Hi all!
I recently ordered a 4x100W TK2050 TP2050 Tripath amp from Sure and I am considering which power supply to use. I will power two fairly small speakers with high sensitivity (thus easily driven). I'm sorry if this issue has been discussed somewhere in the thread.
I have a few alternatives. My old HarmanKardon HK630 started to malfunction and I think I could use its powersupply. It's a large core transformer (I think it's the right term, looks like this: http://shop.rabtron.co.za/catalog/images/audio-transformer-50w.jpg, although not exactly the same) but I would have to find out about voltage etc.
The second alternative is a 15V 4A transformer (looks like this: http://img.archiwumallegro.pl/?700649234) from a set of Creative computer speakers. Weighs about a kilo and seems pretty solid.
As a third alternative I think I have a laptop charger rated to something like 19V 65W.
None of them is ideal I guess, but I hope something will do.
What I care about most is that it will work, sound good and be cheap.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
I recently ordered a 4x100W TK2050 TP2050 Tripath amp from Sure and I am considering which power supply to use. I will power two fairly small speakers with high sensitivity (thus easily driven). I'm sorry if this issue has been discussed somewhere in the thread.
I have a few alternatives. My old HarmanKardon HK630 started to malfunction and I think I could use its powersupply. It's a large core transformer (I think it's the right term, looks like this: http://shop.rabtron.co.za/catalog/images/audio-transformer-50w.jpg, although not exactly the same) but I would have to find out about voltage etc.
The second alternative is a 15V 4A transformer (looks like this: http://img.archiwumallegro.pl/?700649234) from a set of Creative computer speakers. Weighs about a kilo and seems pretty solid.
As a third alternative I think I have a laptop charger rated to something like 19V 65W.
None of them is ideal I guess, but I hope something will do.
What I care about most is that it will work, sound good and be cheap.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Link
They don't actually have any of the new 300W amps in stock yet.
.
2 X 300Watt Class-D Audio Amplifier Board - TAS5630_Audio Amplifier Boards_Audio Amplifier and other Audio Boards_Audio, Video Equipments_Sure Electronics' Webstore
.
They don't actually have any of the new 300W amps in stock yet.
.
2 X 300Watt Class-D Audio Amplifier Board - TAS5630_Audio Amplifier Boards_Audio Amplifier and other Audio Boards_Audio, Video Equipments_Sure Electronics' Webstore
.
Many of us use an amp by speakers:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...path-board-tc2000-tp2050-108.html#post2108368
As for PSU and more:
Amplifier:Sure Electronics TK2050 2x100W - Modification - diyAudio
Do like NuForce: use 80% of the case for a SMPS!
6moons audioreviews: NuForce Reference 9
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...path-board-tc2000-tp2050-108.html#post2108368
As for PSU and more:
Amplifier:Sure Electronics TK2050 2x100W - Modification - diyAudio
Do like NuForce: use 80% of the case for a SMPS!
6moons audioreviews: NuForce Reference 9
Hi,
I'm thinking of trying the 2x100 module to drive a pair of Magnepan MC1's
used for surrounds. Can this module handle drops below 4ohm loads?
I also have a 25V Avel toroid, plan to use it with a aleph psu board CC-RC.
Since it has FWB, the output voltage probably will be around 34-35VDC,
do I need to drop it down more to be safe since the onboard caps are 35VDC.
What would be the best way to lower the voltage slightly? higher R value?
was planing to use the stock value of .47R x5 per rail.
Thanks.
I'm thinking of trying the 2x100 module to drive a pair of Magnepan MC1's
used for surrounds. Can this module handle drops below 4ohm loads?
I also have a 25V Avel toroid, plan to use it with a aleph psu board CC-RC.
Since it has FWB, the output voltage probably will be around 34-35VDC,
do I need to drop it down more to be safe since the onboard caps are 35VDC.
What would be the best way to lower the voltage slightly? higher R value?
was planing to use the stock value of .47R x5 per rail.
Thanks.
I'd take a Hifimediy or 41hz amp instead, they feature a different output stage chip that can handle a lot more current to drive low impedance loads. From experiences of a few friends of mine with Sure, Hifimediy and 41hz boards the last two run much cooler. The Sure even runs quite hot at moderate supply voltage and mild (8 ohm) speaker load.
The last two sell boards that can handle much higher voltage too, like the AMP11-HV from 41hz can handle up to 55Vdc! (starting at 9Vdc)
The last two sell boards that can handle much higher voltage too, like the AMP11-HV from 41hz can handle up to 55Vdc! (starting at 9Vdc)
Hi, guys.
I dropped out of the diy scene just before these Sure Electronic amps came out. Now I'm interested in getting one. It's been a couple of years since I've thought about modding or building anything.
I recall not too long ago there was a lower powered version of the TK2050 Sure Electronic amps. Now the only ones I see on ebay are 2*100 watts and 4*100 watts. Did they discontinue the lower power version (and did they even have a lower powered one, or am I remembering incorrectly)?
More importantly, which one sounds, or sounded, best with a mid to moderately high sensitivity speaker, like the Klipsch Heresy or F3? Out ouf the units I see on sale now, I'm inclined to go with the 2*100 to power both channels.
The F3 does have separate binding posts to separate the mid/high horn from the bass cones. Does the 2*100 allow both channels to be driven from one channel for setting up a monobloc arrangement? Or would using the 4*100 offer better sound somehow? Would it be good with just one 2*100 amp driving the whole rig?
I'm sure all the answers are in the thread. Over 200 pages, though! Thanks for your help! I'll slowly work though it, but if you can give me some leads right away, I'd much appreciate it!
KT
I dropped out of the diy scene just before these Sure Electronic amps came out. Now I'm interested in getting one. It's been a couple of years since I've thought about modding or building anything.
I recall not too long ago there was a lower powered version of the TK2050 Sure Electronic amps. Now the only ones I see on ebay are 2*100 watts and 4*100 watts. Did they discontinue the lower power version (and did they even have a lower powered one, or am I remembering incorrectly)?
More importantly, which one sounds, or sounded, best with a mid to moderately high sensitivity speaker, like the Klipsch Heresy or F3? Out ouf the units I see on sale now, I'm inclined to go with the 2*100 to power both channels.
The F3 does have separate binding posts to separate the mid/high horn from the bass cones. Does the 2*100 allow both channels to be driven from one channel for setting up a monobloc arrangement? Or would using the 4*100 offer better sound somehow? Would it be good with just one 2*100 amp driving the whole rig?
I'm sure all the answers are in the thread. Over 200 pages, though! Thanks for your help! I'll slowly work though it, but if you can give me some leads right away, I'd much appreciate it!
KT
First time poster, long time reader. I just built an amp around a Sure 4x100 TK2050 board, and overall I am pretty pleased with it. However, from the sources I am using it is just not loud enough (they don't have standard line-out levels, more like 2v). What can I do to add some gain to the inputs? Right now I have the board severely under powered with a 120 watt laptop supply, but even at full volume the thing keeps up (no clipping or distortion). I want to add a better power supply, but if I can't get more volume with the sources I am using, I don't see much of a point in feeding it more power. What would you guys recommend? I have thought about a tube buffer, op amp, and even just using a Boostaroo...
Dank
You could use a preamp eq like this..
NE5532 volume control board kit 10 times pre-amp DIY | eBay
And use a 27 volt power supply like this.
MW 27V DC 13A 351W Meanwell Switching Power Supply | eBay
John
You could use a preamp eq like this..
NE5532 volume control board kit 10 times pre-amp DIY | eBay
And use a 27 volt power supply like this.
MW 27V DC 13A 351W Meanwell Switching Power Supply | eBay
John
Greetings all,
I finally got around to hooking my Sure 2X100 amp board up using a 6 amp 19.5 v computer docking station PSU. It works flawlessly and even after many hours the chip didn't overheat and the fan didn't come on. I haven't had the chance to try it with a good preamp yet, and I'm using the volume control module that Sure sells for it. This is the first class D amp that I've owned or heard and after about 10 hours on the board I am less than overwhelmed with the sound. On some high quality speakers it sounds clear and clean, with no audible distortion, but the sound stage is flat, and the leading and trailing edges of notes don't sound real, sound chopped off. And in general it seems to be missing something, a lot of the subtle details are missing. For $44 I'm not complaining, but after all the buzz about the board being good stock, I'm wondering if the problem might be the PSU. I have read the thread about all of the modifications, but before I dive into them am wondering if a decent PSU should be the first thing I tackle.
PJN
PJN
I finally got around to hooking my Sure 2X100 amp board up using a 6 amp 19.5 v computer docking station PSU. It works flawlessly and even after many hours the chip didn't overheat and the fan didn't come on. I haven't had the chance to try it with a good preamp yet, and I'm using the volume control module that Sure sells for it. This is the first class D amp that I've owned or heard and after about 10 hours on the board I am less than overwhelmed with the sound. On some high quality speakers it sounds clear and clean, with no audible distortion, but the sound stage is flat, and the leading and trailing edges of notes don't sound real, sound chopped off. And in general it seems to be missing something, a lot of the subtle details are missing. For $44 I'm not complaining, but after all the buzz about the board being good stock, I'm wondering if the problem might be the PSU. I have read the thread about all of the modifications, but before I dive into them am wondering if a decent PSU should be the first thing I tackle.
PJN
PJN
Alright, I went ahead and bought a 24v 350 watt Mean Well power supply, and it has made a heck of a difference. The sound is much fuller, especially on the low end, and it is a bit louder. I am still toying with the idea of getting something to boost the input, and am seriously considering this
headphone amp.
What would you guys think about this? It should be an interesting change in the sound, from the rather sterile stock chip amp sound. I like this one because it can be run off of 24v DC straight from the Mean Well.
headphone amp.
What would you guys think about this? It should be an interesting change in the sound, from the rather sterile stock chip amp sound. I like this one because it can be run off of 24v DC straight from the Mean Well.
I removed the Sure volume control and tried a good class A preamp that I have. It made a big improvement, the Sure volume control really hurt the sound quality. Just for fun I compared it to a RevC chipamp, the RevC did beat it out convincingly, but the little $44 board did show a lot of potential. Now I'll feel better about spending my time upgrading things.
PJN
PJN
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.