Hi Malefoda
Thanks. Well so far so good. It runs quite cool now in winter weather but will heat up in summer weather. I've measured up to 55 degrees but that was with outside temperatures above 30 degree's and only fans in the house.
Your right about that rectifier heating up. I never noticed that before. I should remove mine now that I have it cased.
Thanks. Well so far so good. It runs quite cool now in winter weather but will heat up in summer weather. I've measured up to 55 degrees but that was with outside temperatures above 30 degree's and only fans in the house.
Your right about that rectifier heating up. I never noticed that before. I should remove mine now that I have it cased.
On/Off thumping and Speaker Protection board
I was trying to get rid of on/off popping sound using a relay (normally closed) connecting the mute and the 5V terminals and a simple RC delay constant before the relay but gave up the idea after realizing that the popping occurs even when "de-muting" and popping at off won't be resolved in this way.
So I have decided to use one of those "off-the-shelf" speaker protection boards from Ebay...something like this one here: BTL/Stereo Speaker Protector Board Dual Relay + uPC1237 - eBay (item 120690137764 end time Mar-27-11 21:32:22 PDT)
But I am all confused about how to connect it up. Do I need two of them? One for the left channel and the other for the right channel? Or Is a single board enough? What do I supply to those three power input blocks? I don't have AC 22-32V as I am powering my amp with a MeanWell PSU. I tried to understand the diagram including UPC1237 data sheet, but it's all beyond my capability. I would be very grateful if someone can kindly show me how to wire them up together .... maybe with some picture
BTW, I do have a DC-to-DC step down regulator converting the DC from the MeanWell to 12VDC for running a fan and a LED if that makes any difference to how I should I wire it up.
I was trying to get rid of on/off popping sound using a relay (normally closed) connecting the mute and the 5V terminals and a simple RC delay constant before the relay but gave up the idea after realizing that the popping occurs even when "de-muting" and popping at off won't be resolved in this way.
So I have decided to use one of those "off-the-shelf" speaker protection boards from Ebay...something like this one here: BTL/Stereo Speaker Protector Board Dual Relay + uPC1237 - eBay (item 120690137764 end time Mar-27-11 21:32:22 PDT)
But I am all confused about how to connect it up. Do I need two of them? One for the left channel and the other for the right channel? Or Is a single board enough? What do I supply to those three power input blocks? I don't have AC 22-32V as I am powering my amp with a MeanWell PSU. I tried to understand the diagram including UPC1237 data sheet, but it's all beyond my capability. I would be very grateful if someone can kindly show me how to wire them up together .... maybe with some picture
BTW, I do have a DC-to-DC step down regulator converting the DC from the MeanWell to 12VDC for running a fan and a LED if that makes any difference to how I should I wire it up.
8 X Copper Heat Sink For DDR DDR2 DDR3 RAM Memory RHS03 en vente sur eBay.fr (fin le 13-mars-11 04:52:06 Paris)
Anyone would fit that on the hot/lower value coils?
Will it interact with core a bit or not? It's cheap enough to avoid heating.
Anyone would fit that on the hot/lower value coils?
Will it interact with core a bit or not? It's cheap enough to avoid heating.
Why can I not edit my message now?! There used to be an edit button...?!
Well anyway I wanted to add the poor Chinese underpaid workers indeed, often working with no health insurance and bad conditions...
But ok, you got a point on most persons are not equipped or capable to assemble an SMD board themselves. But many are soldering the crap out of these ebay boards with their mods, then I have to repeat myself that modding an already assembled board is more than twice the work of building it right straight off, and there's an enormous risk of damaging the board. Plus I find the assembling process a lot of fun and a great learning experience!
A bit sad you seems having pleasure on other's ghetto amp mods. Maybe just some gauche reaction to the fact you do not like technique not up to the state of the art? Cool down and focus on tech for our sake.
If I can afford a Trupath I will. That's not possible, got that TK2050 for less than 24€, even if the TP2050 wastes some power in heat, that's bad I know. I've tune my carburator mixture, that is doing far much for earth than cure the power wasted on the TK2050.
About China, how long you lived there? And how long you roamed around Europe?
In China I've lived in workers domitory and later in a mid-class familly. They all there have a more easy life and for the mid-class people more money than me. But yes they are not looking fo the same in life as most of us.
In France the minimum income, wich is the one of most workers, is under the poverty level. I've no TV, my 1982 car will be very hard to change the day it will fail. As for health insurance, stop reading Club Mickey Mouse's newspaper. Like me many french don't do much medecine because we have to pay most of it unless we afford a private complementary insurance.
I am capable of soldering SMD (ever overclocked a laptop? that is tiny, not these amps). I just can't afford.
Sorry for being out of topic, but I don't like judgements from anyone else than judges or God. Especially inquisitorially ones based on "bars opinions".
Foil
Those should help. I bent in half and glued a 4x1 inch strip of copper foil to each coil with Arctic Alumina.
Those should help. I bent in half and glued a 4x1 inch strip of copper foil to each coil with Arctic Alumina.
Speaker protection
Speaker protection is tricky with these amps because each leg has 1/2 the supply voltage as dc when measured to ground. Both legs are trimmed to exactly the same voltage so there is no dc between the speaker terminals but there is when measured to ground. In order to set up a loudspeaker protection relay you need to power it with it's own floating power supply and make a center tap across the amp's power supply with two 1/4 watt resistors and a trimmer. Adjust the trimmer to get the center tap to match the dc of one leg of the amp output and tie this to ground of the protection circuit. The sense connection can then go to one speaker terminal as normal.
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Speaker protection is tricky with these amps because each leg has 1/2 the supply voltage as dc when measured to ground. Both legs are trimmed to exactly the same voltage so there is no dc between the speaker terminals but there is when measured to ground. In order to set up a loudspeaker protection relay you need to power it with it's own floating power supply and make a center tap across the amp's power supply with two 1/4 watt resistors and a trimmer. Adjust the trimmer to get the center tap to match the dc of one leg of the amp output and tie this to ground of the protection circuit. The sense connection can then go to one speaker terminal as normal.
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I was trying to get rid of on/off popping sound using a relay (normally closed) connecting the mute and the 5V terminals and a simple RC delay constant before the relay but gave up the idea after realizing that the popping occurs even when "de-muting" and popping at off won't be resolved in this way.
So I have decided to use one of those "off-the-shelf" speaker protection boards from Ebay...something like this one here: BTL/Stereo Speaker Protector Board Dual Relay + uPC1237 - eBay (item 120690137764 end time Mar-27-11 21:32:22 PDT)
But I am all confused about how to connect it up. Do I need two of them? One for the left channel and the other for the right channel? Or Is a single board enough? What do I supply to those three power input blocks? I don't have AC 22-32V as I am powering my amp with a MeanWell PSU. I tried to understand the diagram including UPC1237 data sheet, but it's all beyond my capability. I would be very grateful if someone can kindly show me how to wire them up together .... maybe with some picture
BTW, I do have a DC-to-DC step down regulator converting the DC from the MeanWell to 12VDC for running a fan and a LED if that makes any difference to how I should I wire it up.
On/Off thumping and Speaker Protection board
Before anything, A Big Salute to you, Scott, for your excellent modding tips, especially on the output section.
I wish I could understand what you are saying, but sadly, my head is spinning even more. I hope you will be patient with my questions below:
Am I getting you correctly if I understand that need for the virtual center tap is to create a ground reference for the bridged output of the amp? The reason I was looking at the particular item that I posted a link to on Ebay in my previous post is that it has the word "BTL" in its description although I have no idea how it works.
Is it a must that I need to power the protection circuit with its own floating power supply, not from my existing MeanWell which powers the amp? What if I am not concerned much about Speaker Protection, but just want to get rid of popping sound both during turn-on and turn-off? Do I need still need to power it from a separate power supply?
Finally, do I need to send both + and - output (of one channel) from the amp through the relay and then to the speaker? Or do I send + signal through the relay only, and connect - signal directly to the speaker?
Thanks a lot for your patience and kind help in advance!
Before anything, A Big Salute to you, Scott, for your excellent modding tips, especially on the output section.
I wish I could understand what you are saying, but sadly, my head is spinning even more. I hope you will be patient with my questions below:
Am I getting you correctly if I understand that need for the virtual center tap is to create a ground reference for the bridged output of the amp? The reason I was looking at the particular item that I posted a link to on Ebay in my previous post is that it has the word "BTL" in its description although I have no idea how it works.
Is it a must that I need to power the protection circuit with its own floating power supply, not from my existing MeanWell which powers the amp? What if I am not concerned much about Speaker Protection, but just want to get rid of popping sound both during turn-on and turn-off? Do I need still need to power it from a separate power supply?
Finally, do I need to send both + and - output (of one channel) from the amp through the relay and then to the speaker? Or do I send + signal through the relay only, and connect - signal directly to the speaker?
Thanks a lot for your patience and kind help in advance!
protection
The protection is the tricky part because you are trying to sense a reletive change in dc from something which already has 15v dc on it. I agree that I am more concerned with the turn on thump through my tweeters than protecting against an output device failure. Just hooking up the turn on delay and ignoring the sensing is easy and could be powered from the amp's supply through a simple fixed voltage regulator. This won't eliminate any turn off thumps though as the amp will thump before the relay looses power so this is another reason to set up the protection board with it's own power supply which will drain down before the amp's. You can connect just one of the speaker outputs through the relay. If you unplug either one of the speaker wires, the sound stops. I would consider buying your protection modules from Connexelectronics as Cristi gives excellent support on his vendors forum and will answer all of your questions as to how to best hook it up.
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Connexelectronic
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The protection is the tricky part because you are trying to sense a reletive change in dc from something which already has 15v dc on it. I agree that I am more concerned with the turn on thump through my tweeters than protecting against an output device failure. Just hooking up the turn on delay and ignoring the sensing is easy and could be powered from the amp's supply through a simple fixed voltage regulator. This won't eliminate any turn off thumps though as the amp will thump before the relay looses power so this is another reason to set up the protection board with it's own power supply which will drain down before the amp's. You can connect just one of the speaker outputs through the relay. If you unplug either one of the speaker wires, the sound stops. I would consider buying your protection modules from Connexelectronics as Cristi gives excellent support on his vendors forum and will answer all of your questions as to how to best hook it up.
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Connexelectronic
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Extra supply
It is not a big deal to install another small transformer just for the protection board such as this.
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Digi-Key - 567-1035-5-ND (Manufacturer - BV030-7329.0)
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With it's own supply, turn on, turn off and dc will be protected.
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It is not a big deal to install another small transformer just for the protection board such as this.
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Digi-Key - 567-1035-5-ND (Manufacturer - BV030-7329.0)
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With it's own supply, turn on, turn off and dc will be protected.
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On/Off thumping and Speaker Protection board
Thank you so much for your explanation and suggestions. I will surely check out the module from Connexelectronics.
Contributions from people like you in this forum in helping novice like me learn and enjoy more should not be taken lightly. I do appreciate a lot.
Thank you so much for your explanation and suggestions. I will surely check out the module from Connexelectronics.
Contributions from people like you in this forum in helping novice like me learn and enjoy more should not be taken lightly. I do appreciate a lot.
Supply question guys,
are the small holes copper pipes to the other side of the PCB?
If yes that means the sets of 3 tank caps are close to the TP2050s at the coil side... so what are those tiny film caps are doing at the other end?
I find more wise to remove them but try to add 0.1µF at each IC's supply pins. They saved on caps by using a single 1µF cap at each TP2050, and power traces are no more added a load of solder.
are the small holes copper pipes to the other side of the PCB?
If yes that means the sets of 3 tank caps are close to the TP2050s at the coil side... so what are those tiny film caps are doing at the other end?
I find more wise to remove them but try to add 0.1µF at each IC's supply pins. They saved on caps by using a single 1µF cap at each TP2050, and power traces are no more added a load of solder.
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