, but 2 guaranteed to smoke the voice coils on the FE126/127 are :
1)short out the B+ rail of mini-aleph power amp to speaker output ( no great noise, just a nice amber glow for less than a minute then dead silence, and the smell isn't as bad as the Chernobyled power transformer in an old Scott 222 amp)
2) forget to disconnect the speakers when switching inputs (multiple times!) on gain clone amp with no mute circuit - now that will generally make enough noise to be heard even in a room full of yapping DIYers.
the names have been redacted to protect the guilty, but they know who they are.
1)short out the B+ rail of mini-aleph power amp to speaker output ( no great noise, just a nice amber glow for less than a minute then dead silence, and the smell isn't as bad as the Chernobyled power transformer in an old Scott 222 amp)
2) forget to disconnect the speakers when switching inputs (multiple times!) on gain clone amp with no mute circuit - now that will generally make enough noise to be heard even in a room full of yapping DIYers.
the names have been redacted to protect the guilty, but they know who they are.
Second experiment. Please redirect if you think it belongs in the
mod podge thread.
I thinned out a little mod podge puzzle coat and put it on over
a coat of Damar on a Pioneer with a couple of basket legs cut out.
The second one I did had much less of a brush pattern but you can still see it.
I was thinking up there of Mamboni triangles but I doubt that I'd mess with that.
The treatment (not Enabl) that I was remembering (and possibly erroneously) was a partial pattern in 3 segments which would look like one of those hazardous or radiation waste signs-- three equidistant patterns radiating from the cone. I have no picture and I couldn't find any.
That BIB with only a bit of stuffing in the peak and at the base is still sounding pretty good. Just Damar on the one in there.
If I use one of these other ones with these advanced mods I wonder if the mid will come even more forward?
mod podge thread.
I thinned out a little mod podge puzzle coat and put it on over
a coat of Damar on a Pioneer with a couple of basket legs cut out.
The second one I did had much less of a brush pattern but you can still see it.
I was thinking up there of Mamboni triangles but I doubt that I'd mess with that.
The treatment (not Enabl) that I was remembering (and possibly erroneously) was a partial pattern in 3 segments which would look like one of those hazardous or radiation waste signs-- three equidistant patterns radiating from the cone. I have no picture and I couldn't find any.
That BIB with only a bit of stuffing in the peak and at the base is still sounding pretty good. Just Damar on the one in there.
If I use one of these other ones with these advanced mods I wonder if the mid will come even more forward?
Inverted BiB question...
Hi guys,
I have a question, please, about some inverted BiBs I'd like to build for a pair of Tang Band W4-1320SB drivers.
I was just wondering how to 'let the sound out'
if the cabinets are inverted?
I've searched this thread and found a note from Scottmoose (on his spreadsheet calculator) that says...
Can anyone advise of how much should be cut away? Should I increase the height (line length) on the cabinet to compensate once the 45degree section is removed?
Any advice, measurements, images or sketches much appreciated!
Thanks,
Steve
Hi guys,
I have a question, please, about some inverted BiBs I'd like to build for a pair of Tang Band W4-1320SB drivers.
I was just wondering how to 'let the sound out'
if the cabinets are inverted?I've searched this thread and found a note from Scottmoose (on his spreadsheet calculator) that says...
Can anyone advise of how much should be cut away? Should I increase the height (line length) on the cabinet to compensate once the 45degree section is removed?
Any advice, measurements, images or sketches much appreciated!
Thanks,
Steve
Stuffing a BIB
with all the DIY'ers who've built the BIB, surely someone has lined the peak instead of stuffing.....Maybe?
Would lining the partition behind the driver, and one side to the peak give similar results to lightly stuffing above the driver?
By lining, I refer to an open cell foam material, glued to the partition from behind and just below the driver to the peak, along with one side from above the driver to the peak. Thinking of using .5" carpet padding, or upholstery foam. with spray glue...
I'm looking for an alternative to stuffing, as I plan to build a straight horn like Gychang did. Seems to me you'd have less chance of your stuffing migrating if it was glued to the inside of the walls. I'm using the Dayton RS100-4 in an 84" line, 1/2" white pine ply ( haven't found any voids in this stuff, yet ), Outside dimensions 5.5" X 7" at the mouth, with a .416 driver offset of ~35". Plan is to smooth airflow with ductseal behind driver, and put a felt sock on the magnet. Adding an oval suprabaffle.
Used the Godzilla spread sheet, rounded up to the nearest 1/4"
Comments?
John
with all the DIY'ers who've built the BIB, surely someone has lined the peak instead of stuffing.....Maybe?
Would lining the partition behind the driver, and one side to the peak give similar results to lightly stuffing above the driver?
By lining, I refer to an open cell foam material, glued to the partition from behind and just below the driver to the peak, along with one side from above the driver to the peak. Thinking of using .5" carpet padding, or upholstery foam. with spray glue...
I'm looking for an alternative to stuffing, as I plan to build a straight horn like Gychang did. Seems to me you'd have less chance of your stuffing migrating if it was glued to the inside of the walls. I'm using the Dayton RS100-4 in an 84" line, 1/2" white pine ply ( haven't found any voids in this stuff, yet ), Outside dimensions 5.5" X 7" at the mouth, with a .416 driver offset of ~35". Plan is to smooth airflow with ductseal behind driver, and put a felt sock on the magnet. Adding an oval suprabaffle.
Used the Godzilla spread sheet, rounded up to the nearest 1/4"
Comments?
John
Re: Inverted BiB question...
Umm, 45 deg worth, i.e. draw 45 deg angles on the sides beginning at the bottom front. Alternately, you can always space up the full size pipe off a nice rigid/massive plinth or you can make a series of slots or wavy cuts as TC did around the terminus perimeter whose area = Sm. Let your imagination run amuck, there's lots of creative flexibility here.
Don't see why you should, but it won't hurt to add some if the driver's not high enough.
GM
Dr.X said:
Umm, 45 deg worth, i.e. draw 45 deg angles on the sides beginning at the bottom front. Alternately, you can always space up the full size pipe off a nice rigid/massive plinth or you can make a series of slots or wavy cuts as TC did around the terminus perimeter whose area = Sm. Let your imagination run amuck, there's lots of creative flexibility here.
Don't see why you should, but it won't hurt to add some if the driver's not high enough.
GM
Re: Stuffing a BIB
If total stuffing density is the same, but I imagine it would take considerable testing to find accurate density ratios from such diverse products as open cell foam, polyfil, the various fiberglass insulation choices, etc. and why we typically say 'stuff (damp) to suit', especially since its sonic effects are such a personal preference.
An alternative would be filling the peak with glued in triangular wedges of 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation, then lining any parallel walls with it down to at least below the driver.
GM
mightym said:
If total stuffing density is the same, but I imagine it would take considerable testing to find accurate density ratios from such diverse products as open cell foam, polyfil, the various fiberglass insulation choices, etc. and why we typically say 'stuff (damp) to suit', especially since its sonic effects are such a personal preference.
An alternative would be filling the peak with glued in triangular wedges of 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation, then lining any parallel walls with it down to at least below the driver.
GM
>>> By lining, I refer to an open cell foam material, glued to the partition from behind and just below the driver to the peak, along with one side from above the driver to the peak. Thinking of using .5" carpet padding, or upholstery foam. with spray glue...
I see no reason why this shouldn't work perfectly fine. Remember one of the reasons for the stuffing is to reduce the amount of midrange coming from the top of the BIBs opening. Just as GM said 'stuff to suit' you will have to play around with the stuffing material. But what you plan to do sounds like a good start and if you have to add more than just add more. Or you can do a combination of stuffing materials using your open cell foam along with acoustastuff or something similar. I'm sure you will be able to find the right solution and get great results. My BIBs sounded great in one room stuffed one way but when i moved them the amount of stuffing needed to be reduced for best results. Have fun with the process and enjoy the music!
Godzilla
I see no reason why this shouldn't work perfectly fine. Remember one of the reasons for the stuffing is to reduce the amount of midrange coming from the top of the BIBs opening. Just as GM said 'stuff to suit' you will have to play around with the stuffing material. But what you plan to do sounds like a good start and if you have to add more than just add more. Or you can do a combination of stuffing materials using your open cell foam along with acoustastuff or something similar. I'm sure you will be able to find the right solution and get great results. My BIBs sounded great in one room stuffed one way but when i moved them the amount of stuffing needed to be reduced for best results. Have fun with the process and enjoy the music!
Godzilla