First of all, hello to everyone.
I'm not new to speakers, but all things considered my knowledge about them is pretty limited when it comes to designing my own proper enclosure.
I registered today specifically to ask to OP about hi sdesign back in 2006, specifically this one:
http://coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_TL_for_TB.pdf
As I am learning, it's best to learn from what has already been done. I intend on putting these up in my small living room, as a replacement for my TV speakers, and for general music listening.
I will follow the internal dimensions of the speakers completely, but I will be using the W3-315E. Would I need to change the dimensions at all or can I just stick it in? Also can I move the speakers higher up? I'm still learning what makes quarter-wave enclosures tick, so excuse my ignorance. Please advise.
I'm not new to speakers, but all things considered my knowledge about them is pretty limited when it comes to designing my own proper enclosure.
I registered today specifically to ask to OP about hi sdesign back in 2006, specifically this one:
http://coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_TL_for_TB.pdf
As I am learning, it's best to learn from what has already been done. I intend on putting these up in my small living room, as a replacement for my TV speakers, and for general music listening.
I will follow the internal dimensions of the speakers completely, but I will be using the W3-315E. Would I need to change the dimensions at all or can I just stick it in? Also can I move the speakers higher up? I'm still learning what makes quarter-wave enclosures tick, so excuse my ignorance. Please advise.
Sorry, I couldn't find the edit button, if there is any.First of all, hello to everyone.
I'm not new to speakers, but all things considered my knowledge about them is pretty limited when it comes to designing my own proper enclosure.
I registered today specifically to ask to OP about hi sdesign back in 2006, specifically this one:
http://coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_TL_for_TB.pdf
As I am learning, it's best to learn from what has already been done. I intend on putting these up in my small living room, as a replacement for my TV speakers, and for general music listening.
I will follow the internal dimensions of the speakers completely, but I will be using the W3-315E. Would I need to change the dimensions at all or can I just stick it in? Also can I move the speakers higher up? I'm still learning what makes quarter-wave enclosures tick, so excuse my ignorance. Please advise.
Also I want to ask, what if I were to put 4 inch drivers like the W4-1320SJF? They're pretty similar to the W4-1320SA, and from one I see in the earlier posts one of you seem to get good results from it.
So far I have 3D renderings of what I want it to look like. Well it's not exactly how I want them to look like as I can't find the right wood in CATIA. To match the rest of the house I'm thinking of using 1 inch thick rubberwood (with a clear or light coloured glossy finish) for the centre bits, and then 18mm plywood for the rest, varnished (or any other durable and glossy finish, but not lacquer) with a dark stain.
It'll be made for my parents as a gift for their anniversary. What do you think?
It'll be made for my parents as a gift for their anniversary. What do you think?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Yes
After the first design I got questions about moving the driver upwards, and the simulation with MJK models shows that moving the driver is working fine, there is very little difference if any.
A few tips:
With the 4" you could test with less stuffing (70g). Personally I prefer the original stuffing with the 4".
Baffle Step Circuit. Some like the speaker without the filter, some people (like me) use the filter. It depends on placement of the speaker, listening distance and personal taste. Anyway, the filter is a minor adjustment to the balance of the sound.
Hi from
Bjørn
After the first design I got questions about moving the driver upwards, and the simulation with MJK models shows that moving the driver is working fine, there is very little difference if any.
A few tips:
With the 4" you could test with less stuffing (70g). Personally I prefer the original stuffing with the 4".
Baffle Step Circuit. Some like the speaker without the filter, some people (like me) use the filter. It depends on placement of the speaker, listening distance and personal taste. Anyway, the filter is a minor adjustment to the balance of the sound.
Hi from
Bjørn
For headphones I like my sound to have a mild V-shape freq response, I don't know how that translates into speakers. Anyway, I will decide whether I'd opt for the BSC or not depending on how they'd react with the room.
Any good substitute for stuffings that audiophiles are used to?
Before I forget, thank you sir Bjorn for the excellent speaker plan. I'd be lost without it, and now I know which direction I'm going for my future builds.
(Oh hey, there's the edit button. )
Any good substitute for stuffings that audiophiles are used to?
Before I forget, thank you sir Bjorn for the excellent speaker plan. I'd be lost without it, and now I know which direction I'm going for my future builds.
(Oh hey, there's the edit button.
)
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The way to design a bigger one and 'cheat' by not using a MLTL simulation is to use the Accidental MLTL approach. Do a search on that thread and it explains how with an example for a 8 in Tabaq that ended up almost matching the dimensions suggested by a sim that Bjohanessen did. It requires a moderate to high Qts driver to work though. A low Qts driver cannot be done this way.
Alternatively, pick a driver you want to use and ask nicely here and maybe Bjohanessen will do a sim for you.
Alternatively, pick a driver you want to use and ask nicely here and maybe Bjohanessen will do a sim for you.
I was looking at the Alpair 7.3 recently. I am aware it was simmed in the original tabaq box, working well. But it hit my mind t doesn´t do deeper than the others. In theory the Alpair works down to 45 Hz. Would that be possible to extend with the tabaq tuned deeper? If yes, how to tune the box?
The way to design a bigger one and 'cheat' by not using a MLTL simulation is to use the Accidental MLTL approach. Do a search on that thread and it explains how with an example for a 8 in Tabaq that ended up almost matching the dimensions suggested by a sim that Bjohanessen did. It requires a moderate to high Qts driver to work though. A low Qts driver cannot be done this way.
Alternatively, pick a driver you want to use and ask nicely here and maybe Bjohanessen will do a sim for you.
Thanks for that Accidental MLTL tip, this is great! I've found the thread, and I see people also use Hornresp and have good results come out of it as well. I'll stick to my own research first, building off existing plans using similar-specced drivers, before bothering Mr. Bjorn.
I have found an instructables for a WIBAQ using Betsy-K drivers too (which apparently was based on the TABAQ of Bjorn). Imagine if I have 4 of those as an HT system. It would be nice to have a testing rig set up too I think, to look at what kind of output it's producing rather than relying on the ears. But that's for a later project and greater funding. Again, thanks.
On the second thought I should rephrase my question in regards of the Mark Audio CHR-70. It matches my wallet better.
But question is the same, could it be tuned for this?
Maybe a MAQ version for CHR-70?
I am sure many want to try that with the nice price point.
(of course the enclosure need to be widen a bit for mounting, but what else?)
Bjohanessen can give you his opinion on chr70 but my sims shows it will work quite well in standard Tabaq as designed. If you want more bass extension make vent length adjustable and play with that. Otherwise design it with AMLTL - the chr70 has moderate Qts so works well with AMLTL methodology. Otherwise wait for Bjohanessen to sim it for you.
What is it that usually varies when designing a TABAQ? With bigger drivers do you usually go wider, thicker, taller, or all three? If I understand correctly the ideal transmission line will be a tube with the same surface area as the driver, and with length that corresponds to whatever frequency you wish for it to resonate. What makes it a bit more difficult is I think it's best to have the driver not at the end of the tube but at an offset.
I tried modelling this with Hornresp with a 2 section Offset Driver configuration and cylindrical horn (same surface area the entire length), with S1 the same as cone area, and playing around with the lengths. I got some interesting results, though I doubt it's as accurate as the MJK sim, but it gives an idea. I don't have any idea what to put for the other parametres though, like Vtc and Atc, and I jut let Vrc and Lrc 0 as if simulating back loaded horn. I tried modelling Bjohanssen design. It got the bass somewhat correct but the rest of the frequency seems odd.
I think if I have a frequency response measuring rig, I can model a design with Hornresp, build one experimental enclosure for cheap, then compare the result to the one that's modelled see how far it deviates. Some trial and error can probably work.
I tried modelling this with Hornresp with a 2 section Offset Driver configuration and cylindrical horn (same surface area the entire length), with S1 the same as cone area, and playing around with the lengths. I got some interesting results, though I doubt it's as accurate as the MJK sim, but it gives an idea. I don't have any idea what to put for the other parametres though, like Vtc and Atc, and I jut let Vrc and Lrc 0 as if simulating back loaded horn. I tried modelling Bjohanssen design. It got the bass somewhat correct but the rest of the frequency seems odd.
I think if I have a frequency response measuring rig, I can model a design with Hornresp, build one experimental enclosure for cheap, then compare the result to the one that's modelled see how far it deviates. Some trial and error can probably work.
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