Reading through the thread, I believe an inductor with 1mm2 wire seems to be recommended but the one in the pictures of Björns original tutorial might be a smaller gauge.
I find it strange that there is no recommendation for this as I would expect the gauge of wire (thus resistance of the inductor) would affect the balance between the resistor and inductor.
I will be using a 4W MOX resistor. I guess that should be sufficient for the modest speaker it will be paired with.
The salesman at the parts store told me their 4W resistors sound better than their 10W. Not sure if that's true but when something cheaper is said to be better by a salesman, I tend to believe it.
I find it strange that there is no recommendation for this as I would expect the gauge of wire (thus resistance of the inductor) would affect the balance between the resistor and inductor.
I will be using a 4W MOX resistor. I guess that should be sufficient for the modest speaker it will be paired with.
The salesman at the parts store told me their 4W resistors sound better than their 10W. Not sure if that's true but when something cheaper is said to be better by a salesman, I tend to believe it.
Is any offset between 0 and 2" above the original position good?
I have my pannels cut to size but I just found out that I have the driver hole 4cm higher than original instead of the recommended 5cm or 2". I double checked all dimensions before sawing except this one.
I guess it will be ok but I am not sure if the recommended offset is another "sweetspot" and anything in between should be avoided. (I am an acoustic nitwit).
OK, so after using different amps for my TABAQ TL I settled on using a DIY Class D that I finished about 1-1/2 weeks ago (you can find the info HERE ON POST 855). I had tried them with my CJ MV75 with KT90's (too much power), and with my Dayton DTA-1 T-Amp (nice sound, but lacks punch, main use was PC audio). But, when using them with my DIY amp, they sounded wonderful, the speakers came alive, I could play them at decent volume without fear of overexcursion of the drivers, a problem with my CJ MV75. Very nice combination and very nice sound, I was pleasantly surprised.
Here is the deal, see I have a situation...If 99 women and 1 man are raffled, you can take to the bank the fact that I will win the man. So, since all good things have to come to an end quickly for me yesterday at around 5:15 PM there was a 5.7 earthquake, which lasted about 10 secs. Nothing major, actually I hardly felt it, except for things moving in my house. Among those things moving were my speakers, including the TABAQ, and one of the TABAQ tumbled and hit flat on its side the ceramic tile floor. When I pick it up I heard a solid object moving inside the enclosure, after looking thru the vent I could see a round black metal object, 99.9% sure that a magnet from the TB W3-881SIF 3" driver came loose.
As to not loose much time, please, advise what other 3" FR Drivers in a price range of USD$10.00 to $25.00 each I can use that sound very nice in the TABAQ enclosure.
Here is the deal, see I have a situation...If 99 women and 1 man are raffled, you can take to the bank the fact that I will win the man. So, since all good things have to come to an end quickly for me yesterday at around 5:15 PM there was a 5.7 earthquake, which lasted about 10 secs. Nothing major, actually I hardly felt it, except for things moving in my house. Among those things moving were my speakers, including the TABAQ, and one of the TABAQ tumbled and hit flat on its side the ceramic tile floor. When I pick it up I heard a solid object moving inside the enclosure, after looking thru the vent I could see a round black metal object, 99.9% sure that a magnet from the TB W3-881SIF 3" driver came loose.
As to not loose much time, please, advise what other 3" FR Drivers in a price range of USD$10.00 to $25.00 each I can use that sound very nice in the TABAQ enclosure.
Easy: Vifa TC9FD $12 at Parts Express.
Sorry to hear about the unfortunate demise of the TB via earthquake.
That was going to be my go to driver, but wanted to check if there was maybe something else appropriate for the service. I have a pair of those in a set of uOnkens in my office, I will order another pair...Thanks! Do I need to build a filter, or straight works fine? Also, need to adjust the amount of fill, or basically the same weight as per the building specs?
I find that a 1mH + 10 ohm resistor works well. You can try 5 ohms if you like it brighter. Also optional is a 0.47uF in parallel with inductor and resistor to add more highs on top. You just have to play with stuffing.
I find that a 1mH + 10 ohm resistor works well. You can try 5 ohms if you like it brighter. Also optional is a 0.47uF in parallel with inductor and resistor to add more highs on top. You just have to play with stuffing.
Thanks for the information...I don't like too bright, prefer airy highs that seem to float, found that brightness takes away from that. The 0.47uF cap I will try along with the 10 Ohms resistor. Again, thanks for the information.
Thanks for your advise, I was using mine without any filter and was happy with how it sounded, your suggestion and XRK's suggestions give me something to play with and keep me entertained. I cannot stress how good your design sounds with the proper amplification.
I finished my Tabaq speakers yesterday.
The workmanship (woodworking, painting and soldering) could have been better. However, I am very pleased with the sound, especially after a few hours of running and listening to some of my favourite cd's.
A big thank you to Bjørn and everyone who contributed to this thread!
The workmanship (woodworking, painting and soldering) could have been better. However, I am very pleased with the sound, especially after a few hours of running and listening to some of my favourite cd's.
A big thank you to Bjørn and everyone who contributed to this thread!
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